clutch

[p24-1953]

How, what are the signs of a clutch failing? I was thinking about pulling the transmission to ahve it rebuilt and was wondering if i should replace the clutch at the same time. i am trying to avoid the "while-i-was-at-its". Are they dificult to repair or replace if i decide to do this at a later time? or will i hve to pull the transmission again?

[1949P17BC]

ASigns of bad clutch, does it slip, excessive chatter when you let it out, noise in the throw out bearing. I would make sure everything is adjsuted correctly before pulling the transmission out. Why are you thinking about rebuilding the transmission, they are pretty bullet proof

[p24-1953]

well i got a few issues that have recently come up.

1. I have developed a problem getting it it into 2nd and reverse. it likes to pop out of 2nd gear and if you hold the shiter in place to keep it in gear the clutch will stay down. It likes to grind going into reverse. I have instpected the linkage and have not found anything that looks unusual.

2. when you do get it in to either of those gears there is a low rumble sound that you can fear and feel in the floor board. as you first take off. If you pull the clutch pedal up it seems to go away.

3. I have had a few time that when you put the car into reverse the car will clunk and dip to the passanger side for a second as you let the clutch out while holding the brake.

4. My wife said " you know it might be nice to be able to take this on longer trips, and since you are putting a/c in it, what would it take to beable to drive on the higway a little faster?" so i have been looking at overdrive.

the transmission and clutch are original (96,000) miles and have never been pulled or replaced. what are the lifespans on these items typically?

[Plymouthy Adams]

wtihout sound like a smarty..the life of the items in question is all about the care it got over the years and how ones drives a car..rest assured that the clutch in a car where is a person is prone to riding the clutch is very short lived..frequency of start/stops is the next factor and add in start/stops on hilly conditions will cause quicker wear of material..so to be sure I would say your clutch has seen a very good life if still operational after 96,000 miles

[Normspeed]

I would plan on doing the clutch and pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bushing, and getting the flywheel resurfaced, all while the transmission is out. Also, regarding the clunk and dip, take a good look at the motor mounts while you are in there, and inspect your driveshaft u-joints for sloppiness. These can all contribute to noises, clunks, vibrations.

[p24-1953]

im going to take a risk and sound like a untrained monkey with wrenches here but.... " i didnt think the hydrive transmission had a fly wheel"

i thought the torque convertor bolted directly to the crank and the clutch was after that. is the fly whell bolted to the back side of the torque convertor?

http://imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/066/Page31.htm

[Plymouthy Adams]

while the Hy-drive did not have what one calls a fly wheel as that assembly did incorporate the staater ring gear and torque convertor, the torque converter did have the Clutch Driving Plate attached and this functioned as the fly wheel would. (it is the forward clutch disc surface where the pressure plate is the rear surface plate).so yes in theory the actual clutch disc, prressure plate, throw out bearing and "driving plate" is all part of the set up. The trubine shaft that mechanically connected this rotating mass to the torque converter also has a tranmission pilot bushing for the input shaft to aline and support the rotationg mass of the entire assembly behind the troque convertor...

[p24-1953]

as i pull the transmission there is no reason to even touch any of the tourqe convertor correct? i am guessing finding parts for them woudl be extremly hard and i should just leave well enough alone.