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Apittslife

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Everything posted by Apittslife

  1. Apittslife
    Thankyou for the tyme you took to do this, I enjoyed watching them!
  2. Apittslife
    I would make sure that the rear shoes are properly adjusted. If they are, then rebleed the master cylinder. If niether work, then I would use a an adjustable proporioning valve for the rear, as the one you are using isn't keeping enoung residual pressure for the wheel cylinders that you are using.( Large bore VS Small bore ) the larger the Wheelcylinder bore the more fluid it takes to move the pistons, & actuate the rear brakes. The best way to remove air from a Hydrolic system is to reverse bleed it as air always wants to rise. Like removing air from a Hypodermic Needle before getting a shot.
  3. Apittslife
    Beautifully done!
  4. Apittslife
    Apears to be a good foundation, Hope the rebuild goes well.
  5. Apittslife
    Congrats on the truck. Like others said : Looks like a solid vehical to start out with.
  6. Apittslife
    No, That is why I had to cut the cross member, I had no desire to recess the Dakota fire wall. I am going to have to cut a recess for the down pipe coming off the turbo thou.
  7. Apittslife
    Yes, I had to remove that much to clear the rear sump, I have one inch of clearance between everything. Even the front sump would not have worked, because of the rack & pinion. If I was installing a 6-BT I wouldn't have to do that hard of a cut, because you have to cut into the firewall to set the engine back for radiator clearance. Today I flipped the motor mounts so they face forward, & I have the motor mount cross member about 1/2 fabbed, hopefully I will have it finished on sunday. Going to the Sprint cup race saturday, @ the Kentucky speed way.
  8. Apittslife
    I cut 3 inches out of it. Yes it is a large cut, But the cross-member actually runs under the rack & pinion, so I will say I removed half of it. I used 1/4 inch plate to fill in what I cutout. When I re-install the engine I am hoping to be able to add some metal to the bottom area. I am not worried, & It will be safe!
  9. Apittslife
    Well did some work on the frame today. I notched out the cross-member for Oil pan clearance. Just as I was ready to set the engine in place so I can fab the motor mounts, It starts raining! Motor is in another building.
  10. Apittslife
    Congrats! New build or just a parts truck?
  11. Apittslife
    I wasn't saying he shouldn't take up the offer. Just wanted him to see that if you have the desire & some skill, you can do it, & Laid-Out's work is a Great Example!
  12. Apittslife
    Check this build thread out, His Metal Skills are SICK! He hand fabricated the front floor & toe boards. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=520334
  13. Apittslife
    Very Kewl Truck, Bunch of money spent there.
  14. Apittslife
    Now days, $1000.00 is cheap, & since you have a Title, & have access to replacement parts that are currently missing, & is something you want, go for it, if you can afford to. I paid the same price for my pilothouse, & then blew it apart to streetrod it. I tend to dought I will recoop my money should I have to sell it, but I am building it for myself with no desire to sell it!
  15. Apittslife
    A stabilizer like you will see on some 4x4's. With the leaf spring style suspension, it will help firm up the steering feel
  16. Apittslife
    Bad tie rods will make for a scary ride, & Unbalanced tyres in the rear will NOT affect ride quality. You must realize that what you have is a TRUCK, & a sustained 50+ MPH is not what these vehicals were designed for back in the day. I would suggest a steering stabilizer shock for the front end, Make sure that there is little play in the steering box, & replace the bad tie rod ends.
  17. Apittslife
    Today, it will not. I am going to have to replace the coil springs with a set that will handle the weight, which is something I need to work on next week. The rest of the suspension will be able to handle the weight. I purchased a set of hydrolic motor mounts, & the transmission mount today.
  18. Apittslife
    Test fit the engine today, Tried to do so with the transmission bolted to the engine, & that was a no go. Only way to install it them is separately. I will need to cut out some of the rear section of the cross-member, so I can move the engine forward about 2 inches.
  19. Apittslife
    Ok, I am a bit ignorant with what is or isn't an electronic transmission. Mine does NOT have the 8 pin connector, It has two 3 pin connectors.
  20. Apittslife
    This is what my money got me yesterday, Adapter Plate was included but I mounted it to the engine prior to remembering to take pics. Close up of the trans, converter & Flex plate Pic of the Adapter plate mounted to the Engine Pic of transmission dry fit to Enigine to make sure it fit
  21. Apittslife
    No, It is controlled by pressure switches. Some people use switches to manually engage & or disengage as well.
  22. Apittslife
    From the bit of reading I have just done, It is Electronic. But it is easily modified to work with out the PCM http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/showthread.php?t=156988 http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/94-trans-93-t114702p2.html
  23. Apittslife
    Last tyme I tried to post a picture, All I got was the URL to the photos I will be taking more pics over the next few days & weeks.
  24. Apittslife
    Thanks Chris, I am Hoping it will. I will have to do the pressure switch mods for the Lock-out & Over-drive, But they seem to be pretty straight forward. So I will be able to keep things simple under the hood. The trans is from a '95 Ram 2500. the Owner/Seller says that it was rebuilt about a yr ago, & he drove it for about 3 months before pulling the engine for his swap. So far I have been doing good keeping the costs down, & hope to keep doing so.
  25. Apittslife
    Was cruising Craigs List yesterday afternoon, & came across an add for a Chrysler Diesel Transmission (47RH) for sale, He is doing a Cummins/Ford swap so Along with the Transmission I am also getting the Trans adapter & Drive shaft. He needs to remove them from the truck so I will be going to get them later this week.
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