thrashingcows Posted February 8, 2011 Report Posted February 8, 2011 After I got the removable floor pan section out last week I also pulled the MC for a clean up and rebuild. Here are a few before pics... And 4 pounds of crud.... And those pinch clips (not sure if that's what they are called) Are a bit of a pain to remove....at least until you figure out an easy way to do it. I used the screw driver on the side opposite to the open pinch end, then hammered it down and out. Took a few whacks to get a bite, but once it bit it only took a couple more hits to get it off. Quote
thrashingcows Posted February 8, 2011 Author Report Posted February 8, 2011 And today I cleaned up the parts on the wire wheel, and honed out the MC. Everything looks great, and should go back together nicely. Will clean and paint everything before re-assembly. Should be the nicest pieces on the car so far..... Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 10, 2011 Report Posted February 10, 2011 TC ,Oh the fun of it all, looks about right, if you can get that puppy sleeved in the Vancouver/Seattle area, thats exactly what I would do, instead of getting rebuilt one. Same thing with wheel cyls, re-sleeved in brass or stainless, new kits, good to go.... Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 10, 2011 Report Posted February 10, 2011 And today I cleaned up the parts on the wire wheel, and honed out the MC. Everything looks great, and should go back together nicely.[Will clean and paint everything before re-assembly. Should be the nicest pieces on the car so far..... If the bore looks good, then new MC rebuild kit should be fine. Make sure it goes back together correctly, and your relief port is clean...Looks Good Quote
pawpawpatch Posted February 10, 2011 Report Posted February 10, 2011 Brian your a day ahead of me!!!!!!!!!!!!! i Just got my kit in today. Rockport mentioned relief port............if you look through the filler hole down to the bottom of the master cyl. you see a hole I cleaned that hole but mine looks like it has 2 holes one looks smaller than the other. I tried poking a tip cleaner thru the other one but couldnt. so is there just 1 hole are 2? yours is looking good. Quote
thrashingcows Posted February 14, 2011 Author Report Posted February 14, 2011 Brian your a day ahead of me!!!!!!!!!!!!! i Just got my kit in today. Rockport mentioned relief port............if you look through the filler hole down to the bottom of the master cyl. you see a hole I cleaned that hole but mine looks like it has 2 holes one looks smaller than the other. I tried poking a tip cleaner thru the other one but couldnt. so is there just 1 hole are 2? yours is looking good. Sorry I didn't get back to this thread PawPaw...You should have 2 holes, one big and one very tiny. I had to use a small pin to punch through the crud in the small hole. Quote
thrashingcows Posted February 14, 2011 Author Report Posted February 14, 2011 But got everything painted and reassembled over the weekend. And I used a couple 5/8 snap rings instead of the old pinch washer. I used two per side since they grove was quite thick. Not bad, but wish they had been a bit bigger in out side diameter, but they should still work fine. Quote
thrashingcows Posted February 14, 2011 Author Report Posted February 14, 2011 And the MC and pedal assemblies reassembled... And re-installed in ol' Fernando....nicest part on the whole car right now.... Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 14, 2011 Report Posted February 14, 2011 looks good Brian, are you or did you bench bleed the MC before hooking up too all new lines and fresh wheel cyls. The pedal holes that go on the shaft at front of the MC, are they nice and round, or egg shaped, good time to correct this if you have slop or out of round. Looks good, but Bench bleed the MC before bleeding rest of system.... PS you can do it on the car, just have 2 short lines, and catch the brake fluid, get it could and bled. What brake fluid are you using, I used Dot 5 silicone, and have not regretted it? Quote
thrashingcows Posted February 14, 2011 Author Report Posted February 14, 2011 Hey Fred, No I didn't bother with the bench bleed. I still have to flush all the lines, rebuild the brake cylinders etc. So this is the only "New" part on the whole system. I'm using good ol' Dot 3/4. Quote
P-12 Tommy Posted February 14, 2011 Report Posted February 14, 2011 Brian, Real impressive work you did! Good job! Tom Quote
Niel Hoback Posted February 14, 2011 Report Posted February 14, 2011 Bench bleeding is not needed for a single piston master cylinder. Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 14, 2011 Report Posted February 14, 2011 Bench bleeding is not needed for a single piston master cylinder. I know that when I bench bled my freshly built MC, it was purged, and seem to load up the entire system better. Not sure I am correct on my observation or not. Most likely it will work fine either way, as it is a singles piston 1 pot set-up... Quote
Niel Hoback Posted February 15, 2011 Report Posted February 15, 2011 Well, it certainly won't hurt anything and you are right, it can speed up the job a bit. I just finished changing the oil in my old Buick and I fill the filter before I put it on, just to speed up the pressure in the engine. Kinda the same thing. Quote
Niel Hoback Posted February 15, 2011 Report Posted February 15, 2011 You are doing such nice work that I think I will keep quiet. Quote
thrashingcows Posted February 17, 2011 Author Report Posted February 17, 2011 Well I've had a very frustrating evening. I decided after installing my nice new, rebuilt MC and pedal assemblies I would try and bleed the lines running out front. Well after much pumping I was not getting any pedal pressure and no fluid out of the MC to the lines. So reluctantly I pulled everything out again. I drained the fluid...there goes my nice paint job... And disassembled everything looking for something obvious. Thought I might have installed one of the cups backwards....nope everything looked good. So re-assembled and tried bleeding it on the bench....still no fluid coming out. So by now I'm very angry/frustrated/depressed...so decide to come to the board and search through the archives for an answer to my problem. After some time I finally came across this thread.... http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=20526 This picture posted by LuckyDevil is what helped me out.... Turns out I neglected to install item "G". After I did this everything started working properly!! I only have one thing to add about that picture. Everything is correct except for cup "C"...it actually goes between "D" and "E"....other then that the picture was a life saver. So now I have to strip and repaint all my parts I just finished repainting...since the brake fluid sure made a mess of things. Quote
Al B. Bach Posted February 17, 2011 Report Posted February 17, 2011 These photos may help me out quite a bit. I just got back from the break shop where they did a free inspection for me to look for any leaks or other problems and it turns out that I need a new MC. My question is, should I just get a rebuild kit or a new MC? The kit is around $30 and the new MC is $185. I would really like to go with the kit but I have never rebuilt an MC before. Also, the guy at the shop said that there is a good possibility that the hole is out of round and new seals may not fix it. What do you guys think? Should I bite the bullet and try my first ever rebuild or just buy a new MC? Also, how hard a job is it rebuilding it and should I know anything special? Just looking for some advice. Carl Quote
thrashingcows Posted February 17, 2011 Author Report Posted February 17, 2011 Well for me $30 vs $185...I'd go $30 every time. But depends on how handy you are. I always figure how hard can it be. What I did was pull everything apart, then clean everything really well. then you will need a small cylinder honer, I got mine for under $15. Then run out the cylinder for about 10 minutes, I do it in 1 minute intervals, then clean and re-lube and go again. Do a search on you tube for technique. Once that's done then clean everything again, really well in the bore...you want it spotless. The start your re-assembly. Not that hard at all....if you do it right the first time.... Quote
Al B. Bach Posted February 17, 2011 Report Posted February 17, 2011 I have been searching youtube and most of what I am finding is for motorcycles. I really want to save the money and do it myself but I will do some more research and make a decision. Thanks, Carl Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 17, 2011 Report Posted February 17, 2011 Well for me $30 vs $185...I'd go $30 every time. But depends on how handy you are. I always figure how hard can it be. What I did was pull everything apart, then clean everything really well. then you will need a small cylinder honer, I got mine for under $15. Then run out the cylinder for about 10 minutes, I do it in 1 minute intervals, then clean and re-lube and go again. Do a search on you tube for technique. Once that's done then clean everything again, really well in the bore...you want it spotless. The start your re-assembly. Not that hard at all....if you do it right the first time.... I agree with this unless, you have major pits, wear, and/or some other problem with the bore. The MC isa single pot, and is the heart of the brake system, so it needs to be of a high standard. If I were re-doing my brakes, I would have my old MC re-sleeved with SS or brass, although it would cost a few bucks, same thing with the wheel cyls. I was re-doing my brakes on the "poor", 5 years ago, so MC was rebuilt, it was just at the point of, maybe I should get a new or different part, but so far so good. Get a nice cross hatch pattern with your brake hone, and away you go, make sure all assembly is correct, and the relief port hole is clear. BTW, sorry to hear about the paint getting messed up, such as life with DOT3/4 Brake fluid, I am running DOT 5, which does nothing to paint..... Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.