41P11Coupe

Rebuilding the front suspension: upper and lower outer pins/bushings, king pins, upper and lower a arm shafts/bushings. While removing the coil springs there was a 3/16" steel spacer on top of the spring (on the drivers side). There is NO spacer on the passenger side. Is it missing one, is it made this way, someone has been in here before and forgot to put it in. I have searched for this item and a cannot find it. I am wondering if I should leave it out, any suggestions?

Any pictures?

While replacing the clutch on my 48 Plymouth I noticed the input shaft bearing on the transmission is worn out.I researched this subject but I haven't found any good instructions for replacing this bearing. Are these transmissions hard to rebuild, are all the parts available, should I just replace one component or rebuild the whole unit. Thank You

I made a post on Jalopy Journal, this is what they said. Just gave me more confidence in this site. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/41-plymouth-upper-control-arm-pin.1061434/

There was a short in the brake light / pillar circuit. I removed that circuit from the light switch and I had power. Upon looking at the brake light wires I discovered one was disconnected and touching the frame. I'm hoping that was it and not the pillar circuit as that one goes under the liner, There is a circuit breaker built into the switch, it is not encased in a housing- I can see the contact points and the metal disc and they look fine. I will be doing the rear lights next and will address the brake light / pillar circuit when I move to that. Thank you everyone for your input, very much help.

OK So I got new headlights put them in and when I pull out the switch they do not come on. I verified the ground, the wires going to the headlight, the terminal block and they check out ok. I'm looking at the schematic and there are two wires going to the front headlights. They come from the headlight beam switch. So I pull out my meter and I have continuity to ground from one of these two wires that terminate at the terminal block. I must have a short some where between these two. Tomorrow I will trace these two wires back to the headlight beam switch and go from there.

I'm verifying/repairing the wiring on my 48 Plymouth. All the wires were there going to the appropriate places but the insulation was gone about 1 1/2" from the ends. Of course over the years things get changed, spliced, taped, moved, broken etc.. I've never operated the electrical system of a car this year. I'm working on the front lower fender and headlights. When I pull the light switch out to the first detent the fender lights go on, pull the knob all the way out for the headlights and the lower fender lights go off. My headlights don't go on because I need new lights. I don't know if the fender lights are dependent on them when I pull the knob out all the way.Is this correct I don't know. I keep wanting to compare it to a newer system but I know I cant.

Well got the column to rack linkage installed, checked if it turned ok and there were no binds. Looking at how I'm going to hookup the tie rod linkage. On the original steering linkage there is a short adjusting link on the drivers side and a long one on the passenger side. The cavalier links are different shapes, one is pretty straight and thinner in diameter and the other is bent and larger in diameter. While working on the drivers side the straight cavalier link seems to be right in line. What I'm thinking is, I have another short original adjusting link: put the short adjusting link on the passenger side- get another straight cavalier link and go from there. The car is not on the wheels so I will put the tires on, let the car down and see what kind of clearance's I will be working with.

Working on the steering system. Put the rack and pinion in, and the disc brake setup.

I picked up a 318 from craigslist. Went to u-pull it and pulled a 727 transmission from a 76 Dodge van. I set the carburetor at zero°, when I check the output shaft on the trans I am about at 4°. Fabricated a trans mount: still need to weld it together but will do that once I determine the offset of the engine. I had no steering gearbox or column but did have the steering linkage. Got a cavalier rack and am working with getting that installed, also picked up a column.

I'm not sure, I haven't tried the stock rims on it. I know they are five lug but that's about it. Sorry I couldn't be more help

Cudan I just went and looked at my 48 Special Deluxe, same holes and nothing in them. Ken

Mr. Wayfarer So put the Explorer axle just past the locating pin and sung it up to do the engine work?

Great: still getting motivation Bought the engine today, great looking engine, from what I gather the person rebuilt the engine for a 70-72 Barracuda then decided on a hemi. I put a tilt column from a 85-88 Buick in my 65 Ford pickup. Don't know how to approach the steering system for this car, just want some kind of power steering system. I have the original column to measure against. I am leaning toward Butches cool stuff for that but any advice would definitely effect my decision. Your responses are definitely keeping me motivated. Thanks I've had a anvil dropped on my head but.......

Seems like the easiest thing to do would be to put the original axle back in so I can roll the car. I ordered new perches from Summit so once I install the engine and tranny I will move back to the axle. I will be picking an engine up tomorrow and get the transmission from u-pull it.. I am going to order the kit from Butches cool stuff. It asks me if I going to use the original steering ( the answer to that would be no) so they can send me the motor mounts with a off set. So when do I approach the steering system? Thanks