Newbee
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Posts
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Everything posted by Newbee
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What great information. You mention that the air cleaners may be an issue for the hood. Is taking the balance tube off the solution? I do not have the exhaust flange to meet the manifold. May have to machine a part to fit unless you know where I could buy some. I would appreciate the shot of them apart. Is there a good work around for the linkage to work on the car? Thanks for your knowledge.
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Finally got the pictures off to you. Let me know what you think. RH
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Awesome shape, thanks!
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What disks and calibers does the Fatman kit call for?
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Thats great to hear thank you.
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That could have been factory it looks that good. Someone else said it but it is tucked in perfect.
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These parts are what made me decide to restore the car with a 6 flathead. I have a 3 speed overdrive that I plan to use. Should be a fun car to drive.
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Yes it is a Plymouth. I have a 265 from a 53 Windsor I bought to gain the 25 to replace the 23. Just now got the motor out from the Windsor. Pulled the head off and it has perfect barrels.
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Thank you I have a lot to consider.
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But does that rule out my stock hubcap? I want to drop the car a couple of inches and the front spindles from Farman require me to use disks. That is why I was looking at the rearend as well. I may need to rethink how I get the result I want, dropped and small hubcap. I also would like to get away from bolts to hold the rims. I should a little scarred here but I was trying to give you a little overview of my end direction.
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That could be interesting about the fit. I will let this post know if it works out. Thank you for your advice.
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So I guess you are saying that the 15 in wheel will clear the calibers? Thats my real concern.
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Ah got ya thanks!
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Ok so wise me up. I'm guessing your meaning a machine shop but how would they adjust the backspace?
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Here is a shot of the intake. I will let you know about the extra parts.
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I was lucky enough to me across this aluminium head with the casting markings of Desoto Chrysler so it appears to be a part that was produced for a 25. I was also able to obtain from the same seller the matching marked dual carb, split manifold with the original air cleaners. I have obtained a 53 Windsor that has the 25 so I can install it into a 50 Suburban that needs me to lift the radiator cap and drive another body under it.
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Can anyone tell me if a 2000 Ford Explorer rear end will let me use the stock 50 steel wheels? I want to upgrade but want the small caps that is why I'd prefer to use the stock rims. Thanks for your feedback.
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Is the bolt pattern on the Explorer the same as the stock one? I have a 50 Suburban and have found a 1997 Explorer rear end on Craig for $150. I want to make sure that I can use the stock rims.
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I see in another post you mentioned you put a 265 in a 50 which I am about to do in a 50 Suburban. Did the crank clear or did you have to cut more of the frame? I want to use the 3 speed overdrive and wonder if the flywheel from the original 6 and bell housing will work in the 265. I appreciate the chance to learn from you. Thanks
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Thank you for the advice. I did look at Don's and it looks like the frame on the 50 already has enough cut away but I will find out soon as I go to mock it up. The 265 is a donor from a 53 Chrysler with the pedal. I was thinking I'd have the machine shop when the motor is being set up to drill that flywheel to set up for the clutch. Also have them machine it for a pilot bearing. I will post pictures as I move forward. First Mopar I've ever done so I have a lot to learn.
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The crankshaft will accept the usual pilot bushing. It is not the 4 holes which is the issue, but the distance to the ring gear from the starter flange. Why not contact me directly at dnpollock@shaw.ca ?
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Thanks I will.
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Can you tell me what rear end you used? Also who's floor boards you used. I'm just starting a 50 that I'm putting a 264 flat in with factory dual single carb with a split manifold. I also have a factory aluminum head with a 3 speed with overdrive. All my friends think i'm crazy but thats what makes the world go around. Thanks for your input. Yours is quite the piece.
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Thank you for the information. Mine seems as bad as your car was in regards too the rust. Do you happen to know the name of that company? I will need all front and rear floorboards. The rear will work. The front brace will need to be replaced. Both inside rockers are bad so I might as well change the outside since one is bad the other is bent. I bought this car from Pinocchio in Texas. He took very careful pictures to avoid showing me the rust. Makes me wonder with this much work if I'm not better off to go find a dryer car.
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When I got some parts (which were bolt pockets for floors) thru Plymouth Doctor a year ago, They came from Kemp's Rod and Restoration, Inc. in Michigan. They are located in Hancock and Iron Mountain with a phone of 906-482-5656. What was sent to me sounds like they can do everything.
After about an hour of searching I came up with this. Give Kemps a call and see if they can help you out!
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Thank you for your time. I will post pictures as I move along.
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Hello I was referred to you from Neil Riddle. I'm just over the hill here in Reno. Never have done a Phymouth before so I'm a little inexpearinced on these cars. My build is a 1950 Phymouth Suburban. I want to put in a 1953 Chrysler 264 flathead. My question is on what flywheel and bell housing to use. The donor came with the clunker type trans. I have a 3 speed overdrive that I want to use. Will the parts from the 23 fit on the 25? If not can you be so kind as to point me in the right direction. Thank you for your time.
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Thank you I appreacite knowing the difference.
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Need anyones help on my 51 Suburban. Will a 50 front group fit on my 51? I'm new to the Mopar world so i'm not up to speed. I like the 50 grill better and thought if this could be done then I go find a complete front group. Just not sure if the cowl and the doors are the same. thanks in advance for your input.
