Royal C18

So cool to find a vehicle that old and unmolested. Agree with the guys glad you are doing the rebuild. The satisfaction of starting her after you rebuild is worth all the time you put in it!!! My '38 Chrysler engine is all original with all the original accessories. All numbers match!! The only thing i had to change til I get it fixed was the head. It developed a slight crack on top that seeped coolant. Pistons and head gasket were clean and original!! And I also agree keep it stock. They run forever when properly maintained!!! Good luck with the build, you have a nice platform to start with!!! I have a fiend that has a nice '28 Buick and '28 1 ton Chevy truck that sit in the garage. He drove them all the time til the novelty wore off. Now I think the last time he drove them was about 2 years ago. I try to get him to take them out, but he always has an excuse. He won't sell them ether!!! She is going to look good when finished!!!

Thanks all for the excellent feed back. I know rear drums for '37-'42 Chrysler fit. I looked at Plymouth and though the outside of the hub is correct, the shaft diameter is smaller! I am going to talk to my friend and see if he can mill it down to 2.04 which is where the groove is at and use a speedi sleeve. If he can't or that won't work(he should know) I most likely be interested in the '46-'48 drums if they are good and will fit!! Thanks again for all the feed back oh and yes this has turned out to be a learning thread!!!

She's looking good!! Killer work!!!

The guys that put your babies to sleep for the winter, how can you cope with that. I mean you won't be driving them for a while and knowing they are just sitting not far, don't you just get the urge to go drive them. I love driving my '40 Plymouth. I find any and every excuse to take her out and drive. There is nothing like the feel of driving these classic beauties. At least for me. That is why I am dying to get my '38 Chrysler on the road. It kills me seeing her sit on the lift and not be able to drive her. I mean modern cars are nice with all their features, but it is nice just to drive a car that has the basics. Just drive and enjoy!!!

Thanks guys!! RobertKB do you know what Chrysler they are from?? I have a 1942 brake part interchange book. I could see if they would work. And yes they are 11" X 2". Thanks!!! P15-D24 I wanted to use a sleeve would have been the fastest and cheapest way, but since it is tapered(seems like mine is the only one) the sleeve would not work. It has to be at least the same diameter down the hub for at least a 1/2". Mine is at 2.09 at that point starting at 2.00" at the top. I never thought of braze welding it. Thanks for the idea on that!!!!!!!

jcmiller what is the outside diameter of your hub??

Yep that's it!!! But see how your hub shaft seems evenly cylindrical top to bottom. Mine is tapered from the top 2.00" to 2.13" at the bottom. Yours looks like it would take a speed sleeve perfectly!! Mine not so lucky!! Now if I could find a machine shop to weld a bead and machine it to specs. Or I have a friend that is a retired aero space machinist with a lathe in his garage he could do it, but he doesn't weld though!!! Maybe I can find a welding shop!!! Looks like the way to go unless by some miracle I find NOS ones!!! Thanks guys!!!!!

Yes, I will take some pics and post!!

The grease seals were visually the same as the OEM, but they were stamped made in Mexico! The lip was hard as a rock. I tried pushing on them and no give!! They fit real tight. My new NOS seals that I soaked in oil for over a week are nice and pliable and fit good until the groove, were it just then moves around freely, too freely!! I know they never greased them or hadn't greased them for a real long time. The plugs were caked with years of dirt and grime and were a pain to take out to clean the hole and plugs! The bearings were oil soaked and washed the grease off!! I had to replace one of the bearings and race due to sever pitting!! I know there is no pressure exerted on the seal from the grease, yet when it softens from heat it may ooze out a little!! Some one said to try JB weld, but that doesn't sound like it would work!!

I found out that the same grease seal was used on many models and years so the hub outside diameter is the same on them, but it is the axle shaft diameter that changes model to model, year to year. So the hubs even though they look the same won't fit. My '40 Plymouth uses the same seal, but the axle is different in diameter!!! I can find front NOS hub and drums, no rear! Even the '38 Chrysler C19 and C20 are different even though they are built on the same platform. The axles are larger diameter!! I have explored all different avenues before coming here. This is so frustrating, I am so close to getting her back on the road!! Everything else is done for the exception of the interior which I will do when she is driving!!! Thanks for all the input.

Thanks for the responses!! Yes it is the outer grease seal. I already replaced the inner oil seals which appeared original and almost non existent!! The grease seal lip was hard as a rock. Like hard petrified rubber!! So it wore a nice groove! I don't want to swap out the rear, I'd like to keep it as original as possible!! If machining is the only route does any one know who can do it. I was thinking if they could run a weld bead then machine it to specs on a lathe! Thanks again!!!

Here is a link to a place that carries Hogs hair carpet used in the Plymouth. I have a P10 sedan and it matched the original almost perfectly!! It's a little pricey, but it is correct!! http://www.hirschauto.com/specialcarpet.htm Easy to cut and fit. Also use jute backing underneath!! Hope this helps!!

Hi, Started fixing up my 1938 Chrysler C18 after sitting for about 3 years. I started redoing the complete braking system and seals when I found both rear drum hubs badly grooved by cheap hard aftermarket seals. The scores are deep enough to were the new seals won't seal. When I removed the drums the shoes were covered in rear end oil! So I thought a seal change would take care of it, boy was I wrong!!! I was going to use a speed sleeve, but found the outside of the hub has a slight taper (cone shape) instead of being an equal diameter cylinder. It starts at 2.00" tapers to 2.03" then to 2.09" to the widest 2.13". I was wondering if anyone has repaired this type of hub before or may know where I could get it done. I have looked for hubs, hub and drum assemblies to no avail!!! But did find Front & Rear NOS hub and drum assemblies for my '40 Plymouth. P10 though. Snatched those up!! I wished the Chrysler was as easy!!!! So any thoughts, suggestions, ideas, places to take or send, please throw them my way!!! I want to get this car back on the road were it belongs!!! Thanks!!!!!!!!