Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

On the new engine I put in a new oil pump from VPW it is a high pressure-high volume pump---it runs about 55-60lbs at idle and it goes to around 70 at high RPM. Shows this on a Stewart guage on the engine block and between 50-60 on the dash guage---is this to high or??

Posted

If it is safe to assume that these numbers are when the engine is cold, it's not a problem. The oil pressure will drop as the oil warms up. If you are concerned about it, you can always change to a lighter weight oil.

Marty

Posted

Marty, it runs at these pressures hot or cold, it does increase some as the rpm`s go up. It seems ok, no leaks, usually good pressure as this is wanted--just don`t want to damage anything.......Lee

Posted
What is the factory recomendation?

Best I can find in my manual is 40-60lbs above 30mph--another section said 40-50lbs at 40-50mph-----could not find specs for idle pressure----it appears I might be on the high side for idle. Again new pump is higher pressure and volume, this probably changed the stats----I will call VPW for specs on pump...............Lee

Posted
Are we talking about a flathead six? If so, that sounds high to me. I think I'd check my relief valve.
Starting to think this way also---better safe than sorry--265 six......Lee
Posted

OK, I took out my relief valve and checked it out, looked good so I cleaned it up and it slides nice in the bore. Still 60lbs at idle. Called VPW on the pump and he said it depends on the bearings and said my machine shop did a good job on the clearances and that 60lbs was ok----I guess if it works don`t fix it

Posted (edited)
BeBop, have you gone on any long drives yet to let the oil warm up? If so what is the oil pressure after the drive?
It has not gone far --3-4 miles but I have let it get to operating temp and idle time has been 20 minutes when I was checking it out. Pressure stays the same. Would air in the lines be a problem? Edited by BeBop138
more info
Posted

I believe that the oil pressure gauge is a bourdon tube gauge and will measure any type of postive liquid or air pressure. The oil would pressureize the air trapped in the line and try to straighten the coiled bourdon tube out causing the needle to move. My original Plymouth servcice manual states under the oil pressure gauge the following "The tube should have air in it to cushion the pulsations of the oil pump and oil relief valve. The Dancing pointer may be the result of a leak in the oil gauge tube or improper installation. To correct this condition, disconnect the tubing at the gauge and the engine block and drain out the oil. Reconnect the tubing at the gauge first then at the block." From this one could conclude that the gauge measures air pressure and not the liquid oil pressure. I hope that this helps clarify the operation of the oil pressure gauge.

Posted (edited)

If this engine is rebuilt, I would think the 10/40 is unnecessary, and would raise the pressure. 5/30 or 10/30 seems more appropriate.

Other than that,,,,,, drive it.

Edited by jd52cranbrook
Posted
Best I can find in my manual is 40-60lbs above 30mph--another section said 40-50lbs at 40-50mph-----could not find specs for idle pressure----it appears I might be on the high side for idle. Again new pump is higher pressure and volume, this probably changed the stats----I will call VPW for specs on pump...............Lee

My question was where did you buy the pump but from this posting I assume VPW. My next question is why did you buy a souped up pump? Do you plan on winding this engine above 5000 RPM's? If so did you cross drill the crankshaft for increased oil volume?

It has not gone far --3-4 miles but I have let it get to operating temp and idle time has been 20 minutes when I was checking it out. Pressure stays the same. Would air in the lines be a problem?

As has been mentioned air in the line is required for a steady reading. Twenty minutes of running the engine at idle will not bring the engine up to full operating temperature. Twenty or more miles of driving (where the engine is actually doing some work) will bring the engine and oil up to operating temperature. Suggest you make sure your AAA card is current and hit the road for a real test. Report back after a 100+ mile trip.

Posted

Don, these were the only new pumps avaliable thru them at the time. Everybody said because of the close tolerances these pumps have to have, I just decided new was the route to go V.S. trying to rebuild one. I could change the oil if needed to see what happens----my only concern is that I am not damaging anything. I always thought higher pressure was a good thing.......Lee

Posted
Don, these were the only new pumps avaliable thru them at the time. Everybody said because of the close tolerances these pumps have to have, I just decided new was the route to go V.S. trying to rebuild one. I could change the oil if needed to see what happens----my only concern is that I am not damaging anything. I always thought higher pressure was a good thing.......Lee

As I said drive 100+ miles and report back.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use