Modifying lowering blocks

[Normspeed]

Guys, I have a pair of 2 1/4" aluminum blocks and I want to cut them down to around 1 1/2 or so, for a little less drop. I have only the basic tools, hacksaw, belt sander, etc. Anyone have any suggestions on how to cut these down properly, or suggestions on what type of shop might be able to do this for me? These are the narrow blocks for Plymouth leaf springs so I don't want to wreck them, they're kinda hard to find.

Right now I'm leveling the car by adding a little air to the air shocks to match the front drop, but that makes the ride a little rough.

[Don Coatney]

Norm;

Not sure if aluminum will work well for lowering blocks. Aluminum (being softer than steel) is somewhat compressible. I would think the aluminum would compress and distort over time with the pressure from the U-bolts and the spring action as the rear wheels pass over bumps.

If you elect to use them have a machine shop mill them down to size. A hack saw will produce a hack job and aluminum will "load-up" the abrasive material on a belt sander.

[Normspeed]

I may be wrong, they might be some other alloy, but they look like aluminum. Isn't that what the modern blocks are made of? Or maybe magnesium?

[Plymouthy Adams]

chances are they are aluminum..many are made of this material as are the wedges for altering your phase in the driveline. To have them milled would be ideal...belt sander will load up..you may be able to cut these with a band saw if you go slow..just be sure that when you cut the bottom section, you have enough depth left in your alignment hole to porperly locate to the leaf spring.

[rearview]

If you're willing to pay shipping both ways to Chicago area, I'd gladly mill them down for you.

Bob

[Normspeed]

Bob, thanks for the offer. I'll check with the local shops and also check on shipping costs, I imagine it wouldn't be a lot. I plan to drill the alignment holes deeper before cutting down the height of the blocks. This weekend I'll let all the air out of the rear shocks to determine just how much needs to be shaved.

[Olddaddy]

If you want to send them all the way to Florida I can cut them for you and make sure they are still useable afterwards. Otherwise, most any welding shop in your area probably has a saw that will do the trick. I'd be happy to do it as I owe you a favor anyways. Charlie.

[rearview]

Bob, thanks for the offer. I'll check with the local shops and also check on shipping costs, I imagine it wouldn't be a lot. I plan to drill the alignment holes deeper before cutting down the height of the blocks. This weekend I'll let all the air out of the rear shocks to determine just how much needs to be shaved.

Can do the holes also if you need. Just let me know, always glad to help.

Bob

[Guest rockabillybassman]

I say leave them. The taildragger look is very cool!

[Normspeed]

I like that look too but on a wagon it doesn't come across that well. I got a pair of fender skirts with the car and same thing there. I'm saving them for another project. On a hardtop though, a whole different story. This one would make a great taildragger.

I say leave them. The taildragger look is very cool!

[concord3p]

Hi Norm, that is one good looking Station Wagon. The Hardtop looks like it won't need much to get it going also. I have a similar 53 Hardtop that is in the process. I have found all of the parts that I need, including an overdrive tranny, and just need to get to work. I will retire in less than a year and then watch out.

[Normspeed]

Thanks, the wagon is too much fun. The hardtop, I snitched that photo, probably from someone that posted it here. I have a friend in Fla that has a nice hardtop. He's a street rodder and just hasn't "become one" with his Plymouth and I think he will eventually sell it off. Nice car though.