1952gary Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 I have a 218 that will not start. This motor ran prior to restore but now it will not start. This problem has frustrated me for the past week. I went thru all the suggestions you gave to a previous problem. I had the oil pump out to replace the gaskets and the dist out to put in new points and condenser. Oil pan, waterpump, and head removed for new gaskets. I have checked the timing numerous times by following the steps in the previous posts. Plug wires are correct, TDC has been verified and plug wires checked. I have fuel to carb. I changed coil today and pulled #1 plug to verify spark. I did a compression check Number 1 and 6 are 85 to 90, #4 is at 65, the balance are between 70 and 75. New points set at 20 all plugs set at 35. The engine wants to start and sometimes runs for a few seconds then sputters and backfires thru the carb. Need some help as to other areas I can check for problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B1B Keven Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 If it's backfiring it's either lean, there's a vacuum leak or the timing is still messed up somehow. Have you tried pouring about a half of a cup of fuel down the carb. and then tried to start it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catfishcuz Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 Did you check that all the valves were operating and non were stuck when you had the head off. Butch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952gary Posted September 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 I put gas into the carb on several occassions until I flooded the engine. I did replace the fuel pump and rechecked the carb to ensure good fuel flow. The Vaccum leak is another area I will check today. The valves looked ok and did not appear stuck. Thanks for the suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 Have you checked the timing with a timing light yet? Or have you dont a static timing with the distributor? I've often times connected a timing light to a fresh engine to check and adjust the timing while cranking it over. If the timing is a few degrees off it can make for a hard starting engine, especially if it is to far retarded. Otherwise try turning the distributor slightly one way or the other while cranking to see if it'll fire better. Two things you need to have a running engine, gas through the carb and spark at the right time. Just ensuring that you have spark isn't good enough. It has to happen at the proper time or the engine won't run properly. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952gary Posted September 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 Problem may be solved. This morning I went thru all the steps again to ensure gas, spark, and timing was correct. I then pulled the dist cap off to give it a good check. Upon inspecting I found the carbon contact in the center was missing. It appears part of this has broken and does not make contact with the rotor. Ordered a new cap will see after 5pm if this fixes the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B1B Keven Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 Problem may be solved. This morning I went thru all the steps again to ensure gas, spark, and timing was correct. I then pulled the dist cap off to give it a good check. Upon inspecting I found the carbon contact in the center was missing. It appears part of this has broken and does not make contact with the rotor. Ordered a new cap will see after 5pm if this fixes the problem. I've done that also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 The ammeter on instrument panel will be a valuable aid in localizing defect in circuit which results in "no spark". A.No discharge-zero reading indicates that primary circuit is interrupted. B.Normal reading-needle oscillates between two and five amperes discharge while starter is cranking engine-indicates that primary circuit is complete-therefore checking should be confined to SECONDARY circuits. C.Abnormal discharge-more than two to four amperes-this condition is an indication that a "short" exists between the ammeter and the ignition coil or in event of a shorted primary winding in ignition coil,"short" may exist in distributor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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