12v blower motor for model 36 heater?

[Powerhouse]

Hello all,

I have searched for quite a while for the correct size on ebay, napa, rock, etc.

The motor used by blueskies for the 1950 style heater was "Unimotor 14560 12v 01134" AKA "1990 Dodge Van w/out air conditioning NAPA P#BK6551083"

My model 36 fan's body seems to be shorter(so it fits in the cage)...has anyone ever replaced this type?

[greg g]

or do a test of your heater fan switch. since most of the switches use resistance to vary thier output and thus the speed of the blower fan motor, your current switch may be compatable on its first two settings to runn your 6v motor with no problems. pretty sure the 6 V windings will be up to the task of 9/10 volts or so.

So put a volt meter on the out put and ascertain what voltage is passing through the switch, then decide if those outputs are OK with your motor.

Just guessing but probably the stock switch does 3, 4, and 6 volts, the first two notches putting 12 v through would be 6 and 8 volts. so even if the top two positions are not used the fan will run on the first notch like it would on full with 6 V.

[Powerhouse]

Neat.

I don't actually have a functioning switch...well, it just runs straight current...the resistor thing has been replaced with a straight glass fuse.

I guess I can just buy a new switch from napa or something. I would like a 12 volt fan though...but we'll see.

[48mirage]

My 6 volt motor failed. I went to Napa for the NAPA P#BK6551083. The Unimotor has been replaced with the Siemens PM332X 12v 04233, made in Mexico. The case bolts were slightly larger diameter on the new motor. I drilled out the holes in the motor shoe to 7/32. To connect the shoe I installed a #10 internal lock washer on each side of the shoe and secured it with a #10 brass nut. Make sure to check the orientation of the shoe to make sure the drain is down. The studs out of the motor are too long to allow proper mounting of shoe to fan shroud. I cut about 1/4" off the length of the motor case bolts. To prevent the mud dobbers from building in the motor I covered the condensate drain hole with a piece of hailscreen. I laid a small bead of RTV around the hole, placed the screen over it and secured it with a hose clamp until the RTV had cured. To instal the motor I removed the hose clamp and the motor clamp covered part of the screen. The motor is polarity sensitive but reversible. For negative ground the black wire is ground and the green wire is power.

I run a dual voltage system so the 12 volt was not an issue for me.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/CanceledItems.asp?Item=10-PM332&EDP=24705&imgover=&Description=12+VDC+2800+RPM+MOTOR+PM332X

Edited November 26, 2012 by 48mirage

[1941Rick]

For all the use the heater gets, I have been running my 6 volt motor on 12 volts for 3 years now. Only use low speed all is fine.

[Greenbomb]

You might give Grainger a look see. They have a big selection and they usually give the pertinent dimensions. Just an idea.

[Robert Horne]

In my 38 Coupe, I used the original 6volt fan, hooked to a 12 to 6 volt reducer, with a toggle switch.

With the fan running, it reads about 8 volts....

[48mirage]

Making the electrial connections I read that the motor drew 1 amp at no load. With the fan installed the load jumped to 4.88 amps. The initial current inrush was just over 11 amps so I used a 15 amp fuse. This seems to be working well using the original 2 speed switch without any excess heat.

[40P10touring sedan]

...without any excess heat.

...well, it is a heater after all, so alittle "excess heat" wouldn't hurt...