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Posted

Did a seach on 'sender', cut and pasted needed instructions and the today removed the tank. The good news is that the tank shines on the inside in every direction I could look and the cork float is intact and looks good, it was a dry as a popcorn fart, so. . . I thought I was home free,

THEN I noticed the front of the tank was overly dirty. PIN HOLES in an other wise very solid tank. What to do? cover the area over with Gorrilla glue? Suggestions are invited.:(

Posted

You could try using an expoxy on the holes, and then clean up the outer surface and use a fiberglass patch on the front portion, or have it professionaly lined. Mike

Posted

Ive fixed tanks with pin holes with POR-15 , will seal holes up to pencil size and larger areas press fibreglass cloth in to it then paint more over it , Ive done 3 tanks and no problems... oldest one is going on 7 years

Posted

Guess I got to get some POR-15. Seems it is useful for many things. Is this the same stuff someone used on their 'rusty' floor board pieces?

Posted

You probably should replace those cork floats on the sender while you're at it. My tank didn't have any leaks, just a lot of crud on the bottom. I cleaned it out and lined it with a product I bought from a radiator shop. No problems after four years. I also gave the cork floats a coat or two of shellac, but after several months I was not getting correct readings on my gas gauge and when I pulled the sending unit to test it I found that the floats had started to disintegrate. I suspect it was the alcohol in modern gas - ate away the diaphragm on my original fuel pump, too. I guess it's the price we pay for progress! Zeke

Posted

I have sealed rusty and leaking motorcycle tanks years ago with a product just for gas tanks. I have seen many product lines ckeck this one out:

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/Tank-Sealers_c_7-1-0.html

I do believe Eastwood makes one too. Check around the web for better priceing and read up on them. They have worked well for me in the past.

I have never tried it on a larger size car tank though, Spinning the larger size tank might be a bit more work, but its not that critical that you keep the tank moving that much while the solution sets up.

MMcKinney

Posted

I removed the flat plate on top of the flanges on the ends first. I had the outside of the tank blasted then used JB Weld on the multiple pinholes.

Posted

I would not recommend this for a tank that had fresh gas in it but one that's been empty for many years can be repaired by soldering. I have an old soldering iron that is heated away from the tank with a torch then used on the tank to solder up any pin holes. It's a tedious process because you have to go back and forth to keep the iron hot. Use the normal clean up process on the tank so the solder sticks good. I have never had one leak doing it this way. Course I'm old and have lots of time on my hands! LOL Mike

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