6 volt battery question

[garbagestate 44]

Hi all,

I have a slow cranking problem with my 265. I charged the battery to 100 % and after maybe 8 seconds of cranking, it dropped down to about 90%. Does this seem excessive? The motor is from about 1970,has never been used and I have had it running but not long enough for the rings to seat so it's still tight. When I did get it to start, I used a 12 volt battery. Something I don't like to do since it probably beats up on the coil and solenoid. Unlike the p-15 which uses a bendix drive, this has the solenoid mounted on the starter with the iron slug which when energized, rams the pinion into the flywheel. They are real expensive to replace. Anyway I went to 2/0 battery cables, changed the brushes and even changed the armature with a NOS one that I picked up for a song on Ebay last year. The drive bushings didn't seem to have excessive play nor did I see any evidence of the armature dragging on the field coils. Some time ago I brought the battery to a mechanic for a load test and was greeted with that "deer in the headlights" look which I am sure many of you are familiar with. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

[55 Fargo]

Hi all,

I have a slow cranking problem with my 265. I charged the battery to 100 % and after maybe 8 seconds of cranking, it dropped down to about 90%. Does this seem excessive? The motor is from about 1970,has never been used and I have had it running but not long enough for the rings to seat so it's still tight. When I did get it to start, I used a 12 volt battery. Something I don't like to do since it probably beats up on the coil and solenoid. Unlike the p-15 which uses a bendix drive, this has the solenoid mounted on the starter with the iron slug which when energized, rams the pinion into the flywheel. They are real expensive to replace. Anyway I went to 2/0 battery cables, changed the brushes and even changed the armature with a NOS one that I picked up for a song on Ebay last year. The drive bushings didn't seem to have excessive play nor did I see any evidence of the armature dragging on the field coils. Some time ago I brought the battery to a mechanic for a load test and was greeted with that "deer in the headlights" look which I am sure many of you are familiar with. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

You can buy your own battery load tester for both 6 and 12 volts.

If all of your connections, bat cables, starter and sol are in good condtion, then maybe your battery is not up too snuff.

My current set-up uses an external solenoid switch, the starter is not a bendix drive, but has an overrunning clutch drive.

You did not say how old the 6 volt battery is, how many cranking amps it has etc.

A 6 volt battery with 1000 CCA, may be the ticket, it certainly would bea lot more umph, thana 625 cca battery, that may be getting weak.

Where is your timing at, is it near TDC, sometimes, this can exacerbate the situation.

[garbagestate 44]

The battery is rated at 650cca and is about 2 years old. I did allow it to sit around in the basement for a few months during the winter months so maybe that took a toll on it. Before I started it the first time I static timed it to top dead center just to get it running. It runs well enough but won't hold an idle. Oil pressure is great if I can believe my 63 year old gauge.

[ptwothree]

Sounds like another mechanic might be in order too. Assuming the starter is a 6 volt, i'd have them both load tested. If the battery flunks get a new 1000 CCA ( 'bout $85 'round here) take it home and put a slow trickle charger on it till fully charged. Most batteries come of the shelf at about 75 - 80% charge.

We used to charge em before installing them back in the olden days..This will add a bunch of life to an otherwise good battery.

The starter, as you described it, is in better shape then mine and mine works.

You might try jumping it at the solenoid. If it cranks good then check out the ign. sw and the associated wiring to and from it.

Won't hold and idle....worn out throttle shafts leaking air??