buds truck Posted February 11, 2011 Report Posted February 11, 2011 Saw a tech article on the hamb and thought I would share this, I wish I would have seen this about 2 months ago... this is what the tech article says: "we spent a better half of a day drilling, heating, pounding and cursing trying to get the pins out of the passenger side door. one my my instructors read about using candle wax to remove rusty bolts on the HAMB. so the next day we tried it. it worked like a champ we had all three out in about 15 mins. heat up the metal, pour some wax on it, and pound them out. we also drove one out with just a punch. just that easy!" Quote
Bob_Koch Posted February 12, 2011 Report Posted February 12, 2011 Wow, good tinformation o remember. Thanks for showing us. Quote
rustyzman Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 Beeswax works well for that also. Get a cheap toilet ring and use it for the wax. Nice because it has such a high flash point and does not just evaporate like other penatrents in the presence of high heat. A bit on the stinky side though. Quote
HanksB3B Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 I don't understand why melted wax would work better than penetrating oil and impact hammer-like tapping to break up the rust crystals. Witchcraft...maybe...What else could it bee? Hank Quote
rustyzman Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 The key to the wax working is the use of heat. It will wick the wax in deep and the expansion from the heat will break the rust bond. I find that heat works better than hammer/vibration when the item in question is suceptable to mushrooming and damage. Otherwise, air hammer work with punches or a screwdriver/socket chisel and penetrating oil works better. All depends on the situation. The wax trick can work wonders on tie rod ends. Quote
48Dodger Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 I don't understand why melted wax would work better than penetrating oil and impact hammer-like tapping to break up the rust crystals. Witchcraft...maybe...What else could it bee?Hank My edge-idgh-macated guess would be: Wax has to be very hot to flow...taking that heat into the same areas unheated lube would. The heat, with the expansion, results in excellent splipage...... 48D Quote
HanksB3B Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 "Whatever works" comes from. I forgot to include heat in the penetrating oil and impact scenario. Now with all the battery powered impact tools available it must be a lot easier to take home junk yard finds the same day. I remember telling junk yard guys I wanted something, soaking the part in liquid wrench and coming back days later to remove the bolts. Hank Quote
oldmopar Posted February 13, 2011 Report Posted February 13, 2011 Wax is also used on exhaust manifold bolts along with a little prayer that they do not snap off. Just wondering if anyone has tried the other side of the coin a freeze product http://www.crcindustries.com/files/Freeze-Off%20Brochure.pdf Quote
buds truck Posted February 14, 2011 Author Report Posted February 14, 2011 instead of investing in a can of that, you can take a plain can of computer keyboard cleaner, turn it upside down and voila..... instant freezing spray. Quote
rustyzman Posted February 14, 2011 Report Posted February 14, 2011 I have used freeze off. Nothing special in my experience. The liquid wrench foaming stuff is nice though. It sticks on the fastener as a ball of foam and slowly penetrates. PBBlaster is still no. 1 for me in the world of penetrating oil. The blue wrench/gas axe still beats them all though... Quote
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