grey beard Posted January 20, 2007 Report Share Posted January 20, 2007 These pedals are castings and weigh nearly 20 pounds each. They vibrate around on the clutch cross shaft and wear at the eye holes. The brake pedal has a replacable bushing - no problem getting that fixed at any machine shop. Clutch pedal has no bushing and usually is the worst worn of the two. My local machinist came up with an easy and elegant fix for the clutch pedal wobble problem. He cut a slot in the pedal eye and welded an ear to each side. A bolt through the two ears made a clamp out of the pedal eye. Now after the clutch is adjusted, I will just tighten up the clamp on the pedal/shaft, and the problem will be gone forever. Wish I had thought of that . . . . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dave Claussen Posted January 20, 2007 Report Share Posted January 20, 2007 Dave, I would be cautious of overtightening the bolt. The stress could crack the casting and then another repair would be needed or you would have too replace the pedal assembly altogether. In my 33 years of experience as a machinist I have found that one solution almost always creates another problem. Just my 2 1/2 cents worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted January 20, 2007 Report Share Posted January 20, 2007 That may work OK for you, Dave. But my Fluid Drive setup is different. The clutch and brake pedals both pivot on a shaft and have bushings with grease fittings. My clutch pedal then has a link that runs back to the clutch shaft. I considered replacing the bushings before reassembly, but since I couldn't find replacements, and they weren't overly sloppy, I opted to reassemble them as is. With a good greasing they seem to be OK for now. And their not that difficult to remove again later if a source for bushings surface. Merle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grey beard Posted January 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2007 Merle, Your setup is totally different from mine. Thanks for the photo of your running gear pedal linkage. My own does not have the clutch link shown in your photo. Is your truck Fluid Drive? My unit is a 1949, and the shaft that holds the pedals IS the clutch crosss shaft., My pedals were loose enough that they continually scrubbed the floor and toe boardsd when used. My son has three similar larger Pilothouse trucks and every one of his has the same problem. As shown in your photo, the brake pedal has a nice wide boss for the bushing, as well as a zerk fitting. The problem I found was with the clutch pedal - no bushing on the pedal and the hole was wobbled out badly. It just seemed to me that this was somegthing I could not ignore when I was doing complete rebuilds of other drive train and brake components, especially since I must also do major floor repair on the right side of the cab. The 49 shop manual shows a good photo of the clutch adjustment mechanism. I realize that cars - and obviously your truck - are much different than what I am dealing with. I did not realize there was so much diversity of clutch linkages in the Dodge family. Has anyone else found a VERY wobbly clutch peedal on a B1B? How did you fix yours? Sure would have been tickled to NOT have to make this repair, but it was too far gone to ignore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Gaspard Posted January 16, 2008 Report Share Posted January 16, 2008 Well I'm at this point. Does anyone have an update on availablilty of bushings for the brake and clutch pedals for a B3B 1/4 ton with Fluid Drive. I have mine removed because there was some slop. Both pedals have bushings similar to Merle and I would like to replace them to tighten rotation. Is this a machine shop job? Source of bushings? VPW has a kit but I'm not sure it fits. Sent them an e-mail tonight. Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grey beard Posted January 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2008 Hi Jim, For many years I was a vocational auto mechanics instructor - and ag diesel technology, etc. - and have learned the first thing kids are taught in machine shop class after they learn how to read micrometers is to make a bushing. Any competent machine shop can do this for you and it should not be too expensive. When my machinist made the new bushing for my brake pedal, he made it too large, and in trying to press it together, broke the pedal casting. He had to do some considerable welding and repair work to get the bushing in because he didn't measure correctly the first time. Bushings are also stocked in many larger machine shop parts departments. Machinery like backhoes uses them by the fistfuls, so they're out there if you look a little. I'm still amazed that there is not more action on this particular thread. Are we the only guys with our prdals scrubbing the floor boards? Maby if one of you fellers find a bushing source that fits, a part number and vendor would be in order here for the others. Remember, cluch pedals do not have gushings, unless they're like Merle's fluid drive setup. When they wear out, you need to do some engineering-type repair work. My clutch pedal was worn far worse than the brake. Now they're both like new. LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted January 19, 2008 Report Share Posted January 19, 2008 My B2B has Fluid Drive also and the clutch pedal wobbles pretty good. It also scrubs against the floor board. The brake seems ok. This may sound dumb but, what is a bushing? I'm guessing its like a short piece of pipe that would slip over the shaft and then the pedal would slip over it to tighten everything up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBF Posted January 20, 2008 Report Share Posted January 20, 2008 I've found a use for the noise mine sometimes makes when the clutch pedal rubs on the floor opening. I like to think of it as a theft alarm Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Gaspard Posted January 27, 2008 Report Share Posted January 27, 2008 I also have a B3B. I'm down to the frame for sandblasting and needed to remove the engine to get it away from all the grit. I had earlier tried to remove the pedal shaft from the bellhousing in the frame but couldn't get much leverage nor movement. Today I lifted the bellhousing out (w. engine/tranny attached). I then removed the tranny and was able to blast lubricant on shaft inside the bellhousing as well as outside. I was able to grab the shaft with a pipe wrench and twist it several 360 deg turns. The shaft finally twisted out. I have the pedals in a machinge shop to punch in new bushings. Now I can repalce the shaft with new 7/8" steel rod stock. Thanks to all for walking me through the steps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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