Powerhouse Posted March 4, 2011 Report Posted March 4, 2011 EXCITING TIMES! Wish I could hear it run when ya first start it. Looks like ya did a great job. Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted March 4, 2011 Report Posted March 4, 2011 Keith, we might have to talk tomorrow. I might be turning my key, too. Quote
aero3113 Posted March 4, 2011 Author Report Posted March 4, 2011 Keith, we might have to talk tomorrow. I might be turning my key, too. He Joe, I don't think I will be starting her this weekend. I still have some things I would like to install before I do. If you have any questions let me know Ill be glad to help you out (If I can ) Quote
aero3113 Posted March 4, 2011 Author Report Posted March 4, 2011 EXCITING TIMES! Wish I could hear it run when ya first start it. Looks like ya did a great job. Thanks Powerhouse,you should come by when I start it, you are familiar with the island right ? Quote
aero3113 Posted March 5, 2011 Author Report Posted March 5, 2011 I installed the rear rubber engine mounts, how tight should I make the bolts? My car originally did not have the lower mounts just the washers and a thin rubber insulator only on the left side. I had to get longer bolts so I can use the lower rubber mounts. Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted March 5, 2011 Report Posted March 5, 2011 I ran into this myself. I don't believe there are any torque specs for those bolts. Quote
aero3113 Posted March 5, 2011 Author Report Posted March 5, 2011 (edited) I did a little work this morning and was able to get the water pump,alternator, radiator,horns,front shroud and flywheel cover installed. The radiator fit great except for a tight fit with the front shroud, I will have to file it down on each side. Edited March 5, 2011 by aero3113 Quote
aero3113 Posted March 5, 2011 Author Report Posted March 5, 2011 When I got my exhaust manifold it had a broken stud for the electric choke so I ended up drilling and taping for bolts,it looks like it should work well. My radiator hoses have wire in them that are pretty beat up and rusted, do I need to keep them in? They seem like they will keep form without them. I would like to remove them so they do not contaminate the antifreeze. Quote
Niel Hoback Posted March 5, 2011 Report Posted March 5, 2011 There is no need for a wire in the upper hose. Chuck it. The lower hose should have a wire in it to keep it from collapsing when the water pump is pulling hard at higher rpms. Get a new wire or make one from stainless wire. Quote
aero3113 Posted March 5, 2011 Author Report Posted March 5, 2011 There is no need for a wire in the upper hose. Chuck it. The lower hose should have a wire in it to keep it from collapsing when the water pump is pulling hard at higher rpms. Get a new wire or make one from stainless wire. Ok good news, the upper is worse than the lower Quote
Powerhouse Posted March 6, 2011 Report Posted March 6, 2011 Thanks Powerhouse,you should come by when I start it, you are familiar with the island right ? Well, it was about 80 degrees here today..so I'll have to pass for now. If I was still out there I would Definitely lend a hand. Quote
Powerhouse Posted March 6, 2011 Report Posted March 6, 2011 Ok good news, the upper is worse than the lower I had an elbow pipe in between two straight hoses as my lower hose setup. I wondered what that was for...I guess it to keep it from collapsing. Quote
aero3113 Posted March 6, 2011 Author Report Posted March 6, 2011 I decided to go out and buy some oil, got home put it in and started cranking. I cranked for about 15 seconds and nothing, tried again and nothing. I wanted to try one more time before I started trouble shooting and nothing!! I checked the oil pressure relief valve and it was free I went over to the oil pump pulled it half way out and no oil. When I put the oil pump in I put a lot of break in oil in it but guess it wasn't enough to get it pumping. I took a syringe and filled the pump with oil and started cranking. Another 5-10 seconds and I finally showed pressure, up to about 50 psi . I have spark also! but I wasn't paying attention and the rotor spun and hit the cap when it was off and broke,so now I need a rotor. Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted March 6, 2011 Report Posted March 6, 2011 Always a scary moment. I'm glad you got pressure. Did you have your plugs out? This time around, I followed some advice I heard earlier and packed oil pump with Vaseline. I had no problem getting pressure. Quote
aero3113 Posted March 7, 2011 Author Report Posted March 7, 2011 Yes Joe, the plugs were out but even with the plugs out the motor was turning slow. I think because of all the tight clearances and the new rear seal it was a little harder to turn over. As long as I didn't start the engine with no oil pressure I am sure no damage was done (I did use plenty of break in lube). Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 7, 2011 Report Posted March 7, 2011 Yes Joe, the plugs were out but even with the plugs out the motor was turning slow. I think because of all the tight clearances and the new rear seal it was a little harder to turn over. As long as I didn't start the engine with no oil pressure I am sure no damage was done (I did use plenty of break in lube). Great job on keeping this thread alive and well! Your quoted posting is #301. Others should follow your example on keeping a thread alive from the start of a topic to the finish. In my opinion this is much better than 301 threads on the same subject! Good job and keep this thread alive until the finish! Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted March 7, 2011 Report Posted March 7, 2011 Keith, mine was turning slowly to begin with also. I discovered that one of the wires to the ignition switch was corroded and frayed. This is new wiring I put in last summer. I repaired the wire and got a much better crank. I still have a problem where it will crank sometimes and sometimes it won't. I bypassed the ignition switch and still have the same problem. I think my suspects are the solenoid or the starter. Anyway, you might want to make sure all your connections are clean and tight. Quote
aero3113 Posted March 7, 2011 Author Report Posted March 7, 2011 Great job on keeping this thread alive and well! Your quoted posting is #301. Others should follow your example on keeping a thread alive from the start of a topic to the finish. In my opinion this is much better than 301 threads on the same subject! Good job and keep this thread alive until the finish! Thanks Don Quote
aero3113 Posted March 7, 2011 Author Report Posted March 7, 2011 Joe,you may have a dead spot on your armature in your starter. Bring it in to a shop and they can bench test it for you. Quote
aero3113 Posted March 7, 2011 Author Report Posted March 7, 2011 I was able to install the transmission,drive shaft and hook up the e-brake today. Lifting the trans on you back under the car was no fun! It took me a few times to get it lined up,once I did it would not go in all the way. There was about a 1/2 inch to go and it would not go any further, I had to use the bolts to draw it in. Last night I was looking around under the hood and noticed a little drip of antifreeze on the upper part of the right fender under the heater,today I investigated and found my heater core leaking . Tomorrow I will find a radiator shop near my job and get it pressure tested and fixed. Better to find it now then when I'm overheating due to loss of antifreeze. Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 7, 2011 Report Posted March 7, 2011 It took me a few times to get it lined up,once I did it would not go in all the way. There was about a 1/2 inch to go and it would not go any further, I had to use the bolts to draw it in. Not a good idea to draw it in with bolts! It should go all the way in with no mechanical assistance. I suggest you pull it out (as painful as it might be) and find out why it would not go home. First place to look is the pilot bushing. If it binds your transmission shaft will be stuck and not spin freely. This will cause a lot of problems. You have come a long way with this build. Dont take any shortcuts now! Do it right. Quote
JerseyHarold Posted March 7, 2011 Report Posted March 7, 2011 I cut the head off two spare bolts that fit the trans mounting on the bell housing, cut slots in the shaft, and used them as guide dowels to make sure the trans lined-up properly. The slots let you unscrew the bolts with a screwdriver. Also, I used a wheeled floor jack and piece of wood to support the transmission while fiddling under the car. The wheels make the trans easy to manuever. Years ago, I helped a friend get a Hydramatic out of a Cadillac with a small scissors jack on top of a roller skate. Quote
Powerhouse Posted March 7, 2011 Report Posted March 7, 2011 (edited) I had to make sure the clutch was in or the tranny wouldn't go in all the way...the gears won't align with the clutch if it's engaged. WASN'T easy. I did this on a 39 overdrive from the inside of the car...floor pan out obviously...lifted up the tranny with both arms and legs...that was really a pain...I had to take it out again because I forgot the gasket!!!! And After I got it all bolted in and connected to the shaft too. Just take it out and inspect...it's better than blowing the whole job. AND you get some practice that way. Edited March 7, 2011 by Powerhouse Quote
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