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Engine wont start


1952gary

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I have a 218 that will not start. This motor ran prior to restore but now it will not start. This problem has frustrated me for the past week. I went thru all the suggestions you gave to a previous problem. I had the oil pump out to replace the gaskets and the dist out to put in new points and condenser. Oil pan, waterpump, and head removed for new gaskets. I have checked the timing numerous times by following the steps in the previous posts. Plug wires are correct, TDC has been verified and plug wires checked. I have fuel to carb. I changed coil today and pulled #1 plug to verify spark. I did a compression check Number 1 and 6 are 85 to 90, #4 is at 65, the balance are between 70 and 75. New points set at 20 all plugs set at 35. The engine wants to start and sometimes runs for a few seconds then sputters and backfires thru the carb. Need some help as to other areas I can check for problems.

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I put gas into the carb on several occassions until I flooded the engine. I did replace the fuel pump and rechecked the carb to ensure good fuel flow. The Vaccum leak is another area I will check today. The valves looked ok and did not appear stuck. Thanks for the suggestions.

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Have you checked the timing with a timing light yet? Or have you dont a static timing with the distributor? I've often times connected a timing light to a fresh engine to check and adjust the timing while cranking it over. If the timing is a few degrees off it can make for a hard starting engine, especially if it is to far retarded. Otherwise try turning the distributor slightly one way or the other while cranking to see if it'll fire better.

Two things you need to have a running engine, gas through the carb and spark at the right time. Just ensuring that you have spark isn't good enough. It has to happen at the proper time or the engine won't run properly.

Merle

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Problem may be solved. This morning I went thru all the steps again to ensure gas, spark, and timing was correct. I then pulled the dist cap off to give it a good check. Upon inspecting I found the carbon contact in the center was missing. It appears part of this has broken and does not make contact with the rotor. Ordered a new cap will see after 5pm if this fixes the problem.

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Problem may be solved. This morning I went thru all the steps again to ensure gas, spark, and timing was correct. I then pulled the dist cap off to give it a good check. Upon inspecting I found the carbon contact in the center was missing. It appears part of this has broken and does not make contact with the rotor. Ordered a new cap will see after 5pm if this fixes the problem.

I've done that also. :D

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The ammeter on instrument panel will be a valuable aid in localizing defect in circuit which results in "no spark".

A.No discharge-zero reading indicates that primary circuit is interrupted.

B.Normal reading-needle oscillates between two and five amperes discharge while starter is cranking engine-indicates that primary circuit is complete-therefore checking should be confined to SECONDARY circuits.

C.Abnormal discharge-more than two to four amperes-this condition is an indication that a "short" exists between the ammeter and the ignition coil or in event of a shorted primary winding in ignition coil,"short" may exist in distributor.:P

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