Jim Shepard Posted July 2, 2009 Report Posted July 2, 2009 Ok, looks like I need to replace this seal. Anyone out there ever done this? How 'bout a part number? Quote
MBF Posted July 4, 2009 Report Posted July 4, 2009 Can't help you with the p/n, but I did replace the pinion seal on my 1 ton. Remove the driveshaft clean around and the yoke on the differential before you take the nut off and remove the yoke.. From here, if you rub carefully on the steel part of the seal you may be able to come up w a p/n that NAPA or someone else can cross reference. I used a "bent" seal puller to remove the old one-and really destroyed it on the way out. To in stall the new one I had a piece of pipe almost the same as the outer diameter of the seal. I tapped it into place w the pipe and a socket. You may need an impact wrench to get the nut off the yoke, or you may be able to get it w a breaker bar. Good luck. Mike Quote
grey beard Posted July 4, 2009 Report Posted July 4, 2009 Jim, Drop your prop shaft at the back. Be careful to not loose any needle bearings like most of us do when we drop one of those U-joint caps on the floor. You ger neww needle bearings in new U-joint kits. Sorta' expensive tuition, what? You'll need a decent half inch air gun to get the pinion nut loose, then tap the yoke off with a hammer and get a good cold chisel to pry the old seal out. They're sorta' nasty to get out - almost 3/4-inch thick. I got my replacement from Roberts, no problems. When you are ready to go back together, clean out the housing recess as well as you are able - suggest a rag on the end of a screwdriver. Get it as clean as possible, then butter up the outside leading edge of your new seal with Permatex gasket sealer and tap the seal into place with a soft-faced hammer. Be careful to get it started squarely, then drive it in the whole way, going around the seal a little at a time. Now check your pinion yoke to see if there is a groove worn on the machined surface by the old seal lip. This is not unusual, and if it is evident, you have two choices - either take it to a machine shop and have a thin speedy sleeve installed, or when you install your new seal, intentionally drive it in NOT QUITE AS FAR as possible, so as to get a new wear spot on the yoke. It's been done before and works quite well. Once the seal is in place, lube your pinion yoke with some white assembly lube or petroleum jelly at the edge that enters the seal, and get it started on the pinion splines. Tap it in far enough to get the nut started and run it home again with the air gun. Torque on those things was quite high, so it'll want about all your gun will deliver. Mine had a cotter pin in the end, so line up the holes and get a new one installed, if yours also has that feature. Last thoughts - Do make sure your differential vent is open. New pinion seals have been know to leak if the vent is clogged. AND do drain the differential and install new lube. That old stuff was full of sulpher - you'll tell from the smell when it comes out - and get some new gear lube in there once your repair is completed. Good luck. Let us know how it works out. Quote
Jim Shepard Posted July 7, 2009 Author Report Posted July 7, 2009 Thanks for the response guys. As always, good advice on this site... Quote
desoto1939 Posted July 9, 2009 Report Posted July 9, 2009 I have the Pinion Seal puller that was used on the 39 Desotos I assume this will fit your truck. The puller screws in the seal and then you turn a bolt that pushes the seal out from the pinion area. This is a Miller Tool that was used by the Mopar Delaers. I also have serveral other Miller tools if you guys need to borrow them. Contact me if you need to use it. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com Quote
Jim Shepard Posted July 9, 2009 Author Report Posted July 9, 2009 I have the Pinion Seal puller that was used on the 39 Desotos I assume this will fit your truck.The puller screws in the seal and then you turn a bolt that pushes the seal out from the pinion area. This is a Miller Tool that was used by the Mopar Delaers. I also have serveral other Miller tools if you guys need to borrow them. Contact me if you need to use it. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com Thanks Rich. After looking at mine a little more and realizing I didn't have the right tool (and knowing my penchant for having seemingly small projects get way out of hand) I decided to have my mechanic do it. He didn't have the right tool either, but he knew how to get around it. Total cost $136. Quote
grey beard Posted July 10, 2009 Report Posted July 10, 2009 Hi Rich, That tool would make the job a whole lot nicer to do. Digging the old seal out was the toughest part of the job. Thaks Quote
Merle Coggins Posted July 10, 2009 Report Posted July 10, 2009 I have a small slide hammer tool that has a sheet metal screw in the tip. I just drilled a hole through the seal, screwed in the slide hammer, and popped it right out. Piece of cake. Merle Quote
desoto1939 Posted July 10, 2009 Report Posted July 10, 2009 I do have the pinion seal remover and I verified in my Miller tool catalog that it will work work on the cars and 1/2 ton trucks. I also have a pinion seal installer tool. If anyone needs to use the tool please contact me. I have been collecting Miller tools and have the MT19 tool which is the tool that is used to adjust the brakes tha have the eccentrics and also the Ammco brake gage tool. I have the steering wheel puller tat was used from 1939 and up and the camber and caster tool and king pin inclination tool that was mount to the front spindle nut. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com Quote
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