steering column disassembly

[ggdad1951]

ok, with some time on my hands, as spring is springing, I started into the steering column/box rebuild. Managed to make a wheel puller and get the steering wheel off, but some things I have a question about:

1. does the bearing in the top of the jacket come out? If not, is it a good idea to run it thru a powder paint line? Do I need to re-lube that top bearing?

2. should any fluid be leaking out where the shaft goes into the housing (none is)? Does this mean it's all leaked out over the years? If I need to refill it I remove the plug (19-02-17)? How much and what (SEA 90?) to put in (and will it leak out if the assembly is not kept upright?) I remember a large/long discussion last summer about a grease zerk and grease instead of oil.

3. from all the tests in the shop manual, it seems to be in good shape and doesn't need adjustment, so no need to tear it all apart, right?

4. What does the "cover" do (the big band clip near the bottom of the jacket)?

[HanksB3B]

Steering Box

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=21335&highlight=steering

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=22463

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=21029

Hank

[austinsailor]

I just took apart 3, ended up having one that was good.

To answer some of your questions, not as an expert, but from observations from messing with them.

1. Not sure about the top bearing, assembly, disasembly, etc but I'd put a little grease on it.

2. It shouldn't leak. It should have a fluid type lubricant in it, not grease. Refill it by removing the plug (the one closest to the frame). But, before filling it, I'd pull the pitman arm, pull the top off, and pull the sector gear and shaft out (One piece) This can easily be done with in the chassis without removing anything else. I'd inspect it for any gouging or damage to the worm and sector. If none, I'd replace the seal in the bottom (about $15 at NAPA) which is very easy, and start fresh so it will hold the fluid lubricant.

I don't recall any sort of seal in the top, I think it uses gravity to keep that end sealed.

From the three I just took apart, and a number of other steering boxes I've taken apart, I'd say most damage to steering boxes is improper, or no lubricant. I think actual normal wear is way down the list.

3. Holds the outer collar of the steering shaft to the box. The worm gear and shaft is one piece from the bottom of the box through the steering wheel. This is like a cover.

It's actually very easy to remove the whole assembly if you want.

1. Pull the pitman arm using a pitman arm puller, a pretty cheap tool.

2. Remove the floorboards.

3. Remove the 3 bolts through the frame into the box. (My 48 had an additional casting between the frame and box with a hidden bolt, the others I've worked on only had the three bolts.

4. If you have turn signals added, unclamp them from the column.

5. Remove the two bolts holding the clamp around the column to the dash.

6. Lift it out and walk away.

If your floorboards come out easily, this can easily be a 15 minute job.

[52b3b Joe]

I don't think that bearing in the top comes out, I couldn't get mine out but maybe I was doing something wrong. It will leak if not kept upright (atleast mine did) and I used 90W oil in mine. There is supposed to be a gasket on the top cover, there was one on mine when I took it apart. I hope this helps a little....

Im still waiting on my friend to bring me a better camera to use for the engine tag, they keep forgetting it....sorry for the delay.

[ggdad1951]

spent the last few hours going over it more...there was still some oil in there, just not much. Checked everything over that I can with it off the truck from the service manual and will re-gasket and paint her up over the weekend.

only gasket on the top of mine was a felt washer, more like a dust keeper outer than anything.

As for the jacket, I think I'll rattle can it, just to be safe. I don't want those bearings doing anything funny in the powder coat oven at work!

[austinsailor]

You really ought to put a new seal in it while it's out. I can get you the number in the morning.

[ggdad1951]

BTW, the picture below is the "cover" (as called out in the exploded views) that I wonder about it's use?

[ggdad1951]

You really ought to put a new seal in it while it's out. I can get you the number in the morning.

it's almost afternoon! And I'm heading to NAPA after work!

[austinsailor]

Sorry, when I didn't see anything this morning I figured you didn't need it.

Steering box takes National Federal Mogul seal # 240151.

Both Napa (about $15) and Oreily (about $20) can get it. It also crosses to about 12 more manufacturers (of vehicles) numbers.

This should fit Dodge and Fargo, 1/2 to 1 ton from 48 to 53 or maybe later.

[HanksB3B]

The felt (and that's really all you need or at least the engineers at Chrysler thought) is a trimmed down battery felt washer. The more modern one was given to me for free from CJ's a shop that rebuilds steering boxes (and rack & pinions and such) that offered my one over the phone, after I rebuilt mine. It's mostly dust and dirt you are trying to avoid entering the steering box. Mine is filled with Amsoil 75-90 weight Synthetic Gear Oil. I thought about using John Deere Corn Head Lube but the new paper gaskets (shims) I made are still holding. It's been some months now. If yours is a Gemmer the attached will work for you too. I'd avoid powder coating unless you completely disassemble everything. 3 good coats of Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy gives a very durable finish.

Hope this helps,

Hank

Shims.pdf

Cover Plate.pdf

[ggdad1951]

no my felt washer is fine. I Was thinking gasket 19-04-2.

I just cut a new one out of stock I have from others I had to make, painted her up last night. here's hoping the oil seal is happy, or I'll be taking her all apart (never got it THAT far apart yet).