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Posted

And what a PITA that was. I used my full complement of curse words and then some. Was even chucking tools by the time it was over. I tried to insert the bolts from the opposite direction, but the nuts wouldn't sit flat. They ran into the raised portion on the engine side of the crankshaft flange. So off came the pan. Anyway, the problem was that I had to turn the crank in order to insert each bolt into its hole. The engine has been sitting for seven years. I turned and it didn't want to go, even though it was put together with assembly lube. Finally freed up and after moving it back and forth it was nice and smooth. I couldn't get all the bolts in though because the arms on my engine stand were in the way and wouldn't allow me to turn the engine a complete revolution.

I managed in the end but I can tell you, the word "darling" did not pass my lips.

The gasket wasn't too bad. I got a new one from Roberts. The end pieces are made of cork. The long side pieces are something else and looks thinner than the cork. I hope it's right.

Here are some pictures:

Droppingpan042.jpg

I had to remove the rear main bearing cap:

Droppingpan046.jpg

The bolts installed in the crank flange:

Droppingpan047.jpg

Torquing the cap back down to specs:

Droppingpan048.jpg

I'm almost ready to put the engine in!

Posted

I am very glad you went on and did it the right way.:) see I'm smiling Like sly Stone "you got me similing again" As we go kicking and screaming in to the night. I know it was hard however I knew you could and would do it. Imagine if I told old Roy what you were trying to do? Imagine what he would have said. I got to get over there and see what your up to. I'm back now and it's cold here. I got some stoies to tell you!:o

Posted

You probably made it easier on yourself Joe. ;)

Last week it took me an hour to get washers and nuts on 6 studs with my 230 crank equipped 218. Just like you mentioned you have to rotate the crank for each nut because of the clearance issues. Then getting/holding the nut in position with two fingers on one hand while trying to start each nut by spinning it with the index finger of the other hand was an exercise in patience. And don't tighten that nut down all the way or else there won't be enough clearance to start the next nut. Maybe there was a reason why the '55 Dodge 230 came with an insert neoprene rear main seal instead of the bolt on type.

You're over the hump Joe, all downhill from here right? :)

Posted

Oh, I'm sure this car has a full complement of curve balls, sliders, knuckle balls, and a few other tricks to throw at me before it's over. I'm definitely over the hump, though, with the rust repair and most of the body work and painting done. Yesterday I got out the heating duct and cleaned it up. There's a big hole in it but I'm going to try to fix it with some fiberglass. I also got my rubber firewall grommets from Roberts and some silver high temp paint for my engine. I'm taking it back to the original color.

I also retrieved the bell housing, which weighs a ton. I had no idea it was that heavy. Between that and the flywheel, that's a lot of weight. Today, I'll be polishing up my front fenders and then taking them off and wrapping them up in bubble wrap and storing them away. Getting ready for the big moment: Lowering the flathead into its place.

Rodney, if old Roy saw that, he'd say, "It doesn't make any $#!#^&* difference which way the !#%&%$# bolts go in." In any case, I'm glad he wasn't looking over my shoulder.

Also, I have been applying Gunk to the mechanism that operates the cowl vent because it was filthy and totally siezed up. Works well now. I'll be installing that today. Lots of fun stuff. Little bits of the project that are fairly easy and you can see results right away. I need to take time every now and then to drop everything and clean up my mess. When I get carried away, things get a little chaotic.

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