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The seat of the heater control valve has some pitting and corrosion. I don't have a good seal because I can blow through the valve even when fully closed. Is there a way to refurbish the valve seat to prevent it from bypassing? On the other hand, the silvery colored tubular valve stem has two 1/4 inch slits cut into it at the seating surface which appear to allow a small amount of coolant to bypass through the valve even when closed. Why the engineers wanted to allow a small leak past the seat is a mystery to me. But the main issue is the valve seat.

Dear Gentlemen, fellows My Dodge WC 3/4 ton from 43 is equipped with an original Flat 6 with 230 cubic inch, Type T-214. 93 SAE at 3200 Rpm, 6,7:1 compression, Carburetor Zenith, 6 Volt equipment. Normal valve adjustment following the technical manual from us army: inlet and outlet 0,010 inch go and 0,012 inch nogo in hot conditions. Original text: "Run the engine at idling speed until it reaches normal temperature. Hold the tappet with wrench and adjust the screw until a 0,010 inch feeler gage will not (I think this "not" is a typo in the original manual) go between the adjusting screw and valve stem, but a 0,012 ich feeler gage will not go between the adjsuting screw and valve stem on both intake and exhaust valves" On the weekend I adjusted my engine valves as described in the TM and the Technical Tips (very useful, many thanks!) in this forum I pre-adjusted in cold with still standing engine Inlet: 0,012 and outlet: 0,014 I started the engine, heating it up in idle to 160 degrees water temp I re-adjusted the valves again to inlet and outlet both to 0,01 inch in hot and running condition (I was only able to do it on cylinders 1,2,3 while running the engine, the others I did just after stopping the engine. Accessability was absolutely catastrophic and I got the same skin troubles as many of you....) I realized that I had to reduce the gap a lot on both valve types, inlet and outlet to get to 0,01 in hot condition Then I stopped working on the engine and let it cool down through 8 hours until I could feel no heat any more Then I measured the valve gap again on all valves in that cold condition, Result was 0,01 on inlet and 0,012 on outlet (so only the outlet showed more gap after cooling down) Then, maintening this adjustment, I gave all outlet valves a little bit of more gap so that the feeler gage passed easily without any bigger resistance with 0,12 (outlet only), 0,14 wouldnt pass. I kept the Inlet valves as adjusted in hot conditions. I would like to get your opinions on the following, because I dont have a lot of experience with that engine: I observed that between cold and hot condition inlet valves shows nearly 0 gap difference, meanwhile the outlet shows 0,005 difference. Does anybody of you experienced the same? adjusting the valves in running and hot conditions is something for the heroes, after several wounds I decided not to be one of them. In addition, I noticed that for me! a precise adjustment with running and hot engine is not really possible because you cant feel the resistance of the gage while passing the gap. So my conclusion is, having the previous measurement as listet above in mind, that a cold adjustment with inlet 0,01 and outlet 0,012 should exactly meet the requirements of the TM in hot conditions. What do you think? And please forgive me my German English... Thanks in advance and best regards

Picked up an inspection camera at Harbor Freight today to look at the condition of my valves. Thought I would share the results with the forum since there may be others like me who are too lazy to pull the head just to inspect them. This was taken from their more pricey camera which came to around $130 after the 20% off coupon and tax. Of note, I used the cheaper camera that was around $60 first but ended up returning it. The cheaper camera looks just about as good for picture quality but does not have the ability to save pictures to a memory card or directly to your pc. For me, I thought paying double was worth it but others probably won't. Also, I think you might be able to find cheap $30 scopes on Amazon that connect to your phone but not sure if they are any good.

Hi, I am new to this stuff. Just bought a 1951 B3b. I am learning about this thing slowly, but found something I couldn't figure out. There is a valve of some sort in my front intake manifold. The valve is spring loaded, and there is a lever on it that looks like it might be moved with a cable of some sort. It is not the heat riser, 'cause it is just below it on the exhaust manifold. I don't have a clue.