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I just wanted to recognize our fellow Forum member, Go Fleiter, for the help he’s provided my friend and I in obtaining rare parts from Europe for his 1948 Peugeot woody wagon. It seems to be one of two left in the US, which makes the parts hunting quite fun! Two in the Country: 1948 Peugeot Woodie WagonWe needed to purchase three engine main bearings and as far as we could tell the only ones available anywhere were for sale from a French vendor who wouldn’t ship to the United States (or non-EU countries)I reached out to Go. He received the parts from the French company, mailed them to my friend in California and then wouldn’t take any money for the postage suggesting we donate the amount to a charity to help with the situation in Ukraine. Interesting note: the original box has a 1960 date- obviously NOS! Thanks Go! This camaraderie and willingness to help is what makes our hobby so fulfilling.

Hi Folks, first post here. I have a 51 Dodge B3 B I am putting back on the road after sitting for a good while in the Seattle "sun" (that would be rain BTW), At some point another owner decided to replace the stock rear end and install what I found to be a 56 Desoto rear end (1141544 68 and what looks like a "0" in a small square box on the rear end). Wheel hubs which are 12", were a bitch to remove as were the axles, Im using lots of anti-seize compound going back together. I bought brake and seal parts for the Fireflite and they fit it fine. As the inner seal was leaking on the rear end I ordered a new set of seals and as I was putting it all back together and cleaning the old grease out of the wheel bearings I found some really burned bearings and super gouges in the races on both sides, so new bearing time. I decided to look up new bearings on rockauto and amazon. I took the part numbers from the Timken bearing and race and plugged it in a search, said it didnt fit the 56 Desoto. A bit of looking on rockauto after measuring the race made me believe it might be a heavy duty rear end. Lord only knows and I hope someone on here also! So the removed bearings/race are numbered TIMKEN 25877 & 25821 which translates to a "Tapered Bearing & Race 25877/25821 1 Set 260" which I can find on amazon no problem. Now to me it seems like a no brainer here, get old part number from part, order new of same, install, go. But hey I confess Im geting old and you know beginning to second, OK third or fourth guess myself. Can anyone here shed any light on what the rear end is and if they have any thoughts on going with the same Timken part #s? Cheers and thanks for yalls help. Jonk

Wanted to share this with the forum. I just placed the order so we shall see if it turns out as good as I'm hoping for. The bearings in my 3 speed manual tranny were as follows: pp# MRC207 SFG (main pinion drive bearing shielded one side),##note##thxs to DB4YA I knew the shielding on one side was important and has to be there. pp#MRC207 S (main shaft front bearing) pp#MRC206 S (main shaft rear bearing) My understanding is that the main pinion drive bearing is typically the one that will go bad 1st, and sure enough when I checked these (as instructed by PlymouthyAdams) it was the one of the three that was noisy. Wasn't finding much on the MRC part number, however did find where it had been previously discussed here on the forum once before, and DB4Ya had helped another member cross the original Mopar part number (619167), over to a Federal Mogul p# of 1207SL....I thinking like other company's and in respect to the economy, they can sell off/ merge/ etc...seems like business as usual these days, anyway - the best luck I was having on the 1207SL part number was under Timken. The bearing looked correct by description, so I'm thinking Federal Mogul and Timken may all be the same now,.. lastly here, I'm a newbie, that's learning,..but even I can understand the importance of quality in respect to bearings,...and Timken is a name I've seen since I was young..however today when I discovered that MRC is a division of SKF,and that they were USA made, I purchased a full replacement set (all 3 bearings) MRC207SFG, MRC207S and MRC206S, for a total of $42.00 + $13.00 (4 day shipping) = $55.00 to my door from locate ballbearings.com. According to the Fella I spoke with (Mark Hoffman, see the info below), by ordering through him, I cut out the middleman....he told me he stocked and sold quite a few of the bearings I purchased, that he recognized the numbers, etc...course, only he and the man upstairs know if that's actually true or not. Typically I've learned, " if it seems to good to be true, it probably is - too good to be true ", so I was/still am a bit skeptical, but I needed to make a decision and pulled the trigger and ordered from them....so well see, I suppose. Just wanted to share this info with the group, as the prices I was getting on a Timken 1207SL bearing were ranging from around $70 + shipping and upwards towards a $ Benjamin. I'll follow up with this, once they are received, etc.. Mark HoffmanLocate Ball Bearingswww.locateballbearings.commark@locateballbearings.com75090 St. Charles Place, Suite BPalm Desert CA 92211 Steve

I'm doing a total rebuild of my 218 engine. The engine is completely disassembled except for the cam bearings. Before I remove them, I thought it would be a good idea to measure both the existing cam shaft journals and cam bearing inside diameters to see what the clearances are. (The #4 bearing is cast into the block and is not replaceable so I'm not including it in the discussion.) I found some things that surprised me: Q1. The #1 and #3 bearing and journal sizes were different by a whopping .064 (not .0064). Shouldn't the #1, #2, and #3 bearings and journals be almost identical in size? Q2. Measuring bearing inside diameters is not easy. I used an inexpensive Chinese telescoping gauge along with a top notch Starett micrometer for the measurements, but getting consistent readings using telescoping gauges was hard to do. Using the telescoping gauge, consecutive readings of the same bearing often differed by anywhere from zero to .002 or even .003. What's the best method of measuring cam bearing diameters? Has anyone else had trouble with making these measurements. Q3: How can I order the correct size replacement bearings when I have these crazy differences in sizes between the three bearings and journals? Should I just replace the cam and all the bearings in order to obtain consistent sizes and clearances among the three?