37silverstreak

Thanks for the reply! The upper washer and the spacer were definetly a one piece unit, but not anymore! I took my sawzall and metal cutting blade and converted to a two piece design!! I used some washers to make up for the loss of the cut. New mount is in and hopefully the other side will be easier. Thanks for you help!

Hey everyone, It's me again. Now that I have a reconditioned intake/exhaust manifold and new timing chain, sprockets and seal installed, it's time to tackle the engine mounts. I got the front one replaced no problem and went to start on the rears but I've hit a snag. It appears that the upper mount washer is attached to the spacer that goes through the upper and lower mounts. How do you get enough clearance to remove the mount? What am I missing? Any tips? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Hi everyone, Has anyone here ever replaced a rear transmission seal? The seal on my '49 Plymouth is leaking and I was wondering how much of a pain it would be for me to replace it. Can it be done without removing the transmission? I have the new seal and would like to try and replace it myself, but if I have to pull the transmission, I'll wait until I have the clutch replaced by my local mechanic. Thanks for any input!

Thank you everybody for your input! I got the distributor starting to turn in the block this morning after soaking and tapping on it for about a week. It's not out yet but at least it's starting to free up! Thanks again

Thanks! Apart from spraying it down with some PB Blaster, I haven't tried too hard yet. All I know is it's stuck! It must have been moved at one time as the distributor is adjusted to full advance, probably because the timing chain and sprockets were so worn. I want to get it back to center before really trying to start the engine.

Hi everyone! Does anybody have any tips on freeing up a stuck distributor? Need to adjust timing after timing chain replacement and it's stuck fast! Thank you!

Hi, Should be an easy question. What size socket do I need to remove the crankshaft pulley nut? Replacing the timing chain/gears on my '49 Plymouth and didn't have anything on me to measure it. Thanks!

Hi, Any 1949 P18 experts here? I have a question about the color of the Steering wheels . I have a P18 Special DeLuxe 4dr sedan with an all original interior. The color of the steering wheel is a dark brown that matches the steering column. I have seen a lot of "49s that have an ivory colored steering wheel, which I like a lot more. There is only one part number in the parts book (1142564) which matches the number on my steering wheel. So, I am wondering if the ivory color was an option? I have all the period literature for my car and it makes no mention of an optional steering wheel? Was it a dealer option or something? So if anyone has any insight I would love to know about it! Thanks for your help!

Hi everone, I pulled the intake/exhaust manifold from my '49 Plymouth to have it media blasted and to rebuild the heat riser assembly. My question is, what was the original color of the manifold when it left the factory? Was it black, or silver like the engine block, or did it have any finish at all? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!

Thank you ALLBIZ49, that is just what I was looking for!

Hey everyone, It's been quite awhile since I've posted anything here. Last fall I picked up a nice original 1949 Plymouth P18 4dr. I've been working on it when time and money allows. The original Sisson choke was missing and the previous owner had hooked up a manual choke cable to the carb. I've installed a NOS Sisson choke, but am trying to figure out the routing for the wire. The wiring schematic shows the wire mounting to the starter terminal but I would like to know if there is a certain way the wire physically routes to the choke? Anyone have any pictures or input? Thanks! Kevin

Hey guys, Just curious, when did Plymouth start incorporating the starter circuit into the ignition switch? I'm guessing that my early '49 Plymouth P15 ( i prefer referring to her as a '48) has had its ignition switch replaced at some point before I bought it as the switch has 4 terminals on it instead of 3. It has the spring loaded second right position that allows you to crank the starter from the key instead of a button and also has a left key turn position that allows you to run the accessories without turning on the ignition. I'm going to keep this switch in the car as it was what was in the car when I bought it and it seems to function fine, but it did cause me some headaches trying to figure out the wiring as the P15 diagram shows a 3 terminal switch. Thanks!

MY late '48 Plymouth has a 30 amp circuit breaker mounted under the dash and yet I can't seem to find it in any wiring diagram for the P15. I see one on the P17-18 model diagram though. So was wondering if anyone here has an answer? By the look of the old harness it was there originally, but unfortunately the old harness is so faded I can't tell what goes where and my new reproduction harness doesn't seem to have any provision for it. If anyone can tell me what that circuit breaker is used for I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance! Kevin

According to my service manual, they tell you NOT to trim the ends of the gaskets. They are supposed to protrude 1/8 to 1/4 inch so they can compress when the pan bolts are tightened.

I got the OEM looking tank. It's almost identical to the original and it fit right in.

Pic #1 is almost identical to the oil pan in my '48 Plymouth except mine doesn't have the "V" pattern in the baffle. The engine is a 1950 Plymouth P20 218.

I don't know of anyone who makes an interior kit for the P15 Plymouths, not one that would be authentic anyway. Doing it yourself is certainly possible, Repro headliners are easily available and not difficult to install. Door panels and other trim panels are pretty easy to make as well. The hard part are the seats, especially if you don't have any of the old upholstery to take apart and use for patterns. you might want to try doing the parts I mentioned yourself and send the seats out to a shop for best results. Finding some good pictures of original upholstery helps a lot too. I've done a few interiors on my cars over the years and I actually enjoy doing it!

Check out Ebay, there are quite a few there. Thats where I bought mine last year and I was very happy with it.

If you have the same starter drive that is in my '48 Plymouth it will not disengage from the flywheel just by cutting the power to the starter motor. It will stay engaged until the engine starts and the action of the flywheel overunning the drive at a certain RPM will cause it to snap back into its home position. I recently had my starter out to clean and rebuild it and my drive was in the extended position as well. I just reinstalled it as is and figure it will reset once I get the engine running.

If you go on to YouTube and look up "Chrysler Master Tech- 1949, volume 2-6 Transmission Fundamentals" I watched it and found it very helpful. Doe a good job of showing the linkages.

I drained the 30 year old oil from my engine today and pulled the pan. Good news, no signs of water/antifreeze in the oil and very little sludge in the pan! So, I want to clean up the oil pan and pickup screen. I've got a new set of pan gaskets on order from NAPA and would like to get her closed up yet this week before it gets to cold to work in an unheated machine shed. Just wondering what you guys are using for oil- i.e. brand and weight etc.? This engine has not been rebuilt. Thanks!

Thanks!

Are the baffles in the oil pan removable or are they spot welded in place? I pulled the pan today and there is a small amount of sludge build up. i would like to remove as much of it as possible but the baffles are making it difficult to reach some spots. Thanks! Kevin

I'm a little confused here. Were the original bushings made of a different material? I just watched a 1949 Chrysler "Master Tech" filmstrip on You Tube dealing with the clutch and they mention using no more than a 1/4 teaspoon full of grease in the pilot bushing? My new bushing appears to be an oilite, so I just want to be clear and do the right thing! Thanks to everyone who chimed in! Kevin

Hi everyone, I bit the bullet today and started pulling the clutch from my '48 Plymouth. So far everything is going smoothly, maybe too much so, I'm waiting for something to happen! I made a platform for my floor jack for the transmission to rest on and it worked great, the tranny came out easily. I pulled the clutch fork and throwout bearing, the bearing is completely seized, but I have a complete NOS assembly to replace it with. All the pressure plate bolts are loose so I'm hoping to have the clutch disk and pressure plate out tomorrow. My questions are with the pilot bushing. Do you normally need to replace the pilot bushing? I have a new one that came with my throwout assembly but I don't have any special tools to remove the old one. If I do install a new bushing, do I have to ream it out to make it fit properly? Again I don't have any of the tools they mention in the shop manual. If anyone has replaced one and has any tips on going about it I would greatly appreciate hearing them, Thanks! Kevin