Lowering block dimensions

[Uncle-Pekka]

Would someone tell me dimensions of a lowering block suitable for D24?

I have long u-bolts and planned to drop rear some 2"..3" this winter.

However, it would be great to be able to do the blocks before taking the std. u-bolts apart. Blocks could be welded by using heavy steel profile. I suppose there has to be hole in bottom and notch or bolt head on top, which size?

Before you recommend me the nightprowlers blocks, consider the freight to Finland will be 2-3 times the price of the parts. Thus do-it-yourself may be reasonable for me.

[martybose]

Well, you already know the width (the spring width), the length (the spring perch), so all you need is the height (your choice), and the diameter for the center hole. I would suggest jacking the chassis up on one side, backing off the U-bolts and let the axle drop, and measure what you have! Also, make sure that the front/rear location of center locator is in regards to the spring per4ch, as it may not be centered ..... You also need to add something on the top to fit into the spring perch hole so the axle can't slide.

Marty

[Mark Haymond]

As martybose indicated, when you jack up the car to undo the U bolts, LIFT THE CHASSIS UP TO RELEASE THE TENSION ON THE SPRINGS. Do not put a jack under the rear axle. If you jack up the rear axle the springs will still be under tension and may injure you when you take off the U bolt nuts and the springs let loose.

[Cpt.Fred]

hey uncle pekka,

i'm running the nightprowler setup, 3".

the axle housing diameter is 3" (for your u-bolts),

the mopar spring width is 1 1/2", unlike chevy or ford.

unfortunately i do not remember the size of the center bolt,

but it should be about 1/2".

it looks great and it is a very easy operation, but i personally will

try to get rid of it. i'm having 16" rims with 6.00 bias plys on the car,

and the lower shock mount is now already under the lower side of the rim,

so are the lower ends of the u-bolts. driving, even under load,

isn't the problem, but as soon as you have uneven ground and

your rear wheel gets off the asphalt or over a ridge

(for instance when you let another vehicle pass on a narrow country road)

the result can be pretty ugly. at least it sounds ugly:rolleyes:

i'll try to get my rear springs to the blacksmith to change them,

then take 1 block out, to get the shock mount more ground clearance.

nightprowler doesn't answer any emails, by the way,

i tried to reach them several times because i needed other stuff, but no answer so far.

does anyone know what's up?

fred

[Uncle-Pekka]

Thanks fellows,

With that information I'll get started. The hole and the locator will wait until I'll get to drop the axel and get to measure.

Fred, I probably try with 2" block.

Yet another question: When dropping for instance 2", will there be issues with drive shaft, u-joints?

[Cpt.Fred]

pekka,

2" should be fine, plus the axle will have enough free travel to

garantuee a comfortable ride without shortening the bump stops on the frame.

stock shocks will work, even with 3".

i had some vibration in the drive train after putting the blocks in,

so i checked very carefully. it appeared to be a combination of wrecked

rear motor mounts and a clutch issue.

u-joints and angles all look fine.

make sure your shackles and bushings are fine, though.

fred

[Tony_Urwin]

The modified angle of the drive line is not an issue. However, as Fred suggested, no suspension parts should extend below the scrub line (basically the rims of your wheels). Otherwise, a flat tire at speed could cause you to lose control of your vehicle.

[Andydodge]

Uncle, my 1941 Pymouth has blocks made from 2" square tube, from memory they are about 6" long, with the ends welded up with a piece of 2" square plate..............even tho the original Plymouth springs are only 1.5" wide, the 2" square was ok it is only 1/4" either side, what you could do is to undo only ONE original U bolt and take it to a car parts place and find some that are 2.5" longer or have some made by an engineering shop.......taking one off should NOT affect anything so long as you left the others alone.....this way you can get what you need with minimal downtime........andyd

[Uncle-Pekka]

make sure your shackles and bushings are fine, though.

fred

Fred,

I got me a set of new bushings, plan to install them at the same time.

Tony,

Good point, will check this. Can imagine what will happen with flat tire...

Andy,

I just found 50mmx50mm RHS profile tube, a tad smaller than 2"x2", should be fine for my blocks.

[Cpt.Fred]

sounds good!

post pics when you lower it, always a nice sight:cool:

[Andydodge]

Pekka, yep 50x50mm is fine, tho' as I have 2 feet at the end of my legs I try not to think in metrics.........lol.........andyd

[Justin Slingsby]

What keep you from de-arching the springs? I did this. I had a new main leaf made and had my rear springs de-arched 4". I had my done at a heavy duty truck shop where they service suspension. They were able to do the springs bushings and hardware. I just had to install.

Previously I was running 3" blocks but that put my hardware outside of the scrub line. and as mentioned that can make for a pretty scary flat tire. Now I don't even run blocks at all.

[Uncle-Pekka]

Fred, Andy,

Ok - I surely will post pictures once I get it done.

However, I am afraid it may take time. Looks like a busy autumn at work. If or when I get to the garage I have to first finish some primer paint job I started in summer...

Justin,

I guess I'll try the blocks first to see how much I want to drop.

How much appx. a such spring job did cost?

Thanks,

Pekka

[Andydodge]

Pekka, Justin suggestion is by far the best way to lower a semi eliptic sprung car but is much more expensive and if you only wanted a 2" lowering then the blocks are fine, but as Justin mentioned 3' or more can make blocks unsafe, heres a pic of my 41 with the 2" blocks on the rear & 1 coil cut from the front.........andyd

[Justin Slingsby]

Yeah it wasn't the cheapest route but I drive the car all over so I wanted it to be safe. I paid $275 for everything. New main leaf and the rest of springs de arched 3.5 and 4" all new grade 8 hardware, all new bushings. I want the car low but it still has to be safe.

[Justin Slingsby]

Andydodge, I love your car. I have wanted a 41 for awhile now! Are you running big and littles for tire combo?

[Andydodge]

Justin, yep, they are 15x6 and 15x7 Wheel Vintique Chrome Smoothies with 195/75x15 and 235/75x15 Coker Whitewall Radials, the tyres have quite a difference in height which gives the rake........and are a 10000% improvemment over the crossplies that it had when purchased........andyd

[Uncle-Pekka]

Justin,

Actually I am surprised positively $275 is VERY reasonable for thorough spring job. However, I am afraid it will cost me double that money here in Finland.

Andy,

Your ride looks great! I am running 215/75 R15 radials all over, thus with 2" blocks rear should be a bit lower. My front springs are a bit tired, thus I will consider cutting only after I see how the stance looks like with the rear blocks.