Powerhouse Posted August 21, 2010 Author Report Posted August 21, 2010 I just got a chance to adjust the carbs. I set the idle a bit low, nice nd quiet at about 200 rpm. Problem, didn't have any get up and go...more like sit down and wait. I brought it up to 475. WOW, amazing what a difference. So far so good on the charging too. CHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARGE! hahaha Quote
Powerhouse Posted August 25, 2010 Author Report Posted August 25, 2010 UPDATE: I noticed a stumble at high rpm up hill. I also thought it just wasn't giving all it could. It has a new mechanical fuel pump, but it wasn't enough for my dual setup. I installed an electric pump a while back, so i turned it on. MUCH better. It was starving for gas I guess. I never had a mech pump on with the other engine while using the dual setup so I couldn't compare. SO far so good. Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted August 25, 2010 Report Posted August 25, 2010 UPDATE:I noticed a stumble at high rpm up hill. I also thought it just wasn't giving all it could. It has a new mechanical fuel pump, but it wasn't enough for my dual setup. I installed an electric pump a while back, so i turned it on. MUCH better. It was starving for gas I guess. I never had a mech pump on with the other engine while using the dual setup so I couldn't compare. SO far so good. Perhaps by running both pumps at once you are overcoming a slight obstruction in your fuel lines or a slight leak of air entering the lines . Quote
Powerhouse Posted August 26, 2010 Author Report Posted August 26, 2010 I checked and tightened all points. BUT there might be air coming in past the rubber caps on the extra ports not being used on the carbs. I don't know what to use to make them really tight. Maybe just silicone around the back of the caps. Vacuum gauge shows it's running properly. A slight tiny vibration of the needle of less than one pound. I have a New line from tank to pump. BUT tank is original as far as I know. That's next on my list...a new tank. Not that I ever had a problem with it. shel_bizzy_48, it was running..but just enough to keep it going. I knew a guy back on Long Island that had his engine idle so slow you could watch the fan blades. It was SO QUIET...most people didn't know it was running even when standing right next to it. And that was a beat old engine...and a beat old paint job too. poor thing...hahaha. It has been painted since...with a brush I heard. Quote
Powerhouse Posted August 30, 2010 Author Report Posted August 30, 2010 (edited) WELL, I tuned the dual Weber carbs in real nice. Mix set at 1 1/2 out from closed, speeds set at 3/8 after contact and reset timing to 5 ATDC. A puuuuurfect sound...with a nice 1 rev start. Ran so nice and powerful. Drove it for about 10 minutes to Home Depot...was only inside for 15 minutes. Left my lights on like and idiot. Didn't drain the battery at all which was nice. I started it up...didn't even rev twice. Then it pooped out within 10 seconds. Wouldn't start for about a half hour. Within that half hour I checked spark, it was OK. I checked for gas at the carbs by taking off the filter and gas poured out...so I tryed again...nothing. I then disconnected the mechanical fuel pump and just ran with the electric. Still nothing. Gas was definitely coming through. Spark was present. Coil was reading at proper ohms. Cap and rotor were fine. Condenser fine. BEATS THE CRAP OUTA ME! I just don't get it...I'm beginning to think my car hates me. Edited August 30, 2010 by Powerhouse Quote
DonaldSmith Posted August 30, 2010 Report Posted August 30, 2010 I have a wild therory about cars warming up and pooping out. I think it's the cause of recurring problems I have had. Bolts and electrical posts expand when they heat up, not much, but enough to make the electrical connections less conductive. Also sheet metal can move, as where inner fendrs meet the body. Thinigs cool down, and the car will start and run. I think I solved my no-start and no-generate problems by adding ground wires and using star washers to keep connections tight. It's worth a try. Quote
Powerhouse Posted August 31, 2010 Author Report Posted August 31, 2010 Thanks...will do. I agree. With 6 volt systems...the slightest disconnection can cause failure. Quote
Niel Hoback Posted August 31, 2010 Report Posted August 31, 2010 I had a '60 Olds that wouldn't start hot sometimes. It turned out to be a hardened coating of lead oxide on the negative battery post. I fought with that car for a long time and couldn't believe that was the problem. But it was. Quote
Powerhouse Posted August 31, 2010 Author Report Posted August 31, 2010 I'll clean them up too. Somethings gotta give. Quote
Cpt.Fred Posted September 2, 2010 Report Posted September 2, 2010 With 6 volt systems...the slightest disconnection can cause failure. amen to that... Quote
Powerhouse Posted September 4, 2010 Author Report Posted September 4, 2010 (edited) well, back to the old drawing board. Same crap again. Changed the dizzy...due to no spark. Spark is present now. Seems to be running crappy after it get to temp... Edited September 4, 2010 by Powerhouse Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.