55 Fargo Posted February 2, 2009 Report Posted February 2, 2009 Hi got busy on the right front fender, final tweaking today before shooting on primer for the blocking process. I used regular light filler, then a premium gold filler/gl;aze, and tried Bondos polyester 2 part glaze also. All work fine for there designation. I have the 2 rear fenders more or less doen the trunk lid is done, now 1 front fender is close to done. I now have the doors hood, roff, and other fender to work on. Slowly but surely she is coming together............Fred ps this is a lot of work, especially if your green in body work like I am, I know it won't look as good as professional, but it will be better than it was....... Quote
Normspeed Posted February 2, 2009 Report Posted February 2, 2009 It's looking good Fred. You qualify as a 100% Mopar nut! Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 2, 2009 Author Report Posted February 2, 2009 It's looking good Fred. You qualify as a 100% Mopar nut! I like to think of it as a "benign vice", of sorts.......... Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 2, 2009 Author Report Posted February 2, 2009 Got primer on the fender again, rusty metal primer cut with medium speed enamel reducer. I still got some more filler work to do, then shoot on the 2 k urethane primer/surfacer, block and see what I got..............Fred Quote
RobertKB Posted February 2, 2009 Report Posted February 2, 2009 Looks good, Fred. I think your body work is going to turn out better than you think. Go the dark blue when you paint it! Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 2, 2009 Author Report Posted February 2, 2009 Looks good, Fred. I think your body work is going to turn out better than you think. Go the dark blue when you paint it! Well it's not bad for a real amateur, but is still far from real decent, but a real bodyman could get her lookin a lot better than I. I reallly like the blue paint, it will either be the elcheapo Tremclad paint doctored up with reducer and hardener, or Nason Acrylic enamel and Hardner..........Fred Quote
Normspeed Posted February 3, 2009 Report Posted February 3, 2009 Fred, I'll start another thread on a new inexpensive paint system I saw in a car mag. Quote
Rodney Bullock Posted February 3, 2009 Report Posted February 3, 2009 Fred, It's all in the sanding, using different grades of sand paper will give you a pro look. Take your time it's all about steps and stages, rushing hurts it. plus you are doing it at the right time:) Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 3, 2009 Author Report Posted February 3, 2009 Thanx Rodney, she is a wavy old beast, every panel is got something wrong with it. I am going to be using a high build 2 k urethane primer surfacer, so that should help, lots of blocking will need to be done thats for sure. I may use the polyester primer on some areas, it's like shooting body filler in a liquid form...................Fred ps this is my really first old car project where I am doing the bodywork, so inexperience is really stacked against me Quote
dezeldoc Posted February 3, 2009 Report Posted February 3, 2009 Looks good, got a question though, why are you using the rusty metal primer and not the polyester primer? If it is that wavy I would skip the primer you are using and use the poly primer all the way till the final sanding, skip the 2k primer. you want to try and use as few different undercoats as possible to prevent reactions. when you block it start with a corse paper and go to finer ones, it will come out nice and straight that way. Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 3, 2009 Author Report Posted February 3, 2009 This is my current regime, strip, clean panel, I use rusty metal primer, it has fantastic adhesion, good rust corrosion protecttion. I then do filler work, this time I opted to shoot on a couple more coats of rusty metal primer. Once fully cured, I will block this with 220, then will shoot on my 2k urethane high buld primer/surfacer, block this and see what I got. I am using the rusty metal primer as a prekote 1st primer, have been doing this for a while, it works great, everything I have put on top of it has been fine, as long as you let the primer fully cure. I am not alone with this method as a few others on here use the same method. Including one member who has done several cars like this since the early 1980s., not one of those cars has had the paint fall off, infact theree paint jobs still look good. Rusty metal primer block sands nice and smooth like you wouldn't believe, it can be coated over with anything as long as it is fully cured, even lacquer based primer/surfacer. I suggest any naysayer try this method of using rusty metal primer, before thinking it is inferior or will not work. I am not saying you are like this Dezeldoc, but lately I am pretty sensitive on this issue, cuz there are a lot of guys thinking this method is garbage, when I know it's not........Fred Quote
dezeldoc Posted February 3, 2009 Report Posted February 3, 2009 Don't mean to ruffle your feathers Fred, Just that I have been paintin cars for the past 35 yrs I used to own a restoration shop for 10 yrs. don't like to see people waste money and time on steps that are unnecessary. Quote
55 Fargo Posted February 3, 2009 Author Report Posted February 3, 2009 Don't mean to ruffle your feathers Fred, Just that I have been paintin cars for the past 35 yrs I used to own a restoration shop for 10 yrs. don't like to see people waste money and time on steps that are unnecessary. Hey Good Buddy, did not take it the wrong way, nor am I worked up about it. I am green yet as fas as car painting thats for sure. I do have a question though, my next step on this panel is shoot on 2 to 3 coats of high build 2 k urethane primer/surfacer. I will again block this with 220, and see what i got. My ? is, what should I use to block with on a rounded fender like this, there are straight sections, but if I try to block with a long board, or evn a rubber block, I am afraid of sanding thorugh to metal in a lot spots, because of the many contours. Any advice? Quote
dezeldoc Posted February 3, 2009 Report Posted February 3, 2009 No problem just trying to help and save ya a few bucks in the process! sent ya a PM. Quote
Rodney Bullock Posted February 3, 2009 Report Posted February 3, 2009 Thanx Rodney, she is a wavy old beast, every panel is got something wrong with it.I am going to be using a high build 2 k urethane primer surfacer, so that should help, lots of blocking will need to be done thats for sure. I may use the polyester primer on some areas, it's like shooting body filler in a liquid form...................Fred ps this is my really first old car project where I am doing the bodywork, so inexperience is really stacked against me Hey Fred, everybody had a first time:D if you use a long peice of wood wrapped in sand paper and some cheap black paint for a guide coat. You just spray a little over the surface than start sanding it will how you the high and low spots, don't put to much faith inhigh build primers, they can hurt your paint job. You have to get everything as thin as possible:D Quote
dezeldoc Posted February 3, 2009 Report Posted February 3, 2009 Rodney, with the high build you can block the heck out of it and get out most dings and stuff, plus when you are done the film thickness is pretty thin. plus it seals out a lot and won't let it come through. Quote
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