Frank's 49

Well, I might have screwed up, but I ordered one that was $67, including the shipping. We shall see. My Dad just carried some spare gas for years. Except the time he ran out on the paper route at 4 AM and had to walk 2 miles carrying gas in two open-top quart oil cans. He said they got unbelievably heavy!!

Merle; like you I figure a short float rod will just leave me with some emergency gas. I also added a ground to the unit currently in the truck. Just used a small self tapping machine screw. I like your fix better. Unfortuately the potentiometer and the float on my unit are both shot. I am going to try one from vintageamericanpartsco and see what happens.

I just heard from the e-bay seller. His unit measures 8" which i am sure is too short. But... if it is cheaper then the Jeep I still might get one and lengthen it. How did you add length? and how long was the arm? I figure if the arm is shorter than stock, the worst case will be I will be left with some "reserve" gas when the gauge says empty.

It is single wire. Oil Soup.. How much did the Jeep unit cost? The one I am looking at on EBay is $79. this is the one I am thinking will work (wish they would incude the length) http://www.ebay.com/itm/1949-1950-PLYMOUTH-DODGE-DESOTO-CHRYSLER-GAS-FUEL-SENDER-GAS-TANK-SENDING-UNIT-/172658655013

I just looked at a diagram in the Pilot House Knowledge site and the 18 gal tank is shown as 12 5/16 inches from top to botton on the 108 WB, so I guess 12 inchs ought to do it?

I am trying to find a sending unit for a 1949 B!B. On Ebay I have found a bunch of units which are for the car side, but the seller claims they are not for trucks (or station wagons). I can't see any difference by just looking at the photos. But they have several different units, which appear identical, but for different year ranges (and prices). I asked "what is the difference in the units, and why don't they believe they won't work on a truck?". The reply was "how long is your arm"?. Despite the obvious pun, I wonder if anyone on the forum has a measurement for the "arm" on the sending unit for a B1B pickup? I really don't want to take out the seat and remove the floor and the unit, just to get a measurement. OK, so I am lazy , but when I do remove it, I will make an "access hole" so I at least don't have to remove the entire floor next time. The woody does not have a nice neat access hole in a metal floor. The floor is made of wood and I will have to cur a hole. Or drop the tank (no!)

Good looking truck. I like the stance. I did the leaf removal thing, and added teflon liners between the springs. Still rides like a buggy. I still wonder if new springs would make a difference. But I think the answer is either major mods, like air bags, or swapping a late model suspension, or just drive slow and slow down for bumps!

check this link for some wiring harness info and diagrams. http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/wiring_harness/B1_series_wiring_details.pdf The front light harness runs along the inside of the left fender (you should see some holes for clips). The cross-over goes through two clips on the inside of the radiator shroud. I actually deleted the block on the right side and just ran wires from the left side block directly to the lights on the right. For my rear light harness, i had to make a termial block, as the body is all wood, and i had to provide some ground wires. I ran extra wires for turn signals and future back up lights (maybe). The wires run along inside the left frame rail and through some holes in the cross-members. I will include some pictures. The yellow and blue wires are turn signals (the unattached wires are the "parking lights"), some day i might install additional lights, or double filament bulbs). and clean up the harness.

Thanks for the replies.

I have seen several comments/posts discussing installing a jeep rear axle in a B1B. My questions are "just how difficult is it", It welding required, or is it "bolt on", Do I need to modify the drive shaft, and will the brake lines connect-or do I have modify something there also? Can anyone point me to more specific procedures on this forum?

Just an observation. The way this topic started, it seemed the buyer wanted a four-speed so that he could have a floor shift. My B1B, which was built in 48, has a 3-speed floor shift, from the factory. I think he could probably find the floor shift parts/transmission from a 48 or 49, and it would be a bolt-in. Mike

I just rebuilt a model 61 that was in my 49 woody. But the vent arrangement is different? The defrost is on the top left on mine. (it is upside down in the picture) I don't see any way to rearrange the vents, but it all works good. by the way, if anyone is interested, I have a 2 speed motor that works, and will fit right in these. I will try to put it in the classifieds, but have never tried that before. (it is craigslist - atlanta) Mike

The 49 Woody, I have is the truck I learned to drive in way back in 1959. Dad drove it to work everyday, and we all thought it was an "old" truck back then.

OK, lots of helpful ideas. Guess I will have to do a little more research and find a local shop that can fix what I have. Thanks to everyone. Mike Oh, and the wheelbase is 108.

The springs on my woody are no longer as springy as they should be. Basically it rides like a truck! I have removed the #2 leaf from all the stacks and it still rides pretty rough. Part of the problem is I think the springs have lost some of their arc, and they also have pretty serious grooves worn in them. My Dad drove used the wagon on an almost daily basis from 1949 until 1987, and has a LOT of miles on the original springs (and everything else!) I have replaced everything except the leaf springs themselves, so it is not any of the other parts. Does anyone know of a source for replacement springs? Or given the fact that replacing original equipment always seems to drive the cost up, is there a possible replacement from a more modern vehicle? If I can find something to fit, I don't mind sourcing from a junk yard. Maybe even something that will fit, but provide a little softer ride. I don't intend to carry any heavy loads, so heavy duty is not necessary. I really puzzles me how modern trucks can ride like a Cadillac, and still get the job done. Mike

Used 215-85 R16. Brand name is Goodride SL-309. I am not sure who actually manufactures them, but the local dealer has had good luck with them. We mounted them on the stock 1949 B1B rims (5.5 Inch width, 16" diameter). I told them to try them without tubes, and they are holding air fine. I had them set at only 40 psi, since I don't intend to carry any sort of load. I had one slow leak, which took about 2 weeks to notice. They found one of the valves had not seated correctly and after reseating it I have not had any more problems. Total cost out-door was $487. I looked at Coker since they are only about 70 miles from my home, but a set of stock size radials (600-16) would have run close to a grand, plus installation. And they apparently don't like to mount them except on their new rims. I'm not try to restore my truck back to "show stock", so the non-stock size does not concern me. I just want tires that fit and ride good.

Well, the picture of the mirror from the site where I ordered it did not post. But here they are mounted on the woody. Note that the mount had to be placed differently on either side. This was so the mirror would be visible to the driver, without the "vent window" post being dead center. I also had to cut the tubing and re-drill so that they would be the correct length. Not sure if these would work on a metal door, but they might be usable.

Had a good day in Georgia to do a little work on the Woody. It has never, at least to my knowledge, had exterior mirror(s). I added a couple of mirrors designed for a Jeep. Since the doors are made of wood, I just modified the shafts a little and used the supplied bracket to attach them to the doors. They work great. I think with a little work they probably could be hinge mounted. As a matter of fact I have seen some Jeep mirrors that hinge mount with a nice long vertical shaft. Those would probably work also, but the hinge mount would have to be modified to fit a PH hinge. I don't have a picture of my set up, but will add one soon. This a photo of the type mirror I used. "Smittybilt CJ Side Mirrors 7617" Mike