JSabah

After test fitting the seal on the yoke (before installing) I decided that it really didn’t seem like enough wear to be an issue or warrant a sleeve as it still felt tight. I did however take someone else’s advice who said that their method had worked for them when there was just a bit of wear. They said to spray several coats (build up) of rustolium rusty metal primer. Then wait a week to let it absolutely fully cure and then sand with a block until you can just see the metal - the low spots will obviously still be the primer. I used 320 and 800 grit and it felt perfectly smooth and level. Seems to have worked .... or maybe I just messed the 1st seal up as I had never done it before ?

I just went thru this. The counter shaft I was told to use JB weld. The 3 bolts on the retainer collar originally had small rubber grommets, which I found on eBay (none of the typical suppliers had). I also used thread sealant on those bolts and the 2 lower bolts. New O rings at the shift lever pivots and a new rear seal along with a new gasket and a small amount of sealant and you should be drip free. While the drive shaft is off, have a look at the pinion seal on the differential

Yes, I put the original transmission back in. when you say “shift lever” do you mean #1 below which I believe changes gears or #2 which adjusts the gear shifter travel (I don’t recall see any nuts/adjustment on #2 ).

I removed and replaced the transmission on my P18 Special deluxe (3 on the column). Now that it is back, I took it for a little drive and while in 2nd, it popped out of gear. Is that a shift adjustment, or clutch - I cant imagine it is the clutch as nothing was touched and it was fine before. If the shift, would that be the operating lever/rod, or the gear selector rod? Thank you, Josh

I think I have the angles correct and now I’m thinking about a lockout switch for the reverse rail on the transmission (NP420). I’ve found plenty of info on installing a brake light switch- which I believe should be normally open. I’d like to install a normally closed switch on the reverse rail so that power can be sent to the solenoid when in any forward gear, but that will open the circuit when put in reverse. I can’t seem to find what I’m looking for. Can someone point me in the right direction? Thank you

Thank you. What speedi sleeve did you get and from who? Does it look like I’m in need of one?

I found that oil is being flung from the pinion oil seal. I’ve ordered a new seal and have now taken the flange off. The seal looks relatively new (ie still shinny) but it is obviously leaking. The flange doesn’t appear to be too worn -if I slide the new seal over, it does seem tight and the rubber has to open up to accommodate the flange. (1) is there a speedi sleeve I should use just in case, or just try the new seal. (2) Not having the special removal tool mentioned in the workshop manual, what works? (3) What gear oil should I refill the diff with? pictures show flange, straightedge on flange for wear, old seal in place

Took her for a test drive. No grind between 1st and 2nd, but still a little grind between 2nd and 3rd. Didn't fix it all, but 80% - maybe its an old car ? .Also, glad I changed that old smelly oil and added the correct amount of fresh oil anyway.

Thank you all. Just drained what was in the Trans. Supposed to have 2.25 pints or 36 oz. only about 19 brown (muddy looking) smelly oil came out. Refilling with the MTL as advised and hopeful that will do the trick.

Great info. Thank you. I think I’ll drain and refill the oil as a first step as I don’t recall doing so before. What is the difference (or what is better to use in a non rebuilt/original trans) - Redline MTL or 90wt ? Also, how much does the trans hold (sorry I don’t have the manual with me)?

I don’t drive the ‘49 too often but when I do I get a little gear grind when shifting. I can minimize it by putting in the clutch, taking it out of gear and counting to 2 or 3 before putting it in gear. It now occurs to me that I should be double clutching... am I correct? This is for a ‘49 Plymouth Woody P18 with the original Flathead 6 and transmissions (3 on the column). Thanks

Interesting article. I need to digest it a bit more but the second to last paragraph lists different factors .... one of which is how smooth you expect your ride to be going down the highway..... it’s a Power Wagon , so not too ?. Thanks. I’ll also look at the hamb- great idea.

Hoping a u-joint/drive shaft expert (or just about anyone cause most know more than me on this subject) will chime in here. I measured the angles of my components with a angle finder as described above (see below). At what angle should my OD be? i will probably Ave to re measure as the rear axle has recently been off for leaf spring, axle and brake refurbishment and it has yet to be put down on its Rear wheels yet

Thanks. 3 months ago, the floor was clean and the frame was a mess ?.

Hoping to revive this topic a bit as I’m in the process of adding a Laycock overdrive to a ‘59 Dodge Power Wagon and have a few questions for those who have done this. 1. is there any torque on the unit /brackets? I’m wondering how stiff or soft the isolators should be and what material to make the frame out of. My Laycock has threaded holes for 3/8 coarse and Moss and those that sell isolators are 5/16 fine for some reason. McMaster Carr has several that will work but they range in weight rating (ant torque) from 75 lbs up to 300 lbs (weight). I plan on making a bracket /mount for the front addition To using the tapped holes at the rear- are both needed? 2. Attached is a pic of my setup (temporarily being held and aligned by wood blocks). As you can see, I’m using a flanged yoke and u joint to connect directly to the transfer case. My concern has to do with alignment. Right to left, I’ll pull a string line and put the OD in line but the vertical angle is what has me confused from reading this thread. I was going to angle the OD as if it were just replacing the drive shaft but now think it should be at either the same angle as the TC or ??? (Just confused). Thanks in advance.