n1gzd_plymouth

one more showing the older mount that I ended up having to use:

Well, I replaced the front engine mount. A little bit of a hack job (had to drill holes in more places than I needed). I also ended up using an NOS 36 mount instead of the new mount for later models. Here is a summary of what I did and a few pictures. First of all, it is difficult to remove the engine support brace (mine is "0" shaped not "U" shaped). However, it is a puzzle that is solvable and I did figure out how to remove it (but not until I had already drilled the holes). Anyway, I drilled new holes on the chassis side and installed the new rubber mount. Unfortuantely, it turns out that it is not possible to install it because there is not enough clearance. This explains the difference in the design between the new one and the older design. the older one does not have studs facing the engine side because there is not clearance to slide it in. I ended up instead using an NOS 36 rubber mount that I got off ebay. I then had to drill different holes on the engine side. I will keep the newer mount incase I decide to swap parts on the chassis side some day. Here are a few pictures. Rebecca

Well, I gave it a little tug and to my surprise, it moved so I pulled on it and it just came right out. I decided that it is in very good shape (perfect metal that is just a little stained with the color of rusty water but you can rub that off and see that the metal is good. I am relived. Here are some pictures. Rebecca

argh. Perhaps I will give it a tug and if it does not come out easily I will just forget it until I find out if the engine overheats. Rebecca

slide hammer gadget. cool idea. Thanks. Rebecca

Don said: >short block and a long block pictured. Also is a shot of the full length of >both after I had them power coated. Don, did you re-install those yet (after powder coating)? I am curious to know if you had trouble getting them to fit after getting them powder coated. Interesting idea. Rebecca

Thanks. I will play it by ear. I did drive the car once for about 25 minutes and the temp indicated 160 deg (ran very rough I think from running excessively rich - puddle of fuel in the intake manifold). Rebecca

Thanks so much for your very helpful answer. I really appreciate it. It is especially nice to see what it looks like. One person told me that if I am not overheating I should not try and pull it out. However, I was thinking that if I am removing the water pump and the radiator is out I should consider replacing it. It is most likely original. Thanks again. Rebecca

You are right that I got the answer to my question but the guy pretty much told me that I am an idiot. Obviously I knew that the maximum amount of space needed is the length of the block but if I have never removed the tube before how am I supposed to know that it runs the full length of the block. This is my first flathead 6 and I am still learning about it. He could have just answered my question without being mean. I have never encountered this type of thing before and I use a lot of these boards. By the way, I am a regular user of the H.A.M.B. and I have never been annoyed by anyone there. Rebecca

This is an awesome forum for asking questions about my engine and perhaps some other stuff but perhaps it is not the place for me to ask questions that are specific to my 36. Does anyone know of a forum that is as good as this one where I can ask chassis specific questions? I just got flamed on the Plymouth forum of the antique automobile club of America forum (for asking if there is enough clearance to get my water distribution tube out without removing the grill - how am I supposed to know how long it is if I have never removed it - geeze). Sorry for venting but this is a much better group and I would rather be here. Rebecca 36 Plymouth with 52 Dodge truck 230 CI engine.

Thanks for checking. Rebecca

The rubber mount from the 36 plymouth has different hardware spacing than the rubber mount for the 52 plymouth (both ends). I have the engine support from the 36 chassis but I have a 52 engine. It is a miss match. there are two choices of rubber engine mount. One that fits the 52 engine and later support bracket (the u shaped one) and one that fits the 36 egine and it's support bracket (o shaped). I have a mismatched pair. I have decided not to modify the engine side since the mount that matches the later engines is still manufactured. Instead I am going to either modify the hole spacing in my support bracket or switch to the support bracket that matches my engine (U shaped). Rebecca

I would think that you would want the rubber there so that that vibration would isolate it from the chassis. I have decided that I will not try and modify the original 36 engine mount to fit the 52 engine because the 52 mount is available and the 36 is only available if you have it rebuilt. This is what I have decided: I will buy the later style rubber mount (studs straight through such that the spacing is the same on the top and bottom). This will fit my engine but not the cross member from 36. Then I will either elongate the holes in the lower cross member (make the spacing wider) and hope that it won't shift (I don't think so since the studs in the upper side go through holes and they are the same studs. The second option for using this readily available engine mount is instead of modifying the cross member that I have I could try and use the newer U shaped cross member. This would make maintenance easier (because it could be removed more easily (without removing the harmonic balancer and fenders). I favor this option but I could start with modifying my current one (nothing to loose) and switch it later when I need to remove the timing chain cover - UNLESS I FIND ONE VERY SOON TO TRY). I will order the mount tomorrow. Rebecca

Actually, now would be a good time for me to evaluate if the other bracket (like the picture of the silver and blue engines above) would fit my car. Are you willing to sell me your extra one so that I can have it as an option? I am curious to know if it would fit. Rebecca

I am thinking that perhaps when I have a reason to remove the harmonic balancer and timing chain cover I will re-consider changing the engine support (my manual says that i have to remove the fenders to do it - I am not sure i understand why). In the meanwhile, I am going to drill different holes in the top part of the rubber engine mount (bolts on top, studs on bottom). this way I don't have to modify the bracket on the engine. Rebecca

also, I am curious can you tell me what year truck and engine? What where they originally? My engine is from truck but my chassis engine mount is from car. I have seen later cars with a mount that looks like the above blue engine. Rebecca

I think that looks like mine. You don't have a problem because your car engine matches the car mount. engine and mount are a matched set. My engine does not go with that mount. Could I see a close up of your installed rubber engine mount? It just occurred to me that my solution could be to drill different holes in the top part of the mount (instead of drilling holes in the engine side bracket). Rebecca

so you see that my bracket attaches at the frame and also completely encircles the front of the engine (yours is u shaped mine is 0 shaped to generalize). I am not sure I can adapt my car to take your type of bracket but I will investigate that first. next I will consider using the old type of mount with elongated holes on the engine side. third I will consider custom made engine mount. Rebecca

http://www.pangalacticconsortium.com/temp/TempGallery/ they won't upload so see them here. Rebecca

one more time.

Ok. For some reason the pictures did not come out. Here they are as attachments:

I removed the radiator, fan stuff, coolant stuff, loostened the engine support bracket and removed the engine mount today and this is what I found out. My engine mount is the old type that looks like this: (it is upside down in this picture). As you can see it is different than the one in the later cars. The bottom studs are closer together than the bolts on the top side. This engine mount does not fit the 52 motor because the holes are too far apart. However, the bottom studs do fit the lower engine mount. I think that the lower studs are closer together than the holes on the engine bracket which makes me think that the later engine mount will not fit. Another thing that is different about the 36 engine is that the engine support brace is not U shaped as you described above. It is oval shaped. What I mean is that a part of it goes around the bottom of the front of the engine area (it encircles it such that it cannot be removed unless the harmonic balancer is removed - at least). The book says that you have to also remove the fenders if you need to remove the timing chain cover. It has one bolt on each side and the hole in the chassis is elongated to permit adjustment. Here is a view looking straight down on it. You can see the part that goes under the harmonic balancer: Much easier to get at this job with the radiator out: Does anyone know if the engine support brace from a later car will somewhat easily bolt into my car? That might make maintenace easier. To solve my problem I think that I need to: 1) Prove that the later engine mount won't just fit. 2) consider grinding the holes on the engine bracket such that they get wider (make a slot) such that I can use the stock 36 engine mount. I think that if the bolts are tight enough and I use lock washers or something with teeth it won't slip. I think that most of the force is up and down anyway (kind of rocks). I think that I could get away with this. What do you think? 3) make a custom engine mount that fits both sides. Just a metal sandwich with some rubber in the middle. Might not be that hard to make. Here are some numbers (measurements are just with ruler center to center): old orignal engine mount (seen in picture above): distance between studs = 3 13/16 (almost 3 3/4) distance between bolt holes = 5 1/4 36 engine support bracket = matches old engine mount studs 52 engine bracket bolt holes = 4 3/8 ( wider than studs I am pretty sure). Does anyone know if the later model engine support bracket (the U shaped one) would fit my car (instead of the sort of oval shaped one that I have that is hard to remove)? Another solution would be to just use the earlier model engine mount (like the one that does not fit) but elongate the holes in the engine bracket so that bolts would fit (make it a slot so that it could be made to fit). I am thinking that if it is tight enough it won't move. Another solution would be to manufacture an engine mount that fits my current chassis/engine perfectly. It could be a similar design as my original one but it would fit. Any ideas? Rebecca

I will be at the gathering of the faithful. Rebecca

Yes. I have a 58 Desoto Firesweep. Rebecca

ah, yes that is a hot rod but that is not mine. That picture was taken at the sellers house in VA. I live in MA. Most of the pictures on my site are at my place but some early ones are still there because initially they were the only pictures that I had. I live in MA. Rebecca