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When I purchased our '48, there were a bunch of parts in the trunk, including a water pump which appears to be new (no box) Is there a way to test the pump if it's off the engine? Thanks!

I have a 1933 201 water pump that is "weeping" minor amounts of water. I see numerous water pumps for 230s, 1935 and forward and wondering if I use the back plate that fits between the block and the pump, from my 201 water pump, and block the heater port on top, can I use a 230 water pump with a 201 back plate on a 1933 201? OR... better yet, does anyone know where I might purchase a rebuilt 201 waterpump?

Every day driver is a 1941 GMC truck. We call it a little mule and it has been turning over and running as good as it probably did the day it was pulled off the lot 80 years ago. Only swap out was the flathead 6 for a 71 350SB (done by prior owner), and 6 to 12 volt system. The issue: Overheats (never use to) Details: Warms up nicely to 180° within 16 to 20 minutes - with the electric fan running during idle. At roughly 25 minutes weather pressing the excelerator to force some more coolant into the block or hitting the road and driving, it creeps up to 190 (we know 190 to 200 is often said as a healthier engine temperature BUT it is always ran at 180 and never went beyond that until recently) my 25-30min. Prior to 35 minutes when driving or tapping the accelerator when at idle the temperature gauge will drop down to 180, then back up to 190, then back to 185 when tapping excelerator, then up to 195, and then after 35 to 40 minutes tops it slowly continues to rise to 200, 220 and keeps going up beyond 230 (we have course back off and work on calling it down once it starts creeping beyond 200). What we have done during diagnosis: Replaced hoses, replaced thermostat, drilled two small holes inside of thermostat before installing to allow ongoing circulation (the old thermostat had this done as well by prior owner), replaced radiator cap, replaced water pump, flushed radiator and block with radiator flush (twice), burped of course after replenishing coolant, and remedied any minor leaks. When running top coolant hose is hot as it should be. Bottom coolant hose is very warm but not hot (as I believe it should be given it personally called fluid into the water pump and block). As we see the temperature gauge start to climb above 190° we realize that the bottom coolant hose seems to be almost as hot (based on from touch) as the top coolant hose. ***Is this a possible sign that the radiator is not cooling the fluid well enough once reaching higher temperatures? Signs: No white smoke is coming out of tail pipes, motor turns over nicely at cold start, no traditional signs of a blown head gasket (although we’re not narrowing out anything at this point), not seeing any leaks in the colon system. The 350 just doesn’t want to stay below 190 as mentioned above. Where the trouble started: Was on the road on a hot day and overheated. We’ve been in these conditions before and it stayed strong at 185. When we pulled over and checked under the hood the lower coolant line popped off the bottom of the radiator. Not sure if that was just due to a loose bracket, for too much pressure built up somewhere in the corn system due to blockage and forced it off. At this point we allowed at the cool, reconnected the lower coolant hose, checked all other hoses and fittings, refilled with coolant, burped, and everything was running nicely for about two weeks; thereafter the overheating begin we begin our attempted diagnosis in changing out basic parts to eliminate possibilities. Many thanks, Jason and the AOA team

Greetings and salutations! Currently I’m doing an engine swap on a 1941 Plymouth sedan, no updates, still a 218. Using the original service manual has answered most of my questions. I am stuck on a few things. One, what kind of gasket sealer should I use on the new water pump? Two, how do I know if an oil pump is good with the engine on a stand? Many thanks for any help!

Just found this excellent thread. Water Pumps. I have a 1950 (P20) 218 engine that came from a local hotrod shop- a young guy in Kerman CA who collect and restores 1950 Plymouth Suburbans. He sold me this motor with a Wilcap adapter that will allow it to bolt up to a GM automatic tranny (I'm using a TH 200 4R) He said it was running and driving great when he had it, but the 218 didn't have enough off-the-line power for him. It has the '53 and later internal bypass thermostat, and straight neck and it looks just like JB Neal's pictures , including a newer NAPA water pump. Am I understanding correctly that even though the new NAPA water pump will work with both pre and post '52 block designs, using the internal type on the older external blocks will lead to warmup and/or operational problems?

Pleade provide me with your opinions of Chinese made Gates 42554 Water Pump as a replacement for my 1941 Chrysler Windsor L6 cyl.242ci before I purchase. Thanks in advance Richard 1941

New topic: Water pump removal. Just had a broken valve spring fixed and car runs great.........Well, now that I've been running it, it now has now developed a leak at the water pump. It looks like the leak is coming from where the fan pulley attaches to the water pump. How difficult is it to remove/repair/reinstall the water pump? When I was just looking at the water pump housing, it seems like the cylinder head is in the way of removing a bolt to take off the water pump assembly--unless that is a bolt that is for the back plate of the water pump (maybe called 'cover plate'??? not sure if I am using the correct nomenclature). I wouldn't think that the head would be in the way for any bolts that hold on the water pump assembly. When reading the 1949-1950 Chrysler shop manual it didn't mention anything about the head being in the way. Here is exactly what the manual says for the REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF WATER PUMP: (1) Drain cooling system; (2) Remove fan belt and disconnect water pump hose; (3) Remove bolts holding water pump to engine block and lift out water pump and fan assembly. Is it really that easy? Am I just making is seem complicated? I am looking forward to some suggestions. Thanks Guys! On another note, where can I find the parts that I need for my car? I have been using Andy Bernbaum, but I've had difficulty with their customer service when they sent me the wrong part...its been over 3 weeks and still haven't received the correct part (I am not exaggerating) but they charged me immediately for the wrong part....

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/oumhepqixbxhirm/AADUrLC8kU_nIwHP_1rtqJ-Va?dl=0 Hey guys, I just bought this water pump on amazon. The shaft turns really smooth and it actually seems to be a well built pump. My only concern is this hole in the side of the pump that exposes the shaft. Could it be possible that someone on the line forgot to tap it and put a grease fitting in?

My 41 flathead plym p12 special deluxe overheated and overflowed out of radiator at idle today after 15 minutes. I Fill 2 inches below cap line .. Temp gauge maxed out than stuck at high end.... is there a fix or did I break it. Any experience on this. Temp should run between 160 to 180 I have read. 50/50 coolant mix non pressure cap thermostat 160 or 180 I have a new pump and a flushed system...running too lean possible....altitude is 5000 asl in Colorado.??Thanks if anyone can help... My granpappy passed and I lost the brains of the old school mechanic.

Hey guys, Super excited to say that I finally got all the necessary parts to get my P11 running! With that first step out of the way, I can now focus on all of the bits to get it running right and reliably. The first and biggest issue I've found is that it gets hot, and when shut off it pukes out cold water. I originally thought this was just the thermostat stuck, so I removed it but still experienced the same symptoms. What I'd like to know is what my next steps should be: I do plan on flushing the whole system just to see what I'm really working with, is there an easy way to test if the water pump is functioning properly? Is there anything else that I'm overlooking that could be preventing coolant flow? All original everything. I actually got all of the original electrical equipment to work and charge, save for the horns, haven't successfully troubleshooted that.. any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated!

I replaced my water pump twice but it still has a drip from off the oilpan near the front. Could it be a leak from a timing cover bolt? I don't remember if any of these bolts go thru to the water jackets in the block. My Engine is from a 1946 Dodge 218 or 230 I think, but it came in my 1934 Plymouth when I bought it. I love the way it runs and drives, but this has become pretty annoying. AJ

Hi, can someone please guide me as to where I could find a water pump for my above car or a suitable option. Thanks and regards.

It's time to replace the waterpump on my 47 P15. I have been having a tough time finding water pump grease so I would like to get a permenantly lubricated pump. I have the one with the external bypass. Can it be done?

So Ive replace the thermostat (180) and water pump and my 48 Plymouth is overheating. After about 15 mins. of warm up Im getting steam from, what appears to be, the overflow tube. I have checked for vac. leaks and timing and everything seems to be correct. I was running straight water at the time but didnt expect this after just 15 minutes. Im taking the radiator down for a flush and flow test tomorrow. Im worried they'll want to just re-core it, another $2-300 I've heard. Also wondering if I should pull the water distribution tube while the radiator is out and replace it. I did flush the system and everythings clear, which may be cause for concern if its so clogged it just flows clear water? Any tips or recommendations are appreciated!