jeffsunzeri

I run a '42 WD-21 with the dually rear end. It is a similar setup as yours. The rear end ratio is actually a 5.23 or so, and 47 mph is good cruise. I've been toying with adding a Gear Vendors overdrive. It seems to be the best solution for a better highway speed. The issues with the GV OD box are: 1. Cross-member interference 2. Fuel tank is very close to the drive line. 3. Hand brake at trans end. It appears that the solution will be to add the GV box nearer the diff, but I have not called GV for their suggestions. They seem to have fitted these boxes to just about everything. If you give them a call, share the info. I simply have not had the time to follow through on this as other projects keep getting in the way. In the end, I'm pretty certain the GV solution will be the best.

Least painful in both dollars and effort will be to replace the short 218/230 with a long 251/265. Take a little care in building the 265 and you'll end up with around 270 cubic inches, and around 160 HP+ with a great torque range. This will be close to double the original HP, and on par with a healthy 318 V-8 with a 2 bbl.

Neither ignition nor radio changes are good reasons to change system voltage and incur the cost of molesting your vehicle with a new coil, generator/alternator, all bulbs, regulator/rectifier, flasher, blower motor(s), wiper motor, etc. Electronic ignitions are readily available in 6 volt at the same cost as 12 volt, and all the 12 volt accessories you could want can be run from a converter, starting at around $60 and available all over. Of course, you can do whatever you want but I just feel it's a shame to needlessly molest something that has lasted this long as a messenger from the past, and is likely to survive both you and me and can continue to be a touchstone for others to come.

Don't do it. There is no good reason to convert to 12 volts, especially if you are bad at the "math part on electricity" and plan on introducing rhunts into the system.

Wow. What a beautiful, unmolested time capsule. Please, oh please don't upgrade anything - just refresh, restore and enjoy. You've been given quite a gift, as I'm sure you may know.

Dope is not fuel-proof. To re-hab the old float, do a mild acid etch then dip in clear fuel-proof epoxy or polyurethane. Depending on the size of the cracks, you may want to brush a small amount on the cracks, and let it dry before dipping to avoid filling the float. Both coatings are available from aircraft suppliers, made by Randolph (Ranthane polyurethane) and Stits (epoxy). Follow the mixing instructions and these coatings are fuel-proof.

Aviation cork floats used on fuel gauges are sealed with either clear polyurethane or clear epoxy. Sloshing compound is too heavy to use on a float. I would not use cork in the carburetor float. You could make your own float of brass sheet, or more likely use a float or float assembly from another carb. What model carb is it? It's hard to believe that it would be a one-off assembly, especially considering the world of tractors and other vehicles using non-pressurized carbs.

It's occasions like this that make us run out of cuss words.

I've been actually using my '47 for well over 30 years and have tried a number of tie-down configurations. I carry everything from 3 dirt bikes, to tarped dirt, to kettle drums (don't ask), and large radial engines in the bed of the WC-15 (same as the low-side later beds). I've found the best tie-down support to be the permanent loops used on the 1941 WC-1 bed sides. Later models such as the Power Wagons have an open-hook that I don't like. The government-spec military does get it right now and then.

Some folks without the proper puller get pretty aggressive with torches and hammers on these rear drum and axle assemblies and end up warping the drum and sometimes the axle shaft itself. Before pulling the axles, try swapping drums from left to right.

Probably little in terms of damaging anything but wiring. The components likely have survived, but you will have to inspect all the suspect wiring for melted insulation. You should open the looms to make sure you have found all potential shorts caused by burned insulation before putting power back to the system and causing more damage. Your are not the first, I assure you.

By the way, to check the distributor problem: 1. Remove the dist. cap. 2. Remove the distributor from the block. 3. Using a long screwdriver, stick it down the distributor hole placing the blade in the slot that is meant to drive the distributor. 4. Have your helper hit the starter momentarily and notice if the screwdriver moves. If the screwdriver moves while the starter cranks, you've got the wrong length distributor. If the screwdriver doesn't move, you've got a broken oil pump, or a broken cam. This test should take all of about 12.475 minutes.

Quick Start Alternator Parts offers a kit to convert an old junk-yard alternator to 6 volt, positive ground for about $40. The conversion is about a 2 out of 10 on the knuckle-buster meter.

double check your points gap. If the gap was accurate, then try advancing the timing a few degrees (turn the distributor against the direction of rotation about 5 degrees).

Jeff, I know you've done some pretty thoughtful and creative things to your truck, and it sounds like a cool vehicle, but the cost of staying 6 volt being $500 more than converting to 12 volt sounds a little incredulous. Could you break that down? What 6 volt component cost substantially more than a 12 volt counterpart? I'm not doubting you at all, just interested in what you've encountered. When I've done 12 volt conversions , they actually cost substantially more than sticking with 6 volt due to the cost of: - converting the fuel gauge - replace ignition coil - replacing all bulbs - replacing charging circuit components - if present, replacing or converting clock, blower motor(s), wiper motors, radio - Labor cost - nobody's time is free It used to be that converting to 12 volt would allow one to operate modern radios and stereos and other components, but with inexpensive converters being readily available, add-on components can be any voltage or polarity one could imagine nowadays. Six volt batteries and electronic ignitions are readily available today everywhere on the planet at the same or very comparable cost of 12 volt components.

My '47 pickup had the same style bumper as yours. I removed it to go to a more original bumper and found that both rear fenders had rusted through where the bumper met the fender and trapped dirt, leafy matter, and such. There is no better carb upgrade available. Many will fit, but pose various problems and don't provide any advantage. There is no good reason to convert to 12 volts. None.

If you've got knocking (more likely pinging) when accelerating, you've got a timing problem. The timing is too advanced, so retard it a bit. The factory manuals refer to timing by listening for knocking when accelerating up a slight incline. Their advice is to advance the timing slightly just until pinging/knocking happens on acceleration, and then back off a small amount for correct timing without using a timing light. Pertronix installations don't fix bad timing.

Actually, all of those symptoms are fairly easy to see, diagnose, and fix with the appropriate tools. The best tool for diagnosis of all the items you mention is an old Sun (or equivalent) diagnostic station, with a complete scope and meters. The companion tool is a distributor machine which will diagnose all sorts of issues related to the distributor. Champion also made a good ignition diagnosis scope suitable for the small shop, and it's available on eBay from time to time, with the instruction manual. Of course the best tools are no good unless the technician knows how to use them. Sadly, I don't think there are many mechanics around with that knowledge, but an astute person with a little time can teach him or herself using the old manuals that came with the systems.

Check your gauge first. It's simple to do, and pretty important for your peace of mind. It's about a 3 on the 1-10 scale of difficulty: 1. Drain your coolant. 2. Remove the temperature bulb from the head (rear left side). Make sure to use two good fitting flare-nut wrenches to avoid twisting and breaking the capillary tube. 3. Borrow a cooking thermometer from the Kitchen. 4. Boil a pot of water and take it to your car, and submerge the bulb in the water with the thermometer. 5. Have a friend note the needle position on the gauge as you read the temperatures. It should take about 20 seconds for the gauge to fully react. You want to have the first half of the gauge read up to 160 - 180 Deg. F. This is where your engine temperature should remain if all is well and healthy. As gauges get old, they tend to indicate low. When you're done calibrating your gauge, re-fit the bulb. You won't need any sealant. Refill with 50/50 coolant. If you don't have good wrenches, or if you doubt your 'skillful touch', have an experienced mechanic do this to avoid damaging the capillary.

Check the heat range on your plugs too. Someone might have changed to plugs to help accommodate the larger carb.

I have hauled many Chevy engines and transmissions to the scrap yard in the trunk of a '47 Plymouth and in the back of a '42 and '47 Dodge truck. I used plastic sheeting to protect the bed and trunk compartments from soiling.

That would make the 218 into a 230. I've done just that on at least one engine, and you end up with at least 10 more HP. You just need to change the carb for the bigger displacement and you're good to go.

The IND-30 engine is the short block, 230 cu in. motor. It should plop right into your Plymouth without issue.

The Chrysler industrial engines have (came with, may have been removed over the years) a sheet metal ID plate indicating that it is a "Chrysler Industrial" motor riveted to the side of the engine. Clark used Chrysler Industrial engines in their tugs from at least 1941 on into the late 1950's (Clarktor 6, etc.). Most Clark forklifts used the 4 cylinder Continental engine. Many combines used the long-block Chrysler Industrial engines on into the late 1960's. If you've got a Clark/Chrysler 6 it will differ in distributor and head studs in place of head bolts, and that's about it, and it's a 217.9 CU IN or if later than 1950, probably a 230 CU IN.