PodSquad48

Well, its certainly not something I would do, even if money wasn't a factor... but... to each their own. I just bought a 56 Belvedere with a 350/350 setup (which will be quickly yanked and replaced with the Mother Brand)

I went to start the car (48 Special Deluxe)today and no luck, just a "click". I tested the relay and there is power from there to the starter. I pulled the starter and it appears the pinion is stuck in the "forward" position. According to my manual "as the starting motor pedal (switch) is depressed, the starting motor pinion and clutch are moved toward the flywheel ring gear." Seems that my starter is stuck in the engaged position, what causes this and is it repairable? No parts houses locally have a replacement for me. Any ideas or suggestions are appreciated, thanks!

I work in Outside Sales for a plumbing supply company. We provide high purity and chemical resistant pipe to a variety of industries. My territory deals specifically with mechanical contractors who install our piping, tanks, pumps, filters, and systems. Typically we are working in the Semiconductor, Pharmaceutical, Solar, and Water Treatment industries. I travel the San Francisco Bay Area providing technical assistance to our customers. Before that, I was a volunteer firefighter in Northern California. That station is now closed, guess we cant even afford Firefighters who work for free!

Good advice, maybe Im overthunkin' it! I'll try a secondary temp measurement and see what I come up with. Thanks again!

The gauge reads 170 #ut I'll have to verify, the Rad shop has been around since 54 and assured me he'll baby it. I'll try less water and see what happens, but I think I'll replace the dist. tube anyways. The hood was up. Im hoping its not ahead gasket, oils clean, and runs like a champ otherwise. Thanks for all the advice!

So Ive replace the thermostat (180) and water pump and my 48 Plymouth is overheating. After about 15 mins. of warm up Im getting steam from, what appears to be, the overflow tube. I have checked for vac. leaks and timing and everything seems to be correct. I was running straight water at the time but didnt expect this after just 15 minutes. Im taking the radiator down for a flush and flow test tomorrow. Im worried they'll want to just re-core it, another $2-300 I've heard. Also wondering if I should pull the water distribution tube while the radiator is out and replace it. I did flush the system and everythings clear, which may be cause for concern if its so clogged it just flows clear water? Any tips or recommendations are appreciated!

Thanks for the response guys, I also enjoyed all the R&R comments! By next week I should have her fully tuned and ready to go, another survivor back on the road...

Well, it seems the fan belt has got me! Went to replace it today and there isnt enough clearance between the balancer and the frame to remove it. I suppose I could jack the motor up, but am I missing something?! After almost 2 years of tinkering away, Im about ready to take the 48 coupe on its first voyage outside the neighborhood. I've replaced the entire brake and fuel system, amongst other things. Im laughing at myself for being stuck here! =)

so goes the old adage "if it sounds too good to be true it probably is!" or "if it aint broke dont fix it!" Think I'll just have Oreilly order the correct plugs!

I just replaced my fuel pump on my 48 plymouth. I got mine from Kanters but you could try Andy Bernbaum as well, good luck!

Good enough for the girls I go out with!

Oreilly didnt even have a listing for my 48 plymouth, 218! I gave them the autolite A7 and champion J8 #'s, the E3 is the only one they could cross reference. Just wondering if anyone tried em, or I can wait since they said they could order them.

I was wondering if anyone has heard of these. My local parts store had nothing on any of the plug models I gave them. The "E3" (model E3.12) is the only thing that crosses over. Should these be gapped the same as a standard plug? They're 6 bucks a pop! Maybe I'll wait and order them

Heres some pics off my Sharp manifold, a homemade job as I bought it. Im going to re-fab when Im ready, hope it helps!

I've got a Sharp dual carb setup w/ homemade linkage, its pretty basic and looks like it would be simple to fab. I'll snap some pictures tonight and post them for you

The boys at Tanks inc said the original sending unit "may not" fit, any experience with this?

Spent the extra time this weekend finishing the brakes on my 48 P15. New shoes, master cylinder, wheel cylinders, etc... and I'm happy! So I go to fire her up and she's struggling a bit to get going. As I go under the hood to prime her I notice the dreaded plastic burning smell. Long story short, the end of the negative battery cable is starting to melt. The cable is hot to touch, so is the starter relay... so is the cable from the relay to the starter! Could this simply be a bad relay thats keeping power flowing and overheating? I have a brand new Optima 6V and I hope I haven't ruined it! Any help/advice is greatly appreciated!

nice set up on some of these cars. I've got extra springs for my 48 P15 Im going to cut. My question is on the rear. I'd like to use a 2" lowering block which I can fab myself, but what about pinion angle, has anyone messed with this? I'm thinking you could bevel the bottom of the lowering block slightly to achieve the correct pinion angle. Couldnt find too much info in my search so I thought I'd ask,thanks guys!

Got mine recently from Andy Bernbaum, ran about $160 and I had it the same week, was stamped "Made In U.S.A."

Finally got the drums popped... with some not so gentle persuasion. Problem is I split the thread on the end of the axle shaft, about 2 threads deep. My mechanic buddy (don't we all have one?!) said he's done this several times and would cut the damaged thread off with a band saw, make up a "thinner" nut to replace the castle nut, and put a set screw on the new one. Anyone have experience with this? As a side note: This was worth the frustration, for everyone else out there... do not give up...they WILL come off! Thanks to everyone for their input!

I've read as much as possible on this subject here and STILL CANT GET THE HUBS OFF! This is my third weekend and Im not giving up. I already broke the rental hub puller. I've now got a very high quality puller, whacked it with a sledgehammer, doesnt even budge. I can't move the drums by hand more than a quarter turn, they do move when I tighten the hub puller. I've played with the shoe adjustments, I've tried heat, cant get these bast***S off. I keep thinking Im missing something, but everyone I've talked to as well as on here says the same thing. If I am hung up on the shoes somehow, what options do I have? I noticed in the manual that there is an oil drain plug below/behind the drum, if I pull that plug and PB Blast the hell out of it would I be getting the PB wear it needs to go/ I've already PB'd frm the front with no affect. Any help is greatly appreciated. I need to get the rear brakes n cylinders done and shes almost ready to go after 30 years in hibernation!

Getting ready to just purchase a new M/C instead of trying the rebuild route. Before I do, has anyone found a "dual" or "tandem" master cylinder that will work on our cars. It sure would be nice to have one that would accomodate the pedals. I know Wilwood and other aftermarkets are out there... though I dont want to have fab brackets and use new pedal assemblies. Any help is appreciated!

I will check em out!

PodSquad48. When I bought my 48 club coupe, there was a sticker in the rear window, looks like a sheriff star and says "Pod Squad". The sticker is still there, just cant figure out what it means, only thing close Ive found is Parents of Diabetics!

Thanks, Ive reviewed some of the brake jobs here, and it looks like Kanter or Andy Bernbaum is the best source for parts. Looks like the M/C and wheel cyls. alone are going to run me $300-350! I'll post my brake trials and tribulations when Im done!