navyboy

We need more pictures, snapped some of mine.

I really appreciate the detailed response guys! I went home tried it with no avail then seen all the other post afterwards with pics realizing I thought the horn ring came with the center didn't realize its the center and then the horn ring is removed next. I will give it a try again in the morning when I get home from work.

so I plan to redo the trim interior for paint and I really need to pull the steering wheels to repair some cracks and get a better finish for when I shoot the paint. BUT I can't get this stupid horn ring off! I have tried everything and did a search in the forum but nothing. Some say to look for screws behind the steering wheel and although mine has holes behind the steering wheel no screws exist, I have tried pushing the horn in and turning it left and right but nothing. SO any sugestions of what I may be doing wrong? Help. I added a picture so you know what IM working with, the ugly steering wheel cover is long gone lol.

champions suck, they even corrode badly, I would go with autolites. Sounds more like ignition issues, I would check spark plugs, points, timing, and change the fuel filter, also an oil change if you haven't done one since the rebuild as well a valve check.

here ya go.

Just seen this as well.....It's no secret what I do lol.

I would def put a fuel filter just before the carb, all that junk you may be seeing at the fuel pump is just a taste of what now sits in your bowl in the carb, I bet if you took the top of the carb off and looked down you would go oh **** lol. You should not have a filter before the mechanical pump it should be after as a mechanical "sucks" fuel from a tank on top of its gravity feed and a filter before a mechanical pump makes that pump not perform at its full potential and a dirty filter will just make a pump act like its going bad, I have two fuel filters, right between my electric 6v pump and gas tank near the rear axle that filters bigger particulates, then after my mechanical pump just before the carb to get the very small particulates, my electric pump pushes so I can run the twin filters with ease and you dont want that type of filter at the carb as you would near a tank.

I have a champion 3 row as well, I like it a lot and for the price hard to beat! Make sure you use the stock PSI rated cap though not the one that comes with it just because it can handle higher pressure doesnt mean your stock heater core can and will blow that sucker apart lol trust me on this. I didnt get mine on ebay though. I also have a split manifold with Dynomax race bullet twin muffler, closer to the manifold louder she is! I like loud but no mufler can mean drone on the highway, mine rumbles at idle, nice rasp on acceleration, and music to my ears on the interstate.

Best 6V battery I have ever owned. Everything else starts to fail on me or worse begins to corrode and everything around it, not anymore. I still think 6V is KING in a classic car no reason to change over.

I also insulated all my fuel lines to keep heat away, I used reflective blanket heat shielding ovver all the lines that enter the engine bay to the pump and then pushed stainless braid hose over my hard line from the pump to the carb and helped a lot. I also have the heat shield for the fuel pump and took some metal reflective tape that sticks very well and shapes easily over the fuel pump and shield and stuffed some insulator between the pump and the shield. The biggest thing that helped me hands down though was installing a 6v electric fuel pump back by the tank wired up to a switch under the dash, that solved every issue I had and has been great since the pump install, I run it with my mechanical pump still inline but you can bypass the mechanical pump is you want and keep it on the block, I would just plug the in/out of the mechanical pump if you wanted that route but I would just leave it inline and use both.

should be able to remove the panel but the gauges would all need to be completly disconnected first. The engine temp though should be pulled from the motor not the gauge if I remember correctly.

-Ask and you shall recieve!

sweet yea one wire here, it should work if not im having a bonfire with my car, j/k.

agreed.

is that stupid flex hose that goes from your hard line to the pump old, they are known to collapse with old age under pressure. Also pull the fuel sender out carefully not to damage it, then take a LED flashlight and shine it into the tank to take a look, if its slight corrosion its not something to freak about, but if you start seeing big chunks of flake metal like rolled sheets then it needs a tank replacement and are available, ebay has one for a 52 for 300$ and that may work on yours but you may have to see if they cross reference or if they have one for your particular year.----Does your car have a clear fuel filter to see if its full of gas at engine operating temps? I was constantly getting hardly any gas to the filter even with a good tank/lines with a new pumps as soon as this spring hit with warmer weather so I installed a 6v positive ground fuel pump from a early ford company and it brought my fuel pressure up just enough I have no fuel issues anymore, the pump is wired to a switch under my dash so I have complete control of it and puts out around 4psi. Paid like 60$ and a few hours of my time, one of my best investments for my car other than the 6v optima battery and 6v positive ground alternator.

6v? I would just get a 6v optima battery, I have one and its a beast. one word for cost AMAZON!!!!! shipped to my door for like 112$ vs the 200$ chain stores wanted for it. Best value. I wouldn't bother putting some cheap junk in my classic driver.

yea sure wish I myself could also find some locals that come onto this site, have seen some pre 48 plymouth at a few shows but they said that dont come to this site. Nearest person I know from my location is in Joplin and plan to check his car out when I travel this summer.

Just wanted to say thanks to the awesome folks on this forum, not to many places you can go to get the information you need to keep your loved classic on the road by good people and not expecting something always in return. I was able to do a rebuild this past weekend with better than hopeful results and now get to take my daughter to her school car show in our 52'. THANK YOU AND GOD BLESS TO ALL!!

also what did you replace it with to get the correct readings? would our fuel gauges by so similar in my 52 as your 38 that I would just end up with the same readings as you did? I would really prefer something that just fn works, but the stocks ones seems to not last for crap. any suggestions.

send me a pm$

is it like a tap and dye?

The Datcon model p/n 100437 is the one I planned to use and was to JC use to carry it for like 20$, what a perfect score but seems they dont carry it anymore. I ony found one place that does carry it and its like 80$ stupid price I think. I cant find any other place that does carry it? Do you or anyone else have any links for this part at a better price? I'm finding nothing in my searches and I would really like to get this fixed.

Thanks, got it figured out and rebuilt, runs like a dream.

Polarization restores the residual magnetism in the cores of the generator field poles so that when the generator starts charging it will do so in the proper polarity. It is usually not necessary to re-polarize unless the generator has been removed and repaired or the regulator has been changed. If this has occured, then re-polarization should be done before starting the engine. Otherwise, the generator may not charge or it could charge in the reverse direction. Re-polarizing is relatively easy to do. All that is necessary is to briefly connect the generator armature to the battery hot terminal. The most convenient way to do this is to take a short jumper wire and touch it to the "Batt" and "Gen" terminals on the voltage regulator. At the moment of contact you should see a slight spark. This indicates that the process is completed. It should be noted that it is the generator that is being polarized, not the regulator.

I have the carb at home torn down and soaking to be cleaned and have a rebuild kit that just came in today, I know how to put her all back together but I cant figure out what settings per spec for two things. I know what the float is to be set. Its a d6h2 carb. Now it has a plunger on the idle screw side and I need to know what the measurement for that is, I know its suppose to freely go up and down and at what points I make this measurement, I also need the measurement of travel for the other plunger on the opposite side. Thanks guys!!!!Float bowl is to my understanding 5/64 +- so much.