Mid to Hi RPM Sputter

[Bradley S.]

I thought I saw a thread on this but can't find it.

My truck cuts out a mid to high throttle. I am thinking the distributor centrifugal weights are stuck as I have no vacuum advance (B1F). It does it under no load so this is why I suspect the weights and not the carb. Do you all concur?

I am thinking I can get to the weights with the distributor installed. Is this correct?

If I take out the distributor, I need to mark the rotor position relative to the base assembly and also the base assembly relative to the block right?

I don't want to hose up the timing.

thanks,

Brad

[Merle Coggins]

Brad,

Have you played with the points lately? I recently had a simolar issue and it ended up being the fact that I had the points spring installed wrong. This caused too little spring tension for the points and they would bounce at higher RPM causind the timing to retard and spark to get weak,

The distributor can be worked on in the vehicle, but it's much easier if it is removed and held in a soft vice. Just note which way the rotor is pointing before removal. It can only go back in 2 ways, the correct way and 180 degrees the wrong way. Also, if you remove the breaker plate to get down to the advance weights you will need to readjust your points again, which means that you'll need to recheck your timing. So why not pull it out where it'll be easier to work on.

Merle

[Dave72dt]

you can check the weights for sticking by grabbing the rotor and twisting it. It should move in one direction and return to original postition. Sticking, shaft wear- pull it out for a full rebuild.

[lugnut123]

The base plate gasket on your carb has 4 unward looking grooves that let a little vacum port on the bottom of your carb suck air. If the wrong gasket was installed your engine mite run ruff. Just an idea.

[grey beard]

If you check your points for the missing steel spring Merle told you about and still have the issue, pull your carb off and take the two or three largish screws out of the base casting that hold the two halves together. Between the float bowl and the base is an aluminum spacer that needs a gasket on each side. Look at your gaskets and check the marks made by the mating steel surfaces against them. There will be visible impressions that should look normal. My new carb kit gaskets were way too bigt for the center throat hold, and just barely made contact - enough to idle and run okay at low speeds but as air velocity increased when the throttle plate opened further, the gaskets commenced to leak. Proper gaskets solved the issue completely.

Good Luck Post back and let us know hyw you fare wwith these suggestions.

[Harvey Tank]

Bradley I'am dealing with the same thing you are. after pulling dist. plate to see underneath. every thing was rusted solid. I mean bigg time. I am getting a rebuildable one from a forum member. god luck on your fix. let use know the outcome. and I will do the same. so other folks can benifit from our problem.