E.L Lane's 48

As I recall, I had to remove pedals and all as one piece since the metal rod you speak of is made into the master. Just unbolt the foot pads from the pedal arms and then munipulate them out through the floor pan attached to the master. you can then remove the pedal arms if needed. I just left them attached. you will want to bench test the master before reinstalling. I did this by capping the lines, filling with fluid and while in the vice putting pressure on the brake pedal to check for any leaks. Hope this helps.

My 48 Plymouth Special Deluxe has a push pull throttle control. It looks to be a stock installation, but im by far no expert on this subject!

Hey guys, I'm from the car side but I saw this add on Craigslist an thought I would share. pretty rough but may be salvageable. http://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/3589020657.html

Found this on craigslist, and thought I would pass it on. Looks to be in decent shape. Not associated with sale. http://hickory.craigslist.org/cto/3596706843.html

Local craigslist add. Price maybe a bit high. Looks to be original, but not much info. Still like the nostalgia.http://asheville.craigslist.org/cto/3418812587.html

I am pretty sure you should have a return spring connected to the brake pedal to assist in its return. Also seems like you have a lot of pedal travel when brakes are applied. Are your shoes (assuming you are using stock brakes) adjusted correctly in association with the drums. If not it can cause the illusion of air in the lines or too much pedal travel. No expert, just my 2 cents.

Thanks Don, that helps me rule out the switch being bad. Now I will start the grouling task of chasing the dead short.

Thanks for the reply Greg. The terminal strip has been replaced and the wiring is good. Brake light switch is newer lever type that I replaced the old hydrolic switch with. My question is, does the switch have a positive and a negative terminal or is it just a pass through fused ckt that gets its ground from the chassis. I am trying to rule out a bad switch or dead short. Thanks again.

Hello all, Before I get started I will say I have downloaded a wiring schematic from the site which has been somewhat helpfull. However my problem is that I keep blowing the 30 amp fuse in the back of the headlight switch(the fuse immediately blows when I put it in). I have disconnected all of the wiring to the parking,tail and headlights from the switch. The power from the battery is the only thing still connected. Now to my question. Of the 2 wires still connected(on the back of switch at fuse) should 1 be 6v+ and the other be 6v-, or is it just power through the fused ckt? With my meter I am reading a closed ckt of 6v across these 2 wires. Is this correct or do I have a dead short somewhere? Thanks in advance.

Not to hyjack the thread,but when I was installing my new gas tank in my 48' p15 I noticed that the sending unit cover in the trunk had wood grain on the underside. I figured that they must have stamped the cover out out of the blank from the speaker hole in the dash. That just goes to show that there wasn't much waste in the factory back in the day!

I went with the rusty hope kit, and am very pleased with it. Fairly easy install, and good quality brackets. That being said I still ended up spending close to $550-$600 on the kit after purchasing,rotors,calipers,pads,wheel bearings,new hard lines,and hoses. I also rebuilt my master, and rear wheel cylinders. If nothing else at least I know I can stop!

That thing got a hemi?

Try these links. This is the route I went and I am pretty satisfied with the result. Easy install. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Universal-Alloy-Steel-Truck-Gas-Fuel-Tank-street-rod-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53dd64e754QQitemZ360196663124QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/45-46-47-48-DODGE-CHRYSLER-PLYMOUTH-GAS-SENDING-UNIT-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4cf379b1f9QQitemZ330502353401QQptZVintageQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Ask the seller of the tank for a 60 degree filler tube instead of the 45 degree. It is required for the correct fitment of tank. The sending unit works with the original guage.

I think it is 6006. I got mine from O'Reilys

Just thought I might pass this along to any perspective buyers. Looks to be in decent shape. Not my add, Just passin it on:D http://greenville.craigslist.org/cto/2205717328.html