teardrop puller

I run the E-bay 3 core with A/C and have not had a problem. It did not bolt in directly, but a couple of holes fixed that right up.

I love my Explorer rear end. The 97 has 3.73, posi, and disk brakes. They are cheep and lots of them around. I think I made a mistake torching off the brackets for the sway bar, it would be great to fit a sway bar in the rear. All I did was cut off the Explorer spring perches and welded the stock P18 mounts in the correct position.

Here are the parts (steering arms) that my local welder made for me from the old arms. The length is 3 1/4" center to center from the tie rod hole to the nearest hole. I had to straighten the stock inner tie rod ends from the Cavalier, but that was the only change I made to the original setup after installing the new steering arms. Took it for a drive today and how sweet it is being able to turn around in the street or a quick corner, with out having to take two or three swipes at it. Have not had it out on the highway yet, maybe I will have to look for a Cavalier rack with more turns of the wheel for the full throw. kai

A friend of mine sent this to me. If it has been here before, I apologize. http://www.lov2xlr8.no/broch1.html (I had to copy and paste the above into URL space) kai

I think you can buy a Ford dipstick (70's I think) at any auto parts that has the wall of chrome stuff. I think the only thing you have to do is cut the dipstick itself and calibrate it. Just compare the length after the "bump" and mark accordingly. good luck kai

I added a electric brake controller for the stopping. It is not hard and you do not have to rewire the whole car. The only problem is normally you have to have 12V. It really helps with the stopping, those disk brakes only go so far. I think a trailer with out brakes only requires that you buy the brake stuff. I should just bolt on to the axle stubs. kai

BeBop138 What are the dimensions of the finished spindle? I am afraid that if I try to measure from the photo, it will not be as accurate as it should be. Thanks kai

I made this little adapter so that I could use the stock tie rod end (right hand thread - inner) and the stock Cavalier adjuster. Since you modified the steering arms the length of the cut off tie rod probably will change a little. The right hand thread of the tie rods that you have listed as not used are the ones I cut for the adapter. If only I could weld as well as your guy does, love it. kai

Lee What is the reservoir you are using for the PS? What adapter did you use on the pump to go to a remote reservoir? thanks kai

This is really of topic, however it is a little in site into how we use the P18, when we are not driving it. click on this article to read about our "joint" in Mexico after you open the web site http://www.mexconnect.com/. Retirement in Paradise: a '50s burger drive-in on Mexico's Emerald Coast kai

It is so ugly, I think it is gorgeous. kai

My P18 had a bypass "thingie" that I thought was Pot Metal. My battery tray is aluminum painted black. kai

I made one from a piece of flat metal with a 1/2" galvanized "T" brazed to the base. I posted photos, but can not find it. It was easy enough to make, If you are interested, I can go take a photo of it on the engine. kai

Mike Check out these sites for rod ends and such. http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pontiac/center-steer-rnp.html http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=MRCES2217R_0131648649&An=599001+101990+50012+2012016 This later model cavalier rod end is longer with different thread. http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?A=MRCES3374_0131649840&An=599001+102004+50012+2012016 kai