RonaldC

48, Would love to share more pics, but the site is advising me I can not upload any more due to capacity(?) But couple things about what you mentioned above. So yep, truck is 1/2 ton, so where the marker lights came from is a mystery, unlike where they went. As far as I can tell, the bumper is OEM, as well as the spare tire hanger underneath. I personally prefer low side (in fact I now have 2 of them). My Father in law has a 49' 5 window, high side, bought right of the lot here locally by his grandfather. And while it is nice, its not so much for me. I am more low, sporty, a not to much glass. The Door badge confirms B3B, 108" wheelbase, serial # 85311090, 97/86 horse (gross/net respectfully). I am assuming motor is original based on feedback from previous owner, and it matches numbers on the title. You are also correct about the "D100" fender badges (as you stated), they are for a D100, not a Pilothouse B series. But given how thin the metal is at that location, I think they were applied as a cosmetic repair. Wiring under the dash is nice and tight, loomed and tied. I do not like clutter and partial installs. Do it right, do it once! With regard to the cab corners, you clearly have seen a few of these to know to mention that. I too have seen this issue, but not on this one, clean as a whistle. I will go out on a hunch here and mention the fuel tank before you ask. As you may well know, Tanks does not offer a factory fit for these trucks. Close yes, but not exact. The fill neck is wrong, which tends to lead people to hack the cab to make it fit. NO SIR! Not me, not happening. So I had a local machine shop fab a spacer to raise it accordingly. In another post, I shared some photos for a guy in a desperate plea to stop him from cutting the cab on his truck. May be able to find if interested. Suspension hangers probably should be replaced just out of age and principal. Nothing coming apart but they are rather dry and brittle I am sure. As far the bed, yeah, it needs to be reworked for sure. That is more less the point I'm at now. Where is that starting (or better said stopping) point? Do the bed? Well you need to do the paint/body work on the bed 1st. If your going to do that, then you need to...... See where I am going? I am that guy that makes a simple bed install turn into a frame off resto. So for now, I drive it. As is. And have a great time doing it. But I also like to protect my investment. So I make sure no leaks, everything works, doesn't sit in the weather. Even the wiring was preventative as they were brittle and (to me) a fire hazard waiting to happen. So all told, the truck is great, drive-able, and a lot of fun. And if someone wanted a complete truck that required little, or even nothing, to enjoy, its probably this one. For the guy building a hot rod, its not this one. There are several laying in a bone yard that are far better suited for that. This one is a great truck that needs to be refreshed, not refurbished......

@48, I must admit, I can not definitively say they are the OEM mirrors. However, I was provided a picture of the 2nd owner pushing/loading it out of a barn, and the mirrors where on it then. My assumption is they are correct given he had parked it in there some 30 years earlier. As far as the integrity of the truck, I have replaced the fuel tank and sending unit, the water pump, converted to 12v (still have generator and coil), put a slightly higher rated coil when changed it over, new battery, new wiring in and out, front to back. wheels and tires, and head/tail lights. The truck starts on cue with the push of the floor stomp every time. I drive it back and forth to get Ice cream and check the mail pretty regular. 3 on the tree and and runs, shifts, stops just fine. All the glass is in great shape. Just a sound old truck, but it IS 66 YEARS OLD, so as expected, it isnt perfect, but real darn close. What it needs? 12 volt wiper motor, heater and fuel gauge hooked up (both worked just fine on 6v), wood in bed. And honestly if I was feeling really ambitious I would replace both the front fenders. The only location with rust on this truck is the same as everyone of these B series, where the front fenders bolts to the body. In the end, the thing is the truck is by far in better shape than any of the others I have found, excluding the frame offs and the extreme outliers of course. And it absolutely serves its purpose: I am a HUGE Dodge fan so obvious choice for a truck here, I would say it is very reliable, not that I would drive it out of state, and it is a total blast to drive around town with my kids/grand kids. But the one thing it doesn't do is satisfy my need for speed (i.e. Hot Rod). Hense the other 51project I have in the barn just waiting for me to open my check book! Thank for the feedback. Attached an "as found" picture of it for you as well.....

@Los, insurance I am guessing would go off of some type of book value. Nada has it on the low side at $11K, middle ground around $23k. @ggdad1951 all these things are true. But I have the OEM mirrors. They take the wow factor down about 20 points, as well as the value of the truck...

Thanks Blue. This is in the area I was kind of thinking. And too, I may end up selling it just to make room for another Dodge project i have. I like most, have an idea in mind of what it worth, but beauty is in the eye of the beholder too. And most people that you ask will tell you it is worth "all you can get". But that really doesn't tell you anything. Haggerty will tell you it is in the 15k - 18k range. And that actually sounds about right to me. But perception can again be obscured by the previous mentioned mind set too. But I do think you are correct in that the pricing does seem to be on the rise. And I think that is due in part to EVERYONE has a 50's Chevy and Ford truck. Not many of the Pilot house out there. So in the end, if I move on selling it, I think I will likely take the advise of listing it at what I think its worth, and settle for the minimum I think i can live with. And if it doesn't sell, it looks just fine to me in my garage.... Thanks for the feedback.

Thank you sir! It is nice for sure. But it has flaws as well, just not a lot. So you see my dilemma. Being an avid Dodge fan, I cant bring myself to do much more to this truck than drive it. I did change it over to 12 volt, but that is really the only mods made to it. I had the same idea about the auction. Of course then I may be forced to sell it!

yeah, what John said. But I would suspect wiring from the ignition switch....

Did 49 still have vent window? I think it is 48....

cant tell for sure from pics, but the one thing that everyone is correct on is, it is either 48 or 49 based on floor shift and gauge configuration. 50 and 51 had gauge in a square cluster, not a row.

So Curious, how do you place a value on your Pilot House? Recognizing everything is worth what someone is willing to pay, but come on. What is fair and realistic? So I have this 51. And really, it is about as clean and original as you can get without a frame off resto. And just to satisfy the would be ask-ers, While I think the truck is GREAT, I think I may want something that will run a little quicker down the road. And If you are going to molest a Pilot House, fitting it up with V8 and the proper front end support, I don't think this is the one to cut on. Just way to "kept" for a would be hack job, I have one beside the barn that I will feel much better about. So, to my point. How much is one worth if wanting to sell? Just curious how to determine pricing for older trucks..... Thoughts?

Not me, I just order the one from Tanks. By the time you purchase and modify from somewhere/something else, you likely could have bought the right one.....

As a 51' owner, I appreciate all their efforts then for sure! Giving credit where credit is due, isn't that your group Ed?

I just took the neck into them and asked if they could build me a 2' flange. Best I recall it was 2", or there about, but would suggest measuring to be sure. But any local shop with a lathe should be able to make you one. If push come to shove, I can get you the number of the guy that built mine. You could send him the dimensions and I am sure he would be happy to build you one when the time came. One thing I failed to mention earlier, I did have to order an EXTRA gasket from Tanks Inc. (couple dollars) for the flange to neck. It come with (1), but you need an extra since you are not mating the tank directly to the neck now. i.e., one for neck to flange, and one for flange to tank. But to your point, yes, it would be nice if Tanks Inc. offered that solution, especially since they know the tank is not an exact fit for certain models. But they are commercial, and mass producing these things in a 3rd world country I am sure. So the rational is it would simply cost to much to add another product. Hey, wait a minute! Now that I think about it, maybe I will start building these things and sell them. There's my golden egg! Thanks you! (yea, probably not. Oh well. It was nice being retired for a minute anyway....)

Just 1 suggestion. While I would totally agree with going new from Tanks Inc., I elected to NOT cut the floor on my cab, but rather I had the local machine shop fabricate a 2' bushing for me to raise the neck the proper height to clear the floor. All in I was about $20 in to the bushing and didn't have to modify my cab. Just food for thought....

And boy was my dad PISSED about it too.....

Jon, If I told you it was a total blast, it still would not accurately describe it! Loving it! just put up a couple more recent pictures of it. Otto, Everything I read said no need to change, original starter can handle the additional voltage. So, reluctantly I went with it figuring either way (meaning it handled it or it didn't) I would be changing the starter. Much to my surprise, it works fine. I would even go as far as to say it works better then it did before. Now that being said, I do not stay on it, and on it, when it is cold. But you shouldn't be doing this on a modern starter either though. But when starting, I engage it for about 3 seconds-ish, let off, and then repeat as needed. Truthfully, converting was best thing for me and the truck. It starts better, it runs better, it does everything better in my opinion. In short, I wouldnt change it unless just had too. Now just for general update/discussion, I have moved into the lighting phase of the truck. Had to since changing over to 12 volt. Only thing lacking now is the rear turn signals. Have tail lights but no blinky blinky. At the risk of offending some, I added halo running lights and turn signals when I swaped the headlights. wired them to come on with parking lights. And I have to tell you, I actually kind of like it. Truck is running and driving better then it has in a while I am sure, maybe ever......