Jim Gaspard

Should work if long enough.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1946-1948-1950-1952-1954-Plymouth-Dodge-DeSoto-Chrysler_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2ea5b257a5QQitemZ200348424101QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

During the summer U-Haul was selling some of their old moving carts for cheap. I bought one and welded up some supports for my flathead. It sure makes it a lot easier to move around and tinker. I may take it another step and get it running like Pflaming before putting it back.....no time soon. Body is taking forever.

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When # 1 or #6 are TDC, shouldn't rotor be pointing to 7 o'clock?

pull number one plug and bump the engine over with your thumb over the hole (disconnect the coil) when you fell compressing building against your thumb, rotate the engine over by hand till you reach TDC, rotor should be pointing at 7 oclock. Greg G

You can use plug wire #6 or #1 as they both will both strobe every second crankshaft revoloution. But if you want to really brighten the timing light connect the probe to the coil wire. This will cause the timimg light to read both #1 and #6 as well as the rest of the plugs. But the strobe will only indicate #1 and #6 but be much brighter. Don Coatney

The crankshaft goes around twice while the camshaft and distributor shaft go around once. So the first time around, No. 1 fires. The second time around, it's No. 6. Donald Smith

Number 1 and number 6 are both at top dead center at the same time. Don Coatney

1. You may still be 180 degrees off 2. If not then recheck to make sure your wires are in correct order.

Gene and I had a good visit Sunday in Dallas on his way from Corpus Christi back to his home in Columbus, Missouri. It gave him a short break during the hard drive & I enjoyed sharing our projects and talking shop. Sounds like he has quite a menagerie of vehicles on his farm. I saw where Gene had posted an offer to do some hauling south to north, and I will vouch for the fact he has an empty but nice 20 foot twin axle hauler behind a 350 Ram for hire.

I suspect because he has a beach house and sailboat in Rockport, Texas he will be making the backtrip again. It would be nice to also have some East to West (& vice versa) cross country hauling available among members for Pilothouse parts trading. I know I will eventually be ready to part with my B3C parts truck which has several pieces members are craving for.

You may want to give Gene a shout if you are looking to transport heavy parts along I-35 north of Columbus, MO to Canada. Beats UPS or Greyhound.

Isn't this a 1953 B-4, last of the Pilothouse B series? The 1954 C-1 has the same front grill set-up but went to a one piece front windshield among other more distinct model year changes.

Yeah, send us your wife's e-mail address and she might get a few dozen hints from your Pilothouse elf buddies. Of course, you still will need to be a good boy!

You'll be coming through Dallas on Interstate 35. If you need a rest stop, you can come by the house and talk shop and see my projects.

I'm adding this obvious step only because it hasn't been mentioned yet---use a small ball peen hammer thrust into the center of the plug to set it back in the opening, just enough to make a dimple. A little more difficult with the engine in, but do-able. Adding Grey Beard's Permatex hardener gives added insurance to prevent a spontaneous pop-out. Since our cooling system is not pressurized, there should be very little cause for this happening.

Remove water distribution tube. In this photo I put water pump back on to force water out of plug openings. There are numerous posts on the Forum regarding this procedure. Use Search feature. I drove a screwdriver into each plug and then twisted them out. Used a clotheshanger wire to loosen all the rusty crude and then forced a hose into each portal with high pressure water. Plugs are available at Napa or O'Reilly - Dorman 550-023.

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This all brings up a good question. I always thought there was a B4 Pilothouse which was a late 53 model of the B3 cab, frame, etc. The new C series in 54 changed the grill, front windshield (single glass), dash and rear fenders. I believe a V-8 was also offered for the first time.

My question: Is there a B4 model, and how as it different from the B3?

Good find. Welcome to the forum. Based on the the front grill style it is not a B3, but a B4 - 1/2 ton low bed delux five window cab. Manufacturing of the B4 started in late 1953. If you want to narrow it down, look for the serial number tag on the driver side post between the two door hinges, or the serial number is stamped on the side of left front frame just behind the left front wheel. A little steel wool will remove rust or paint and reveal the number. From that number you can find the approximate manufacture date, factory, model and year.

I sent you an e-mail regarding battery shelf. Thanks for salvaging and offering to members.

Reg, another feller with an old yeller.

1953 dodge truck engine,trans, parts for sale (manchester, new hampshire)

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Date: 2009-11-20, 9:56PM EST

Reply to: sale-w2btw-1475574271@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]

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have engine, three speed transmission, clutch assembly, bell housing, throw out bearing, flywheel, inspaection covers, and driveshaft for six cyl, half ton truck. will sell all or seperate. will ship smaller stuff. email shiftknob@gwi.net and please leave a contact number, or call skip at 603 622 5292 . please no calls after 8 at night eastern time. thanks.

Bud, congatulations on your travel companion. I have a 1953 Traveleze canned ham (akin to a Shasta) for my B3B. I plan to change the skin colors to match once I complete my restoration in the next decade. It's the perfect size and lightweight for our Texas back country travels.

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Reg, that was your cue!

I can hear a snicker all the way from MassZekeatusetts.

Well now, that's pretty definitive to me. It was made by Motorola as a Mopar radio for the 1953 B3's and B4's. The qwest for the holy grail continues.

I am not in the know like many of you, but have paid attention to all the 610T radio debates the last few years for my B108 driver and resto. I have even participated in the hunt on Google and e-Bay, and spent countless hours at swap meets looking at every vintage radio in piles of boxes looking for Eureka! What I have always found strange is that Dodge provided Mopar parts and accessories for all their vehicles, without many exceptions. The 610T I believe is a private brand Motorola radio and doesn't seem to fit into the usual Dodge radio nomenclature, but does fit the standard opening. Could it have been a rare after-market alternative to a Mopar radio. I would certainly want to see something definitive here because if the 610T is truly a Mopar factory issue, I will stay in the hunt.

Wow Fernando. Our very own "How its made". There aren't very many of these craftsmen still around. Thanks for sharing.

This forum is so much better and faster than Yellow Pages, and really the e-version of 'Let your fingers do the walking".

Yep, that sounds like badditude Bernbaum. I've always wondered if they realize how bad their phone side manners are.

Hey, hey, hey....watch it!

but hopefully mopar..(my perspective) .....there is even a sister Dodge truck site on this forum.....

Mario, I had forgotten just how great your website blog is. Its an excellent show & tell resource for many of us in various stages of restoration with logical pros and cons. Well done. I have bookmarked it for future reference on my B3 project. Do you still have your spare side mount, and a photo of the Jeep CJ bracket?

I may be off on this, but in our Pilothouse truck cooling system, its the temp rating of the radiator camp that's important, not the pressure rating. In fact, I don't think our radiators are meant to be under pressure at all. In modern car/truck radiators, pressure will raise the boiling point of radiator fluids, but that concept was not necessary in our era trucks.