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Hi all. Noticing something new today. My carb is "damp" with fuel. Not just one place. See pix. Leak, or a mist overflowing from above? Any experience with this condition?

Hi, I am Michael , new member here from Marmora Ontario Canada. Purchased a 1951 S15 custom Desoto original equipment all original and in good condition. It runs and some things work and others don`t. I replaced the battery cables with number 1 copper and heavy soldered terminals I had the carb rebuilt but feel that it may not have been done properly since a linkage was unattached and words like `don`t need that part` were said. I finally put the linkage back in the right place. There are three wires going to the carb two to the top with terminals and one to the drivers side of the carb halfway up. I do have a manual with a wiring diagram and I do have a meter and continuity buzzer. I would like to know exactly where these wires should go and what there purpose is. Unfortunately the wires have been joined to the original harness and the colours have been lost, they may be in the wrong place.. I also do not know what and where the parts are that the wiring diagram identifies such as the automatic transmission controls .....are they on the transmission? The 30 amp circuit breaker is that on that square box with four terminals ? Is it possible for someone to interpret the wiring to the carb the coil and to that 4 terminal box and outline in simple terms where those wires should go? The second issue I have is the choke and carb again. If I pour gas in the carb it will start and then run ok. The manifold auto choke wire should go exactly where? and when you turn the key should it close the choke butterfly and hold it closed in the start position only? Should the gas peddle be pumped a lot to start? I did notice that the carb pump does put fuel in the venture. Does the ignition capacitor sit on top of the generator? Where can I get a new ignition switch? Thank you for your help. I tried to upload photos but the files are too big.

I have seen a lot of threads about my issue, but no answer. Hard to tune-up my car when the idle mixture screw doesn’t change the idle. Many said you, “must have a manifold leak.” Re-installed manifolds with new gaskets. Rebuilt the carb no change. A member of my Plymouth club brought his carburetor to my house one night after I re-installed the manifolds. He installed his carburetor, and I quote, “I hope my engine runs this smooth after I get it back together.” So, I must be doing something wrong with my carb that I’m not seeing. I have disassembled and cleaned my carburetor, made new gaskets because the others had center holes that were bigger than the throat of the carb (Summit Racing). This carburetor is cleaner than most of the coffee cups I used in the Army. What am I doing wrong or what am I missing.

Three of the threaded holes for the air horn mounting screws were stripped by a previous owner. The screws are 10-24 RH so I ordered a Helicoil kit from McMaster-Carr, kit part number 91732A914. I wasn't sure at first whether it would be wise to change over to fine threads, but some online research told me that fine threads would be wrong for a soft metal like aluminum (too easy to strip) so I stuck with 10-24. Only other considerations were to remove the float and drain the gas out of the bowl (which I sucked out with a syringe) before drilling to avoid starting a fire and to mask off the carb body to avoid chips falling into the carb. Problem solved. I helicoil'd all four holes and I replaced the screws with allens because one of my originals was mismatched and I couldn't find the right style at the hardware store. . Finished...

Hello new to the forum. I decided to rebuild the carburetor on my 1948 Plymouth Special deluxe, and I'm kind of glad I did. There was a coating of rust sludge in the bottom of it but it still ran pretty good. I need a new float and float pin, I've found the float but I can't find the float pin. Does anyone know of any alternatives for a float pin, even if I have to modify an existing one? Also, are there any other alternatives to the carter carburetor that would bolt up in the stock location without modifying too much? I'm running the stock air bath air filter and I'd like to keep it looking stock. Thank you!

Any old timers willing to help a noob with a little tune up. I recently bought a 1946 business coupe off of my Grandpa and got it out to California. The car runs but will die and then is hard to start plus is running a little rough any way. The car has sat for about 12 years but it fired right up and I have been able to drive it some. It needs to be a little more reliable. I am mechanical but this thing is new to me and would love a little help and to get to know some locals with the same car. I am located in East Pasadena.

I am trying to replace my carb on my 1940 Plymouth P-9 The carb I bought has the wrong size at the base. it measures 2 1/2 between the studs The base is 3 1/2 I need one larger. My question is there a carb with a base stud to stud that is larger than 2 1/2 inches? Thanks in advance.

I've read a lot of threads on servicing carburetors in these forums and have learned a lot. I still have a nagging question though. My problem is with the middle circuit. It idles great. Starts great. Runs like a scared cat when you hit the pedal to the floor. But when you want to accelerate, it is awful. I know one of the things that will help me is soaking or replacing that accelerator plunger. But that does nothing for the passages the feed it. I liked the Pine-sol and water 2:1 solution, or the Clorox toilet bowl cleaner. Not so rough on the environment or the wife's yard. But what I am really interested in is getting those small passages. I need them cleaned and cleared. A lot of the conversations turn to what gives the better appearance which I am not concerned with. I started to wonder if the authors were using the outside appearance as a guide to what the inside must look like. So am I off my rocker thinking that I will achieve a good complete cleaning of internal passages with such a non caustic soaking method? Thanks in advance Mike

So I've been wondering this for a while, taking the pics for Hank yesterday it highlighted it again for me. In normal light it doesn't look as bad as with the camera flash, but is this a "normal" look for a carb? Seems it should be cleaner than it is.... is it leaking near the input? Or along the interface between the halves? OR?????