michael.warshaw Posted March 12, 2010 Report Posted March 12, 2010 i hope its nos i paid ed speigal alot of money for it. Quote
Captain Neon Posted March 12, 2010 Report Posted March 12, 2010 I had the pleasure many years ago to chat with a lady that worked at the Detroit plant, and she told me that NOS parts were usu. parts that weren't quite right. They had passed QC inspection, but were on the edges of the specifications. The guys assembling the cars tended to cull these parts out as they didn't install as easily as the parts that were closer to target. Any one that's worked assembly line knows what I mean. These culled parts were re-inspected, and boxed to go to the dealers. The mechanics at the dealerships had a little more time to massage the parts to fit. Quote
OldDad67 Posted July 28, 2013 Report Posted July 28, 2013 I managed to find a crack-free steering wheel for my 50 Dodge on ebay for 50 bucks. Now I just need to paint it. Searching old posts I see some people paint with epoxy and others get by with Rustoleum or other spray paint. I thought of using Plasticote paint used to paint things like lawn furniture. I guess I can do that and if the results are not satisfactory go back next winter and do something different. Can anyone speak to the durability of spray paint on steering wheels? This balmy weekend (40's - balmy for Minnesota) has me itching to get my car rewired and running. I like to use good paint on mine. I buy urethane with a hardner. I've done several wheels over the years with good results. I just finished my P-15 wheel. The last wheel I did before the P-15 was on my 52 hardtop. I installed a 53 to 62 Corvette wheel that was originally black, which I painted maroon to match the interior. The paint still looks as good today as when I did it. I fill the cracks with a marine epoxy after I use a Dremel tool to "V" out the the cracks and chips. Then sand and primer, takes a little time but I like the results. Quote
doctor dirt Posted July 28, 2013 Report Posted July 28, 2013 I'd use Imron paint! It will harden beautifully and have a wet look forever! Call a few body shops and see who's using it! Well worth it!! Doc. Quote
james curl Posted July 28, 2013 Report Posted July 28, 2013 And Imron paint will kill you dead if used improperly. Follow all manufactures instructions when using the stuff, no short cuts. The catalyst used as the hardener is poisonous when breathed while spraying, you need an outside air source to your mask to be safe. Quote
Dave72dt Posted July 28, 2013 Report Posted July 28, 2013 And Imron paint will kill you dead if used improperly. Follow all manufactures instructions when using the stuff, no short cuts. The catalyst used as the hardener is poisonous when breathed while spraying, you need an outside air source to your mask to be safe. Safety wise, the worst material you can use. I doubt you'll find any body shops using it. It's tough paint, granted, but I'd much rather redo a project half a dozen times because the paint wore through than once with Imron. The modern BC/CC and single stage urethanes will hold up just fine and they're easier to work with if you make a boo-boo when painting Quote
doctor dirt Posted July 28, 2013 Report Posted July 28, 2013 (edited) I just finished my 1994 Harley Davidson FXR-P in Inron on the down tubes and controls and air cleaner and mirrors! Used my friends booth and shot a bunch of other pieces for him. My suggestion was to "find" a shop using and let "them" shot it!!! What I don't know about mechanics I make up for with a paint gun! Great looking pieces in Wet Black (Mink) Doc. Edited July 28, 2013 by doctor dirt Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.