52dodge

Thanks guys ill print the scan and try it when i get the tranny back this week.As for the fluid my manual says 2 3/4 pints of SAE 10-W Does this seem correct to use 10w motor oil in a standard 3 speed?

they said it would come to $233 shipped, they also offer a non aluminized system for $40 cheaper,is the aluminized metal that much better? I dont drive in salt/snow or rain ,rather spend the extra money and not have it rot off in two years

I see this guy advertizing exhaust systems on ebay pretty cheap,he has a complete aluminized exhaust for my car for $198,anybody heard gd or bad or used them?

Anyone know where i can buy this gasket? Or is this something ill have to make? Also what kind of fluid and how much does my 3 speed standard take?

i got new wheel cyl,wheel bearings,and races from advance auto today they had listings for all parts

I plan on replacing my oil pan gasket while im doing the clutch in my 52,does fel pro make a 1 piece oil pan gasket for these cars yet?Mines leaking in the rear of the pan

is this a new issue that just started or has it been getting worse over time?

does it slightly grind then go into gear or does it not wanna go into gear at all? does it help any shifting at different rpms?

i tried sending you a message but your profile said you cant recieve messages,im in you're area and have a few questions for you,do you have a contact number?

thanks for the info greg,im headed to Utica fri with my transmission, a place called Professional transmissions is going to replace the syncros and go through it for me,ever heard of them?

is the valve being stuck in the open position that i hear causes burnt valves?

the shaft and the plate are missing,sandwiching a thin plate in there shouldn't cause and misalignment issues with the haves should it? Also i read that special washers are used under the manifold bolt heads,where can these be purchased?

so i should sandwich a plate between the two manifold halves to block it off since i have no valve at all?

im a little confused on what would be considered open position, if the valve is cut completely out would that be considered open? Im confused because i read of some guys putting a blockoff plate between the two manifold halves

My 230ci has a cracked exhaust manifold that sounds like **** and drives me nuts.The guy i got the car from gave me a spare exhaust manifold with the car.Problem is the heat control valve must of froze up up at some point and someone hacked it out.How important is this valve?I only drive my car during the summer in warm weather.Will the motor still perform normal without this valve?Im assuming it will take longer to warm up which would be fine with me.I looked at the heater control valve on my cracked manifold and its not even totally functional.The spring is broken and the valve just flops in whatever position it wants and the car runs great so im assuming the car would operate fine without this valve?

where's a good source for new shoes?

i do not have the gyromatic,just a regular 3 speed standard

I thought about changing the fluid in the tranny to see if the issue would go away but i think that would just be a band-aid.My manual also says 10w oil,thats what ill be refilling it with when i get it back

thanks for the help! I ordered those syncros last night .

My Dodge has a brake issue.When i first take off the brakes work well.The more i use them they started to pull real bad to the right so i pulled the front right drum to see what was going on.There was a light misting of brake fluid on the wheel cylinders and backing plate but the shoes appeared dry and to be wearing even.To my suprise my local advance auto had both the upper and lower wheel cylinders but could not get the brake shoes.I read that brake fluid can get into the shoe itself and might be causing the violent pull when the brakes get hot.Can i wash/sand the old shoes or should i get replacments.They have a ton of meat left and were wearing even.I know the orignals were bonded linings and i see complete shoes on ebay for $60 bucks.I also hear that if the ones im looking at on ebay are nos or have some age the linings can seperate from age.So wheres a good place to get new shoes if thats what i need to do.Also i looked at the brake hoses as part of the problem but they appear to be new.Thanks.......ed

thanks! So these will be all my tranny guy will need to replace the syncros? I bought items from this ebayer in the past,

would anybody know the model or part numbers of the syncro ring?

One other thing i figured id address while its apart,something when i shift into second i get a slight/small grind,it never fights me going into gear just make an annoying little grind,will the new clutch solve this or is it a worn syncro?it only does it going into second and not in any other gear,i have a few local tranny shops with semi old timers but im afraid they wont be able to get the parts to fix the issue.

what size and pitch are the tranny bolts so i can go to the hardware store and get some threaded rod to make alighnment bolts?Also is there an inspection cover to take a look at the clutch disc without removing the tranny?I wanna be sure there no oil or fluid on the disc so i can try to get everything im gonna need to do the job.The fluid coupler was full when i checked it so i believe all is well there but wanna be sure im not gonna need any other gaskets while im in there

i do have a inch of free play in the clutch pedal, when i got the car i noticed the slipping so i checked the fluid level in the fluid drive,it was 100% full,i changed the fluid anyways and refilled it with ISO32 fluid,still slips,it mostly slips in 3rd gear going up a hill but will also slip in second with too much throttle when going uphill.As a test i put it in 3rd with my foot on the brake at a stop and it will rev right up,i haven't smelled any burning clutch yet cause i back off the gas when it starts to slip and allow it to grab again,im planning on replacing the clutch, pressure plate,pilot bearing and throw out bearing to make sure i only gotta do the job once,kanters has the clutch disc for $125 and the pressure plate for $125