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Posted

Well......I started working on the car this morning and managed to get the spring compressed. I had my magnet handy and got the valve locks out of there. Sounds like everything's going to plan. WRONG! No sooner I got the locks out, one of the ears on the tool broke off.:mad: I tried compressing the spring enough to put the locks on the new valve but it keeps slipping off. Another thing I'm concerned about is the head of the valve I'm putting in is 1 1/2 inch. And the old one is 1 15/32 inch. Old valve # 601258 New valve #868886 The bevel looks the same though. All valve experts please chime in. I'm thinking it'll work but wanna make sure. Now I gotta find me another tool, quick.

Tom

Posted

Tom,

Unlike an OHV engine, our flatheads shouldn't care if a little of the valve sticks into the combustion chamber, which is what that extra .03125" diameter would cause, but does the valve have ample seating surface? All else being equal it should have the maximum contact possible between the valve and the seat to keep from burning, leaking, etc. While you're looking for a new compressor why not grab some Prussian Blue and measure the valve for yourself? If you're not familiar with Prussian Blue it's cheap, available almost everywhere, and a dinky tube will last you several lifetimes unless you plan to do a lot of painting with white paint.

-Randy

Posted

Back in the olden days before I had or knew there was a tool to compress valve springs, I used a screw driver or a crows foot pry bar to compress the spring and release the keepers.

To install them the same screw driver or crows foot pry bar can work. Apply grease to the valve stem as it will hold the keepers in place. Compress the spring and stick the keepers into the grease, then release the spring.

Stuff a rag into the hole leading to the crankcase incase you drop a keeper.

Good luck!

Posted
Back in the olden days before I had or knew there was a tool to compress valve springs, I used a screw driver or a crows foot pry bar to compress the spring and release the keepers.

To install them the same screw driver or crows foot pry bar can work. Apply grease to the valve stem as it will hold the keepers in place. Compress the spring and stick the keepers into the grease, then release the spring.

Stuff a rag into the hole leading to the crankcase incase you drop a keeper.

Good luck!

Thanks for the info!

Tom

Posted
Tom,

Unlike an OHV engine, our flatheads shouldn't care if a little of the valve sticks into the combustion chamber, which is what that extra .03125" diameter would cause, but does the valve have ample seating surface? All else being equal it should have the maximum contact possible between the valve and the seat to keep from burning, leaking, etc. While you're looking for a new compressor why not grab some Prussian Blue and measure the valve for yourself? If you're not familiar with Prussian Blue it's cheap, available almost everywhere, and a dinky tube will last you several lifetimes unless you plan to do a lot of painting with white paint.

-Randy

That's good to know.

Tom

Posted
Tom,

Unlike an OHV engine, our flatheads shouldn't care if a little of the valve sticks into the combustion chamber

-Randy

Actually it could mean a lot. The reason for this valve replacement is a compression gauge screwed into the spark plug hole went in too far and bent the valve.

Posted

That larger head #868886 intake is for 1942 and up. Better check exactly where the valve face hits on the valve seat. If too much valve head margin is exposed to the combustion heat it will cause the valve to overheat and burn. I would put the older OE part # valve or equivalent aftermarket back in for being sure it's done correct.

Bob

Posted

According to the MoPar supercedence books I have, 1109911 is the correct replacement valve for 868886!

Bob

Posted

A good machine shop should be able to use a valve grinding machine to cut down the OD and then recut the face. All of my valves were made from Chevy exhaust valves that were cut down to the correct diameter. They were exactly the correct stem diameter and length, just had to use Chevy valve keepers instead of Mopar ones.

Marty

Posted
A good machine shop should be able to use a valve grinding machine to cut down the OD and then recut the face. All of my valves were made from Chevy exhaust valves that were cut down to the correct diameter. They were exactly the correct stem diameter and length, just had to use Chevy valve keepers instead of Mopar ones.

Marty

I also have shiverlay valves in my engine.

MVC-026F-1.jpg

Valvelift-1-1.jpg

Posted

Hey guys, I checked all possible leads on a valve and Andy B. had an NOS 601258 for 12.50. (thanks to andydodge for bringing that up.) I've bought stuff from him over the last few years and have been lucky. He ships fast too. I also picked up 2 spare keepers just in case.:o I'll still stuff a rag in the holes like Don C. says. I also ordered a few other things while I was at it. A gas tank filler neck grommet and door bumpers. I'm very thankful for all the help I've been given on this forum 'cause this P-12 has become my daily driver and I miss it. So the sooner I get her on the road the better. This Sunday we start another sales class and I'll be too busy to work on her for a little over a week. That's kinda why I was in a hurry to fix it. Maybe I'll have everything ready by Saturday. More pics when I get back at it.

Thanks again to everyone!! :) Tom

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