lheadandy

I have the bumper ends but no centre sections, they will need to be re chromed of course. and also some of those little cowl sections of stainless trim (now they are hard to find) if you need them

I just rebuilt a ford steering box out of a 1948 to51`F1. While looking at it I decided to compare it to a 46, 47 dodge box. The shaft diameter, thw worm and the gear on the sector shaft are identical to the ford! The sector shaft itself is larger in diameter on the dodge, so the bushings in the steering box are not the same, but the bearings on the worm gear top and bottom are the same also. I was able to assemble the old ford worm and bearings into nthe dodge housing and it worked! The reason why I was rebuilding the ford steering box was because of a sloppy bit right in the middle, the bit where you want to be mopst of the time i.e dead ahead. the problem was it had been adjusted all the way out through the years, The worm looked alright but the gear on the sector shaft had what looked like a small crater on the thrust face of one of the flutes. That was the dead ahead spot I changed the worm, bearings and cups and the gear on the sector shaft because I had already bought them ( $200) and I wouldnt have been able to change the sector gear if I hadnt of had a bridgeport, thats the hard part. Adjustment is easy enough but when you get to the end of it youll have to take it apart. Getting it out of the car is a bitch.

I had a 51 wayfarer that wouldnt start sometimes, on the key but would ALWAYS start pushed down a hill. Everything electrical checked out also fuel system. Stumped I called in a mechanic I knew. He told me the compression was down in the middle two cylinders, 3 and 4. Pulled the head, not a big job the exhaust valves in those two cylinders had been adjusted too tight and when the engine got warm they didnt seat, result no compression no start. I replaced the valves in question. re cut all the seats. while I was in there re ringed it and new rod bearings, fixed. The exhaust valves in 3and4 cylinders run hotter than all the rest, the two I replaced were burned badly on the the sealing area of the valve itself .I think its possible that the valve might seal sometimes and not others. Thats what I know for what its worth.

I would say that is a pre 49 pump, no shoe you see. Have you had any joy with the running yet? Just out of curiosity, what is your engine number, and does it have the extra water passage 'hump ' at the front of the cylinder head?

Ive had 4 dodges from 46 to 51 all had D on the head. And one plymouth 55 with P on the head. When I was younger I bought a chrysler head with spitfire on it. I liked the word spitfire so I bought it to put on my 51 wayfarer. The car is gone, but Ive still got the chrysler head. That makes me a sht head.

I read somewhere that you have a 53 engine. that would be a small ecentric cam. If youve got an early type pump the effect might be not enough pump rod travel and so no enough fuel volume or perhaps pressure. I knew a fellow in miami who sold his De Soto for this reason. It was a coupe and he loved it, I didnt have the heart to tell him the pump story.

I came unstuck using that tank coating on my harley. The coating peels off of the dry parts of the tank and the flakes settle over the outlet. Then the engine stops, one time in a junction turning left!

This crankshaft flange business, Its all myths and ledgends. Somebody must know. (its not me)

I love sLoPaR stuff, but the brakes can go to hell. I know how to fix them and I can make them work. Go to old daddy and get a disc conversion for the front at least. As for me,"I will fight no more forever".

I dont know if this will help but... I had all kinds of fuel problems with my 47 dodge coupe. Every time I took it out on the road (on the road mark you) it would run out of gas with the tank full and would not restart. So, drag it back home. Sometimes without doing anything to it the bloody thing would, as if by magic start and idle just fine! Checked everything found nothing. BUT the fuel pump was new so decided to get the old one out. The mistake was mine I had put on a post 49 pump the type with the riveted on shoe that contacts the ecentric on the cam. What was happening was the pump push rod was going too high in the housing and was getting wedged against a casting web inside the housing right up inside, whereupon the pump stopped pumping and the engine just stopped, never at the same time or distance from home but always at high demand for gas. Sometimes it came unwedged on the tow home and would restart and sometimes not. Have you looked at the fuel pump? and is it the right one? 1947 dodge large ecentric, no shoe pump 1949 up dodge smaller ecentric, shoe on pump. Thats what I have found.

I had a 51 wayfarer once, It was the best car I ever owned had very few problems with it. I sold it to a guy who, as soon as he got it home changed the gearbox oil. He called me shortly after complaining that it wouldnt go into gear while the engine was running. It was always good while I owned it so I went over to look at it. The clutch and selector levers had not been touched. I couldnt understand what had happened until he told me he had changed the oil for 90 weright oil. Too thick, it would go into any gear just as it should when not running. He dropped the 90, flushed the box with diesel and added 40w. That was it. My 2 cents.