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Posted

Well my breaks have gone out completely. I went to go and get some dog food today and the pedal went to the floor. I knew the master cylinder was leaking but as long as I kept a close eye on the fluid it was doing okay. I checked it and the fluid level is still fine but there is no pedal.

Do you guys think it is still probably the MC? I had already ordered a kit for the MC before but who knows how long it will take to arrive. I also have new shoes for the front on the way as well. The plan was to continue to enjoy the car until the new parts arrive but I guess now it is parked.:(

I have seen a couple threads here about rebuilding MC's but if anybody has any suggestions or tips please let me know. This will be the first time I have ever rebuilt an MC before.

Thanks,

Carl

Posted

They're pretty easy. Definitely note how your old one was put together to avoid trouble assembling the new. If the bore on your MC is pitted or scored, you will want to have it resleeved (or get a new MC). I can recommend Apple Hydraulics for resleeving.

Posted

I went through the same thing last year. I decided to spend the $16 on a rebuild kit and try it. It took about 2 hours for a semi skilled person like myself to hone it out and rebuild it. I figured if it didn't work I would then replace it. So far so good. I figured if it didn't work I was out less than $20. I have done sillier things that cost more money than that.

Posted
I have thought about buying a new one but the rebuild is only $18. I am still thinking about it though. I could always rebuild the old one and then put it up for sale.

Providing the mc is free of pits and excessive wear. If all is well, just rebuild, clean MC, hone, install new kit, paint mc, install back on car.

If the MC is pitted, you have 2 choices, have it re-sleeved, or buy another, I would re-sleeve, but thats me....

Posted

Absolutely nothing happens when I keep pumping it. Do you think I may have another problem? Like I said, it isn't even pumping the fluid out of the MC. I think the seals have gone bad enough that it isn't doing anything anymore.

Do you have to hone the cylinder out even if it looks okay? The reason I ask is because the car only has a little over 50,000 miles on it and it has not set for long periods that I know of.

My new kit arrived today and I hope to pull the MC early next week and get started on it. I am going to school for a degree in graphic design and have a very time consuming art class right now that takes most of my time. I have to do several nude model drawings tomorrow so I doubt I will have the time to work on it before Monday.

Later,

Carl

Posted

You should hone it regardless of the condition. This puts a new crosshatch pattern on the cylinder wall and allows the new seals to seat properly.

I had a little pitting in mine and ran the hone for a total of 15 minutes of so. Cleaned up pretty nice. I'm going to try it and see what happens.

Posted
That's what I figured. Honing is the only part that concerns me about this because I have never done it. I'm sure I'll figure it out though.

I had never done it before either. Just used lots of brake fluid to lube the stones and cylinder, then start spinning, and moving back and forth quite quickly. You will figure out how far you have to move the drill to make sure you don't pop out of the bore, and how fast to spin things.

I did my honing in approx 1 minute intervals, and cleaned and re-lubed everything each time.

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