Picklex 20 Not Impressed

[55 Fargo]

Hi all, recently bought a 1 pint spray bottle of Picklex 20 Rust Convertor for $37.00 plus tax, it is highly recommended by the Autobodystore.com website.

It is a non-toxic bio friendly 1 step metal rust prep, made in Huntsville Alabama.

I was tring it on the inner body portion behind the rear fenders, I had previuosly used a desic sander, and 3M roloc discs to clean up the area, all the heavy surface rust was removed.

I sprayed on this prodcut, and wiped it off after a few minutes as directed, the metal looked like it had a coating on it, but was still the same color, it did better on super shiny bare steel, but if I had my metal all to super shiny bare steel, I would not need this highly espoused product.

Well I am not impressed, my regular Phosphoric Acid products like Sems Rust Mort, work a lot better, they turn the ligtly rusted steel to grey or black, this stuff has done diddly squat.

Have any of you guys ued this product, is it posssible I am not using it correctly?......................Thanx Fred

[PatS....]

Fred, from what I read about Picklex, you need to have rust for it to do it's thing. If you're down to bare metal, there's nothing for the chemical reaction to react with.

I have not used it, but like you I read that it was God's gift to derusting.

[55 Fargo]

Pat I can tell if there is a slight amount of rust on almost bare metal it seems to do it's job. I am currently trying it on a large rusty C clamp, it is lightly surface rusted, it seems to be doing something on this piece after about 3 applications, but nothing like the picture of the rusty wrench on the Autobodystore.com website.

The trouble with my area I am working on the car is this, the surface rust is on top of the paint and prmer, when you sand off the rust, the paint and rpimer is under it.

I am going to clean up this area a bit more, either hit it with the Picklex 20 or Phos Acid, then Primer with Tremclad red oxide rusty metal primer, before I topcoat everything under there................Fred

[Norm's Coupe]

I just read the information on the website. It does say on the page that it is a "Rust Converter". However, on the bottle label they picture it says "Rust Stop". A rust stop and a rust converter are two different animals, they are not the same. So.........one will not react the same as the other. Rust stop will encapsulate the rust and check it from spreading further. Rust converter will chemically convert the rust to a plastic coating.

Since they say in the page that it encapsulates the rust, my guess is it's actually a rust stop like the bottle says and not a converter that will turn to a plastic black coating.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Fred..that stuff does work well..and the residue left behing is a antirust coating..I have used it..buddy gave me a gallon of it when he moved to Washington state..I still perfer the phosphoric acid as it is not near as caustic as the picklex should you get a bit of the mist on you while prepping a panel.

[55 Fargo]

Fred..that stuff does work well..and the residue left behing is a antirust coating..I have used it..buddy gave me a gallon of it when he moved to Washington state..I still perfer the phosphoric acid as it is not near as caustic as the picklex should you get a bit of the mist on you while prepping a panel.

Okay Tim, I will continue using it. Don't forget though, I am not sandblasitng this inner area, I am only using discs, and wirebrush, sanding etc, so it does not come of as clean as sandblasintg. I have a lot of pitting where the fender bolts to the body, not all of it, but about a 1/3. So I am trying to get these areas de-rusted as much as possible, the rusty metal primer will be applied on this area with a roller, hopefully it will fill in the pit areas. This will be followed by Black tremclad paint mixed with hardener, or I will undercoat with a Shutz gun..........Fred ps I spilt this stuff on my sef a bit, did not feel it, at least not on my hands, but I also used to spill the Phos Acid on my hands and barely felt it too, maybe I am desensitzed.......LOL

[55 Fargo]

I just read the information on the website. It does say on the page that it is a "Rust Converter". However' date=' on the bottle label they picture it says "Rust Stop". A rust stop and a rust converter are two different animals, they are not the same. So.........one will not react the same as the other. Rust stop will encapsulate the rust and check it from spreading further. Rust converter will chemically convert the rust to a plastic coating.

Since they say in the page that it encapsulates the rust, my guess is it's actually a rust stop like the bottle says and not a converter that will turn to a plastic black coating.[/quote']

Hi Norm, apparently it supposed to do both actions, rust convertor/rust stop. It is a non-toxic product, is rated as one of the best, I am not 100% convinced, but I have it now, so will use it. This stuff is very expensive, is endorsed by the autobodystore.com. A lot of guys that use it like it, maybe I did not give it a fair trial, plus my shop was on the cool side, if that has anything to with it, when I tried itmy garage temp was only 40........................Fred

[Norm's Coupe]

Fred,

Like I said, I only know what it says on that web site that you posted. However, I do know the difference between a rust stop and a rust converter. (see link: http://www.indfloorcoating-repair.com/genmaint.html ). We make and sell a rust converter our self for industrial use. Years ago we also made and sold a rust stop in addition to the rust converter.

When you encapsulate you seal the rust in so it can't spread. When you convert the rust, you change the chemical make up of the rust. It's sort of the same when you seal a pipe in a building that has been covered with a wrap containing asbestos so it can't get out. You coat it to "encapsulate" the wrap so the asbestos can't get out, you don't convert the asbestos to a different type of material.

That said. Why do they tell you to wipe it off after putting it on? It would seem that you would be wiping off the cleaner/converter (whatever it is). Not saying the stuff won't work, or doesn't work good, just don't understand why you would want to wipe it off after applying it to do a job.

Getting back to one of your other statements about it remaining the same color. A true rust converter will only change colors when it comes in contact with rust. If there is no rust, or you put it on a painted surface, it will cure clear. So that may answer part of your question.

[Norm's Coupe]

When you have a question, go to the horses mouth for the answers. I guess that product is made by International Chemical Products. Here's the page on their site that explains how it works. http://picklex20.com/ They call it a rust converter/remover, not a rust stop.

[55 Fargo]

Fred' date='

Like I said, I only know what it says on that web site that you posted. However, I do know the difference between a rust stop and a rust converter. (see link: [url']http://www.indfloorcoating-repair.com/genmaint.html[/url] ). We make and sell a rust converter our self for industrial use. Years ago we also made and sold a rust stop in addition to the rust converter.

When you encapsulate you seal the rust in so it can't spread. When you convert the rust, you change the chemical make up of the rust. It's sort of the same when you seal a pipe in a building that has been covered with a wrap containing asbestos so it can't get out. You coat it to "encapsulate" the wrap so the asbestos can't get out, you don't convert the asbestos to a different type of material.

That said. Why do they tell you to wipe it off after putting it on? It would seem that you would be wiping off the cleaner/converter (whatever it is). Not saying the stuff won't work, or doesn't work good, just don't understand why you would want to wipe it off after applying it to do a job.

Getting back to one of your other statements about it remaining the same color. A true rust converter will only change colors when it comes in contact with rust. If there is no rust, or you put it on a painted surface, it will cure clear. So that may answer part of your question.

Thanx Norm, good question about why the product needs to be wiped off, according to the manufacturer, you wipe the excess off, then allow the solution to fully dry before priming. The solution needs to be dried off, without any residue or build up, the residue could cause moisture or poor adhesion for the primer/and/or paint.

I tried it on a piece of tin, that had very slight surface rust, within a minute or 2 after applying on the Picklex, I wiped it off, the rust just wiped right off, the metal was a silvery grey. It worked very well on very light flash rust on a piece of sheet metal. This product should be great on exterior panels, where you either blast to the metal, or you have sanded it down to mostly bare steel, but rust pits existy, those little tiny black rust dots, the Picklex can then be used as a metal conditioner prioer to primer and paint...........Thanx Fred

[55 Fargo]

When you have a question' date=' go to the horses mouth for the answers. I guess that product is made by International Chemical Products. Here's the page on their site that explains how it works. [url']http://picklex20.com/[/url] They call it a rust converter/remover, not a rust stop.

I have spoken to the company Norm, the gent has a very thick foreign accent, had a bit of a hard time understanding him, may phone him again sometime........Fred

[PatS....]

Fred, here is the Canadian Distributor's site. They have an enquiries page if you still need some info:

http://www.ashjentech.com/