door panel material

[Standing Elk]

Where can I find a suitable material (past board type) to make my door panels out of. Thanks

[grey beard]

Howcy Mr. Elk,

I used ABS pameling from Lowes. It comes in 4 x 8 sheets and is white and of course is completely waterproof. One side is smooth and the other is pebble-grained. I painted mine brown with Krylon plastic paint. Now it is easy to touch up if it ever gets camaged. Mine has been in use for about three years.

The original stuff was pasteboard, ancd deteriorated rapidly due to moisture. The headliners sagged ancd the trim panels wore through at the latch handles and window cranks. This stuff is easy to use and looks nice when finished. I put door edgde trim molding on mine to hide the raw-cut edges of the fiberglass. Worked for me.

If any of you guys contemplate doing this, I recommend you also buy "peel-n-seal" roof gutter material that is butyl rubber - comes n rolls and sticks down on all your sheetmetal under your trim panels, headliner and floor mats. It is excellent sound deadner and is also sold at Lowes. On the roof under the headliner I also put foiil-faced bubble-wrap made to insulate A/C ducts in homes. It has foil on both sides and is good heat insulation for roofs and floor panels, etc. Also comes from Lowes - I sound like a salesman, I know, but relly I'm just too cheap to spend the bucks for the quit-ride package. Besides, I like doing it myself.

If anyone needs them, I have a full set of patterns for interior panels for a five-window cab that Ill part with for the cost of postage - they're sorta' big.

Good Luck,

[MBF]

I used a piece of foam sheeting that my wife picked up at a fabric store. I can't remember if they were 1/8 or 1/4 inch. I cut them to shape and then glued on my material using contact cement and screwed them to the door using the original holes. That was 4 or five years ago-still holding up well. I did the same thing with the rear panel around the rear window. Um-ignore the dummy-she's been reworked to be more anatomically correct. I take her to shows w me because my wife says the truck is too noisy, and I don't like to go to events alone. She gets lots of comments and stares. Mike

Edited June 27, 2011 by MBFowler

[lugnut123]

I used the flat plastic 4x8 bath room wall board use a good spray paint for plastic then useing the aluminum backed insulation under the floor mat, behind the seats ,inside the doors and under the head liner. The truck is really quiet.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I use the pressed board from Lowes...it is a tad thicker than the original pasteboard..easily cut..strong..and after cutting my pattern I sand the edges and coat it with two good coats of polyurethane to protect against mosture absorption..doing this and also using a plastic moisture barrier between the panel and door when installed will go a long way. This stuff is also 4 x 8 sheets and inexpensive..

[Scruffy49]

I'm making my door and kick panels from hair thin copper sheeting laminated onto fiberglass. Some old Navy junk my father in law had floating around to use in one of his boats. Amazing what you can find at military auctions...

Mahogany strip headliner, mahogany armrest/door pull combo.

Corrugated plastic election signs make excellent panel boards. Easy to cut, easy to bend, usually free after the election (or before if you don't like the candidate...). Simple spray adhesive will affix a fabric or vinyl cover, material is soft enough for a sewn vinyl edge, folded over to hide the stitching. No worse than edge binding carpet, easier than sewing welting (I do both by hand, but, I'm kinda old fashioned...okay, strange).

My stepson and I made the panels for his 54 Ford Squire (English miniature station wagon) out of Home Depot and Lowes sourced fiber board and western red cedar "benders", 1/4"x4"x6' or 8'.

Even the fiberboard headliner that came stock in my 69 Sweptline is being redone in wood strips. Adds character.

[builtfercomfort]

Howcy Mr. Elk,

I used ABS pameling from Lowes. It comes in 4 x 8 sheets and is white and of course is completely waterproof. One side is smooth and the other is pebble-grained. I painted mine brown with Krylon plastic paint. Now it is easy to touch up if it ever gets camaged. Mine has been in use for about three years.

The original stuff was pasteboard, ancd deteriorated rapidly due to moisture. The headliners sagged ancd the trim panels wore through at the latch handles and window cranks. This stuff is easy to use and looks nice when finished. I put door edgde trim molding on mine to hide the raw-cut edges of the fiberglass. Worked for me.

If any of you guys contemplate doing this, I recommend you also buy "peel-n-seal" roof gutter material that is butyl rubber - comes n rolls and sticks down on all your sheetmetal under your trim panels, headliner and floor mats. It is excellent sound deadner and is also sold at Lowes. On the roof under the headliner I also put foiil-faced bubble-wrap made to insulate A/C ducts in homes. It has foil on both sides and is good heat insulation for roofs and floor panels, etc. Also comes from Lowes - I sound like a salesman, I know, but relly I'm just too cheap to spend the bucks for the quit-ride package. Besides, I like doing it myself.

If anyone needs them, I have a full set of patterns for interior panels for a five-window cab that Ill part with for the cost of postage - they're sorta' big.

Good Luck,

The white ABS stuff is not quite up to spec for cars. It is thin and shatters in time when it gets vibration and temperature extremes. It's made for showers and such. I helped take apart a '23 T interior with this behind it, the owner was cursing a lot.

Tim's got a good idea, the pasteboard can take heat/vibration. There is a heavier grade black ABS available from plastics shops that is also thermo-moldable. Also other people have had some luck with plastic corrugated signboard. That's available at sign shops, or free sometimes just after an election (though finding signs big enough for a door panel is not always easy).

Anyway, just passing along experience - don't want you to redo work.

[Plymouthy Adams]

ABS sheet plastic suitable for door panels is often times not available in proper size for the older car/trucks larger panels and if you do find some it's shipping and initial cost in over the top..at least that has been my findings..most upholstery shops still use the thinner paperboard that is extremely susceptable to warpage...the older cars did not use the plastic vapor barrier found today and thus thier downfall..but think though..lots of them are still in one piece..only sitorted..if made waterproof with a poly coating and sue the moisture abarrier..I see no reason why this stuff will not continue to meet grade...it is just that I feel the extra steps are needed to give some assurance of stability..