albolton Posted March 25, 2011 Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 well its late in the season to start... but I am finally starting to install the fatman IFS , 360, and 727 in my 54....anybody got any hidden gem tech tips that they want to share to help me learn from someone elses mistakes feel free, this is the first suspension swap ive done, but it looks pretty straight forward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted March 25, 2011 Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Make sure the frame is square, mine wasn't, level side to side and at ride height front to rear. If you want rake in it, it needs to be in it before you start laying out the front. Putting it in after kills the geometry built into the kit. You'll probably have to recess the firewall for the engine and trans. On mine I offset the engine to the right for starter/steering clearance. You'll also need to box the frame. they may send a short plate for the area the crossmember goes in but don't be afraid to have you own longer plates put in. These frame flex a lot. For more consistant handling, they need to be stiffer. That lets the new suspension do what it's supposed to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted March 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Make sure the frame is square, mine wasn't, level side to side and at ride height front to rear. If you want rake in it, it needs to be in it before you start laying out the front. Putting it in after kills the geometry built into the kit. You'll probably have to recess the firewall for the engine and trans. On mine I offset the engine to the right for starter/steering clearance. You'll also need to box the frame. they may send a short plate for the area the crossmember goes in but don't be afraid to have you own longer plates put in. These frame flex a lot. For more consistant handling, they need to be stiffer. That lets the new suspension do what it's supposed to. Thanks, i have already started boxing the frame, from 6" under the cab all the way to the front 3/16 plate inside the web of the existing framerail to provide a backer for plug welding the 500 holes that the factory puts in , and the another 3/16 plate to box the frame, and 1/4 inch plat on the outside of the frame rail at the X member, putting 3 degrees of rake in it,fatman recomends it anyways...and measure measure measure, my plan is to tub it next year so ill box the rest of the frame then not going to cut the firewall, going to trim the upper rad saddle plate move the rad position forward, and use a rear drop pan...have seen several done both ways, no complaints either way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted March 25, 2011 Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 There's usually abouyt 3 degrees anit-dive built into the set-up. I'm surprised they recomend raking the truck 3 degrees. That's a purely personal preference. You can set the truck up as a taildragger, level or low in the front, your choice, but you need to know where you want it before you start tacking in pieces. Even if you bag it, you need a solid reference point to make them work right. Changing the ride height after the front is welded in will change the geometry and can end up with a vehicle that is not fun to drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
52NowWhat Posted March 26, 2011 Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 well its late in the season to start... but I am finally starting to install the fatman IFS , 360, and 727 in my 54....anybody got any hidden gem tech tips that they want to share to help me learn from someone elses mistakes feel free, this is the first suspension swap ive done, but it looks pretty straight forward What are you doing with the old flathead???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted March 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 There's usually abouyt 3 degrees anit-dive built into the set-up. I'm surprised they recomend raking the truck 3 degrees. That's a purely personal preference. You can set the truck up as a taildragger, level or low in the front, your choice, but you need to know where you want it before you start tacking in pieces. Even if you bag it, you need a solid reference point to make them work right. Changing the ride height after the front is welded in will change the geometry and can end up with a vehicle that is not fun to drive. fatman sets theres aup for 3 degree rake on a standard kit because most people put a bit of rake into it, that is what they base the anti dive geometry on, they actually have a very nice package specifically for the dodge truck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted March 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 What are you doing with the old flathead???? already sold, sorry, its leaving at noon today (I hope) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 (edited) heres a little update if anybodys interested, frame is boxed form 6" under the cab to the front, and suspension is in, it took about 20 hours starting with the original engine out, This fatman kit is really nice if anyone has been thinking about it...do it, it is made for the dodge, and fit like a glove, and they send EVERYTHING...and very good instructions, just measure, measure ,measure,...then measure one more time...just waiting for my 360 block to get back from the machine shop and I can mock-up the mounts, then i can really spend some money on the steering column, master cly, etc etc etc Edited April 21, 2011 by albolton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 What kind of a track width do you end up with the setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Mathias Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 Wished my 54's frame looked that good to start with! Last owner hacked it up real bad to drop in a 55' 301 Spitfire poly motor. Can't really decide to fix it up and MII the front with a Jeep rear, or say the heck with it and get a 1st gen Dakota frame and figure out how to drop the poly in it. As it is, I would have to completly redo the engine mounts and do a custom set of headers to get the exhaust to clear how the frame curves in right there on the 54'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 I had originally put a narrowed fullsized Ford IFS under mine years ago. Cut it back off a couple years ago and recreated straight frame rails with step cuts, fishplates and boxed rails. It now mimics the original rails enough to have easily placed a MII under the front. Much more open, most of the clearance issues are erased and engine mounts are simple and easy to fabricate. The curved rails could be removed and replaced with straight rails. The Dakota frame swap may also entail shortening the frame. Buds truck is an excellent example of the work required to do the swap, custom features aside. I'd say it's a tossup in either direction. The heavier metal of the rails is easier to weld than the thin steel of firewalls and floor pans but it's also structural so no place for poor welds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buds truck Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 very nice installation, lookin good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted April 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2011 What kind of a track width do you end up with the setup? mine is 60 " hub to hub, I also have the coke bottle frame, that is used until 1958, the older style frame 47-53?? is 58" hub to hub, i kind of agree with what you say about the straight frame rails, my frame is only about 25" inside at the axle center line, and it is going to be a nightmare with exhaust and steering shaft from the column to the rack, I also chose to add power sterring, which is 2 more hose i have to try and route, I have never stubbed anything before, but it seems to be alot of work, the M-2 road leaves all my rad support and front frame in place so sheetmetal and bumpers go on easy and look stock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4msfamly Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 Any more news? I'm curious how you made out with the steering... I too have been doing a front end IFS for my daughter's truck... but looking at the pinched in rails gives me a headache thinking about how the steering column would make it's way up past the Poly block.... LOVE the two tone blue btw! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted August 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2011 Any more news? I'm curious how you made out with the steering... I too have been doing a front end IFS for my daughter's truck... but looking at the pinched in rails gives me a headache thinking about how the steering column would make it's way up past the Poly block....LOVE the two tone blue btw! steering is done....was really easy actually, used a flaming river column, i had to use 2 ujoints, and about 12" of DD shaft, lots of clearence for the headers, moved the location of where the column comes through the floor down 2"...really helped the joint angle, and still lots of room moving your foot from the gas to the brake, ill post some pics when i reassemble it, I have the engine back out for finishing the firewall, and then it goes to have the frame and firewall painted, thansk for the compliment on the two tone...i didnt like it at first, but it is growing on me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buds54dodge Posted August 8, 2011 Report Share Posted August 8, 2011 Thats a good looking truck. I'm in the beginnig stage of a 54 with the narrow front frame and leaning towards the same front suspension. I'm curious as to the ride height compared to original. If you wouldn't mind, could you take some more pics of your engine mounts and steering setup.You do nice work. There's not many good pics out there of these old dodges with similar mods. Thanks, Bud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted August 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2011 no problem on the pics, just out for paint on the frame right now, and ill take some with a good camera, the ones i posted where just with my blackberry, the narrow frame makes things a bit tight, but I think its still way easier than clipping it, I have boxed my frame to about 12" under the cab, and welded all of the rivitted joints to take out the flex, fatman sent a good kit, evrything fit, and the instructions are easy to follow if your handy....measure, measure and measure again , I havent got springs in it yet because all the weight isnt on, but basically the centerline of the spindle is at the bottom of the frame rail...which depending on the tire hieght your running is pretty low, you can adjust and inch or so either way with spings and keep the geometry, with a 26" tire and my lower control arms level, im going to have about 5.5" from the lowest point, which is a bracket near the center of the front x member, (Near the rad saddle mount), if you use the stage 2 kit or better from Fatman you can bag it later if you want which i probably will, my plans are to Tub the truck next year, so ill bag it all the way around then, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4msfamly Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 (edited) It's funny how worlds collide... I think I found you through one of your friends on the HAMB.. I've been searching a lot for front suspension options for these trucks.. the front rails do make it "challenging." I am very interested in more pics of the steering. I've been agonizing about what to do for my daughter, as I want to give her better brakes and steering, while also lowering it a bit. Did you have to notch the upper A arm mounts at all to get them to fit over the rails? It looks like not only do they get narrow at the mounting point, but also dip down a bit. Can you also shoot a pic of the rear of the lower A arm mount? Are you using the drop spindles, or are those the "normal" ones? I can't wait to see it with springs on it too. Thanks! Marc Edited August 11, 2011 by 4msfamly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 Did u sell ur motor complete? That breather and oil filter system would be great! Do you have more pics of ur oil system? Sorry to hijack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted August 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 Did u sell ur motor complete? That breather and oil filter system would be great! Do you have more pics of ur oil system? Sorry to hijack ill have a look, the breathers where made by Phillips performance, as was the exhaust manifolds, i hear this guy was kind of a flathead guru from the west coast of the U.S., sometimes you will see some old stuff of his for sale...sorry though sold complete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted August 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 It's funny how worlds collide... I think I found you through one of your friends on the HAMB.. I've been searching a lot for front suspension options for these trucks.. the front rails do make it "challenging." I am very interested in more pics of the steering. I've been agonizing about what to do for my daughter, as I want to give her better brakes and steering, while also lowering it a bit. Did you have to notch the upper A arm mounts at all to get them to fit over the rails? It looks like not only do they get narrow at the mounting point, but also dip down a bit. Can you also shoot a pic of the rear of the lower A arm mount? Are you using the drop spindles, or are those the "normal" ones? I can't wait to see it with springs on it too. Thanks! Marc I did have to notch the upper a arm mounts, but only because none of the original frames are identical, and you need a little fitting room, Fatman has really easy to follow instructions for laying it out and notching, again no problem with the pics, and I am not running drop spindles, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted September 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 I thought io would throw up a few more pics of my suspension / drivetrain swap for anyone who is interested....its getting there, very slowly , still waiting to get the firewall painted so I can start reassembling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted September 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 (edited) and a few more...you can see I left the front spring perch in place, i figure ill put a pin through it and use it as a tie down on the trailer, Buds54dodge, you asked about the engine mounts, they came from Paul Horton Welder Series, nice little kit, and very reasonable price, I offet the engine and transmission 1" to the right to give a little more foot room for the driver, I also bought my brake pedal set up from them, I know alot of guys are putting them under the floor, but its already tight enough down there, and with the dual 7" booster, its not too big as far as i am concerned on the firewall, A guy I work with helped me out with the firewall and tunnel, and im pretty happy with the way it turned out Edited September 6, 2011 by albolton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Babb Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 Coming together nicely. Looks like the engine will fit nicely (especially with the recessed firewall. I didn't have the skills or the guts to do that on my truck. It will payoff with the handling improvements. Have you done anything about the rear setup or are you leaving it stock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
albolton Posted September 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 seeing as im waiting for the firewall to be painted, I figured I would fit the inner fenders, I know the openings look a little big, but I will cut up a nice rubber flap to trim it up, and the larger opening will make it easier to reinstall the front clip in one piece, im going to have them chemically striped, and then paint them the body colour...same as the firewall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.