52dodge
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Everything posted by 52dodge
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is this "brummer" slip in seal a gd seal design? Should i replace it with the same design or do i have the option of something better?
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thanks guys,seems like this mystery gasket of mine is finally getting figured out.Im getting outta work now and going over to the garage to take a bunch of pics of the main cap and back of the block.
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I didn't get them over the phone but when they arrive ill post them up.
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where do i find this slip in non bolted style?
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if anybody needs gaskets i found them Valley Gear in NJ 1800-874-4408.
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yep i believe thats the same style
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I got a call this morning from the tranny shop thats installing my new syncos,they said it was very very dirty inside, fluid looked like molasses, syncros were little wore but not too bad,they said they need gaskets and they cant locate them.Said i need the side cover gasket, extension housing gasket and throwout collar gasket,anybody know where i can locate these?
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so mine must be the oddball version lol just my luck,like i said there's nothing holding the top half in except the grove it rides in
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thats what mine is,it rides in a grove,nothing holds the upper half in except the grove,what should i use for replacment?
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ok with some love and swearing i got it out,the rubber was hard as a rock and came out in tiny pieces, i hope installing the new one is easier.
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i also notice there 3 threaded holes above/behind the rear crank flange where nothing is bolted,im guessing this is where a rope style seal would mount? Did blocks that used the neoprene gasket also have provisions for the rope style?
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ok so im here now working on my 52,i removed the flywheel,oil pan and rear main cap,i do not have the rope seal,it a neoprene rubber version,whats the best way to get the upper half out? Do i tap on one side and work it around its grove till i can grab the other end with pliers?
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oops sorry don ,so what you guys are saying is if i have the neoprene gasket it can be done without removing the crank? I dont wanna unbolt the flywheel for no reason if i can replace the upper seal with the crank in place,sorry for the confusion, this simple clutch job has become one issue after another. I got the oil pan in the parts washer here at work and cant believe how much,muck and sludge is on the bottom of the pan in the sump area,its almost gray in color and im scraping it off in sheets,the motor runs great though and burns no oil,the original owner i got the car from always kept up with the oil changes so im surprised theres so much sludge
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ok so i tried both robertsmotorsports and oldmoparts and they only offer the bearing without the housing.Im looking for a assembled throwout bearing assembly,any other ideas?Trying to avoid having to press the old bearing off and the new one on.
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i ordered the complete assembly and not just the bearing.Ill try the guys you guys listed
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the bearing i got from the parts store is a National /MOOG brand part #614036
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Well nothing seems to be easy about this car lol,i bought a new throwout bearing assembly and it looks just like the old one except its half the size overall! Almost like a miniature version of what i need,whats going on??
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that would be the easiest way to replace the lower half but i wanna do both halves
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Thanks for the input guys,i did alot of reading on the subject in the search function, the car is currently sitting on a lift with the tranny and clutch removed to do a clutch job.I noticed the oil in the bellhousing and dont wanna complete the clutch job and have the new disc ruined by motor oil.So im assuming the only other thing i need to remove is the fluid drive/flywheel to gain access to the rear main.I didn't see a positive answer on this but can the seal be replaced without loosening/removing the crankshaft? i know the rear main cap has to come off for the lower seal.I have the oil pan off also to do the oil pan seal.
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after closer inspection the actual rear main looks to be rubber material, i also noticed some oil sludge flung up inside the top of the bellhousing area above the converter/fluiddrive,the fluid drive was full when i removed the plug so that don't seem to be leaking any so im assuming its coming from the rear main.The clutch disc was wore but didn't look terribly bad so im wondering if its possible for some oil from a rear main leak to get onto the flywheel and cause the clutch to slip?
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ok guys i dropped my oil pan today to replace the oil pan gasket.It looked to be leaking from the rear of the pan. but im thinking it was also leaking some from the rear main seal.Id like to fix any leaks now while i got the pan off.There looks to be a small shield with a felt like material seal that bolts to the bellhousing and goes between the pan and front of the bellhousing? Whats this felt seal for and is it easy to replace the rear main now that i got the pan off?
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ok someone musta replaced mine at some point cause it has a stant 16lb lever style
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I have been reading about how these old flathead 6 are prone to hot spots from rust and debris in the cooling system so i was wondering if there would be any issues with flushing it with one of those prestone cooling system flush kits that you add the cleaner to the system and hook you're garden hose to it?
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i cleaned and painted it already is the certain holes that do and dont get cut cause when i tipped the tranny foward oil poured out one of the holes
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can someone tell me if this gasket print was correct for them? I dont have my transmission at the time to match it up to.The one side of the gasket is rounded on the corners and the other side looks straight
