oldcarlover Posted May 5, 2011 Report Posted May 5, 2011 I am starting a full body restoration on my 36 coupe. The car is remarkably solid, I pulled the door panels off and the inside has just very thin surface rust. I would like to wire brush this area and coat the inside door panel area. Do you think a por-15 or other coating that dosen't require complete stripping is a good choice? Quote
Drdialtone Posted May 5, 2011 Report Posted May 5, 2011 I picked up this stuff at a swap meet. Might be a good solution to your rust removal needs! http://www.therustdoctor.com/ Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 5, 2011 Report Posted May 5, 2011 using any chemical regardless if for stipping of paint or application for rust..suggest that it not be left to dry as it does its duty...watch carefully where it goes as far as holes and voids...do nuetralize it, do air dry after the neutralizing..any excess powder/residue needs be removed from the substrate..all these products if not used properly can and will return to haunt you should it get reactivated with water/dew car wash etc etc.. Quote
Fluid drive Posted May 5, 2011 Report Posted May 5, 2011 Oldcar: I restored my 1936 P-1 Buisness Coupe a few years back and my partner and I throughly sandblasted every available surface ( he was a Korean war vet and profesional body man who had been using a sand blasting set up for years) and then sprayed tar type undercoating on all of the interior surfaces. Before the application of the undercoating the doors and trunk lid were treated with rust mort liquid which was applied to the inside so that it ran through the folded edges of the skin and out through the outside as the doors were rotated. The undercoating provides a permanent rust barrier and sound deadening that is far superior to the original factory glued on tar paper. I've never used the POR product but have heard that it does a good job. Fluid Drive Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted May 5, 2011 Report Posted May 5, 2011 If you can get the surface clean and get the loose rust off, you can spray Zero Rust or POR15 in there and it should be fine. Both are best applied to stable rust. Quote
John Mulders Posted May 6, 2011 Report Posted May 6, 2011 I have used "safest rust remover" : http://www.safestrustremover.com I used it on the window moldings (had a small setup with a aquarium pump) and these cleaned out perfect, then had these spraypainted. Still looks great. The dashboard was not done but was "prepped" by the same painter and spray-painted. Now the rust is bubbling again on the dash, wish I had the sense to do that prep job myself.... Still use it on small rusty parts. Just let it stay for a bit in the fluid, it also seems to protect against rust a bit. Great product, no problems handling. John Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted May 6, 2011 Report Posted May 6, 2011 Hi John.....did you ever get your car running again after the flood? Quote
John Mulders Posted May 6, 2011 Report Posted May 6, 2011 Hi Bob, nope, the vacuum advance on the distribtor is broken, I am trying to get one from AB but he doesn't have them at the moment. Next week I am on vacation, Singapore, hopefully after that he has them. I can then also order other things (like the rebuild kit for the carburator and probably also for the steering (bit too much play). John Quote
chopt50wgn Posted May 6, 2011 Report Posted May 6, 2011 The rust encapsulator from Eastwood works great over surface rust. I also have use rust bullet over rust and it works good too. Quote
Lou Earle Posted May 7, 2011 Report Posted May 7, 2011 I am sure the pour 15 is great as are many other products. My experience is that for ease of preparation application and rust prevention plain old rustolieum rusty metal prime(red) followed by rustolieum paint- any color- is hard to beat and very economical. 8 years ago I wire brushed off a model a frame by hand then applied the rusty metal primer by brush then gloss black by brush. I has sat out in my yard since then no protection against wind rain snow sun etc. It has not blistered cracked - it has faded some but as a barrier coating it has worked well. And at less than 10 bucks a quart it is is areal bargain. As far as running into seams cracks just thin it a bit and apply 2 coats. The first thing I do when I get an old car is remove the carpet or old horsehair matting clean and vacuum the steel floor and apply rustolieum as above - even if I plan on patching the floor some way- that application just pus an end to advancing rust. Some of my cars have e had that application on them for 15 to 20 years and ain't rusted yet. I just got a 50 plymouth station wagon from a barn- washed it off cleaned it with gasoline then sprayed it with red rustolieum then black semi gloss. now I can go back and remove dents cut out rust- very little then re prime at what cost- about 2 or 3 bucks. Works for me Have 2 other cars in rusty metal primer ben outside several years adn no signs of rusting. Just my thoughts Lou Quote
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