Fargone

Believe me I know that the rods will be 3-4" too long

When you raised your shifter did you have to alter your shifter rods or just make simple adjustments? And does it shift well after these changes?

I am a little concerned about shift rod geometry this will be a one of kind.

if there was a tail shaft housing with the forward shifter position I'd buy it, but I'm not sure 1 exists for my shorter trans. My current plan was to have a machinist friend of mine craft me a bracket.

Does the filter have to be mounted so high? Could it be lowered closer to oil pan level? It just seems to make more sense down lower, but I'd have look into clearance issues on my truck. I'm so doing this mod!

I don't want unrelated suggestions just facts related to an A833 transmission swap to a flat head six. I have an A833 but it is the wrong version, in that it does not have the central shifter mount position. I'm left with a few options and none of them are great. The best option is to get the correct transmission, but I'm already heavily invested in this tranny. The second best option and here's where I need advice. Can I fab up a bracket that moves me a few inches ahead? I see several examples of people raising the shifter position in their swaps of the central shifter. So my bracket could do both things move it forward and up. I know I'm going to have to alter the shift rods, but that looks a whole lot easier than the alternatives. Any thoughts? Just for clarity the first image shows my tranny mounted in the truck and cross member out, the string runs where my cross member mounts. The second image shows my tranny out and back on the floor it is the short version 23 3/16" long. The third picture shows some of the tail shaft housing options, clearly mine appears to be the first one.

It's funny your shifter looks just like the one I got from 1950 Fargo 1 ton. Mine will look very much like yours I'm sure. It will likely be a little shorter than yours maybe 6" or so. I love the shifter knob!

Yep George welded up a nice set of split manifolds from my original.

I can see what you're saying but I'm financially invested in these components now and just have to work with them.....

It looks like this tranny swap is getting more complex the shifter location causes serious problems for the cross member and fuel tank. It looks like my fancy new tank can't go in the factory position and cross member will require a more creative redesign than I anticipated. Adding to the complexity is the floor mods I'm going to need to do the dang shifter needs to come up through the seat base structure. It's almost like I have the wrong tail shaft on this tranny my shifter position is further back than yours.

Yep, I bolted her up yesterday a bit of task though. The Aok adapter plate has very tight tolerances and to get her in the last 1/2" was hard work. For my first test fit I did not have the throw out bearing installed. I know I will have the tranny out a couple more times before final install.

I looked at that and it seems like a good idea. I might be able to slide the cross member back 2-3 inches and the whole issue goes away. Of course that means pulling the cab again, but hey it's only 4 bolts and I need the cab off for some other tasks as well. Thanks for your input. Thanks I'll take a look.

Thanks for the responses guys, I'm ironing out trans job first then I'll bolt up some jewelry to the engine. A dirty engine is a running engine and I look forward to the maintenance.

thanks

The engine is an over sized 251 that I thought was a 265, but with help from Tim and George at Aok I've got a really strong and cool engine. George supplied cam, triple carb intake, rebuilt the carbs, crafted the throttle linkage and carved up my exhaust manifolds. Keith Black Racing actually had pistons for this thing not forged but nice cast units. All that's left is about 2000 small and medium sized jobs to finish her. The guys at Pro Stock Performance Machining asked if I wanted the factory engine color for my engine or if they could use hemi orange.

I've looked through all the images in our library and didn't see any photos of an A833 transmission actually installed in a 1950s Dodge 1/2 ton pickup (mine's a 51 Fargo). I'm hoping someone actually has some pictures of task while it's being done. I'm to the point in my build where I'm doing this install and I've run into a couple of issues and I'd like to see how others dealt with them before I start cutting and grinding. The first problem I've encountered is the cross member just below the seat has to be modified (cut out and boxed a bit). The second problem is the shifter position is quite far back and I assume I'll have to custom make a shifter lever and mod the interior floor and the bench seat a tad... I suspected I'd have to do these changes I'd just like to see how others did it. I do have the excellent Aok adapter plate so I am ready to get this done, just a little cautious (chicken).

I've been working on this conversion for my 1951 Fargo 1/2 ton for a few months. I had a fair amount of difficulty finding the transmission in Canada, but I just found 3 of them close to my winter home in Arizona. Tim Kingsbury has been very helpful with this project through his AoK blog and via e-mail. I now have the OD transmission complete with shifter and linkage. I've added the list I used to send wreckers while I was looking for this transmission. I paid $450 for mine and it appears to be in really good shape. I do plan to go through the trans with new bearings and seals before I use it. if anyone is looking for this trans in the south western USA Hidden Valley Auto Parts near Maricopa Az has a couple. A833 4 speed manual transmission with aluminum housing. The overdrive configuration with a 23-spline input appeared in these vehicles: o 1975 to 1979 Valiant, Duster, Dart, Scamp, Swinger, Volare, Aspen o 1975 to 1987 Dodge light-duty pickups and Dodge and Plymouth Vans o 1977 to 1979 Diplomat and LeBaron

I just pulled the old (I'm guessing original) heater from my 1951 Fargo. Up in Canada I'm guessing the heaters weren't an optional piece of equipment. As you can see from pictures it is a Chryco item. I guess it still could have been dealer install.

Sorry guys just found information on-line in Aussy service manual the whole unit has to come out.

I checked the old posts and couldn't find any information on pulling the steering column out while leaving the steering box in place. Is this even possible? Or should I just yank the steering box and column as a unit? It seems like they should separate at the column, but maybe the steering box has an internal connection as well? Any guidance would be helpful here, thanks in advance.

Your approach worked for me as well! I got the damn thing out. Thanks

That thing is beautiful, I teared up when I saw it. I'm so building one right friggin now!

Sorry guys I didn't know the right term for the "thing", the threads were a great source of information. I was about to give up and find another engine, but this is the original engine block from my truck so I'm trying to use it. So far I've had no luck with the slide hammer, but I'm off to bolt house to get so stuff and try again.

I'll try the manifold studs approach as well, maybe a thin punch will get the thing loose.

I wish I had some super strong 36" long shim stock I could hammer in along the sides. Or even really long air chisels to vibrate it loose. I'm off to the tool stores to see what I can find.