Bingster

Were you the fella that said the butyl rubber smelled strong in hot weather?

I went into Napa today and they couldn't find the number 5752 for the front shocks so he phoned Monroe, and the Monroe guy said they only had shocks for the '49 and '50 Desoto and it was the 5752 for the front. I assume that even though Monroe doesn't list the 5752 as being for the '46-'48 Desotos, that it will be the correct shock for the front??? Do you think there is any big difference (besides the price) of the Kanter shock listed for this year?

While we're on this subject, I've found two types of weatherstrip patterns for a '47 Desoto door. Steele has them. I guess I'll have to see which is on my car now.

I think you're right. It was him who posted that on that site. And since it was a '50 not a 46, 47 or 48, that doesn't count. It seems that enough of you fellas have used them with no problem. I sure don't mind saving the money!!

You did a great job! That'sot easy to get smooth a finish from an old cracked wheel. I have to do mine. What epoxy did you use? I was going to get the Eastwood kit but it's all probably similar.

I WAS TOLD BY eASTWOOD THAT YOU DO HAVE TO SANDBLAST THE HEADERS FOR THESE TYPES OF PAINTS TO WORK PROPERLY. i CAN'T DO THAT, BUT i DID WIRE BRUSH ALL THE SURFACE STUFF OFF AND DEGREASED THEM. IT LOOKS LIKE THAT SPRAY CAN HAS ONE OF THOSE WIDE FAN NOZZLES. I WISH MORE MANUFACTURERS WOULD USE THOSE AS THEY PROVIDE A MUCH BETTER FAN FOR A SMOOTH COATING.

On my '47 Desoto there are two electrical terminal strips attached to the inside driver's side fender near the front grille. One is for the horn relay and the other for headlights and turn signals. They looked pretty rusted and I thoguht I'd have to buy new, but I found them fairly pricey for what they were. So I wire wheeled the rust off, sawed off the screw bolt terminals and then drilled through the remaining bolts with my drill press. The drill plus heat from the drilling loosened the bolts and they spun right out of their holes. This left the base stampings which I could then paint, and I bought new brass screws for terminals with brass nuts and star washers. I was able to use the old Bakelite or whatever it was insulating material, although new could be made from rubber or even plastic laminate. Not too earth shattering a story but the forty bucks I would have spent on two new terminals went for something else!

Somebody told me that there is a paint for headers that cures with the heat. A kind of ceramic paint? Anybody hear of this?

Okay, so what type paint did you use? I recall reading somebody on this site who used POR15 aluminum paint, and said it lasted a long time. That's what I intend to use on mine.

You have to buy it on line or from a distributor as far as I know. I forget where I bought mine. If you Google POR15 you'll get your answer. But I would also Goggle Eastwood Automotive Products and take a look at their web site. They have a nice catalog too.

I painted mine with POR15 and Eastwood now has an Extreme Chassis Black formula that I am using on my chassis parts. They also have a ceramic black coating that is super resistant. I checked around before selecting the Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black because I am using it on my rims, drums and brake plates. It seemed to be the best of the brake fluid resistant paints available.

Okay, that answers my suspicions about NOS. Bad rubber seals.. As for the shocks. I was a member of another site for Desoto pwners - not the official desoto site but another that I cannot think of the name now - and I know that one of the guys bought Monroe shocks and they broke where the weld meets the "eye" to mount them. He took them to a welder to beef up the weld. I thought at the time that when you add the price of the weld it didn't make a lot of sense to me to but off the shelf shocks. Now, I recall discussions on this board about new shocks and there was a specific Monroe part number that would fit on the front on my '47 Desoto. But again, after hearing other stories, I never followed through. Could the design be different for Dodge and Plymouth than Desoto for that year? Maybe they work better on those than Desotos.

I'll see what I can do!

Yeah, shocks from Kanter Auto Parts.

The front brake hoses on my '47 Desoto have one end the normal screw on connector and the other end is a square nut-type affair with a large hole. Inside the hole is a tiny hole for fluid to pass through. Anybody see this set up? Most hoses I've seen have the screw connector at both ends.

I'm looking to get shocks for my '47 Desoto. Now, there are NOS shocks and Kanter shocks, etc. etc. I'm told by one fella that his Kanter shocks worked great. I don't know about NOS shocks. Anything to be wary about there? I've heard about using Monroes but that the weld can break and that they have to be reinforced with new welding. Any ideas. I lean toward NOS if they would perform okay after sitting all those years. But for a few dollars more Kanter might provide an even better ride with the gas charged.

Where can I get a parts number catalog for a '47 Desoto? So many places ask for parts numbers to look up stuff that I finally feel the need to get one. I've seen them but can't remember where.

WHERE IS CABOOL AND WHAT'S THE NAME OF THE YARD? I NEED PARTS FOR MY 1947 DESOTO SEDAN. Anybody have a passenger side rear fender stainless trim piece???

Would it be better to have Steele re-vulcanize my old upper and lower control arm bumper cores for my Desoto or but NOS bumpers from somebody like Mitchell? Seems to me that rubber that old would be brittle like the disintegrated ones I am replacing.

I just got Kanter's new catalog and they now offer complete weatherstrip kits for most all makes of classic cars. Would be interested to hear a report from anybody who buys one.

Does anybody know if wheel cylinders, rubber parts, etc. are the same from Andy B. to Kanter to Pro Antiques to Roberts, etc. etc.?? I can't believe they all make their own versions. The reason I ask is that if we don't want ANdy B.'s wheel cylinders, are we getting the same thing from Kanter or Roberts? I'm sure they are all Chinese. (Not Andy, the parts!)

I'm looking for three-post terminal blocks for the headlight and front singal lights on my '47 Desoto, as well as the two-post block for other things. Where could I find these? I know that they needn't be original but it would be good if they were.

Has anybody replaced the body to frame rubber mounts one by one? It seems to me - in theory anyway - that if you put the frame up on jacks and then used a hydraulic jack to slightly raise the body frame, you could punch out the old rubber and slide in a new one. Egh?

I'd like some input on whether or not is is beneficial or a pain to apply that rubber undercoating to inner wheel wells, frame, etc. I'm using Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black for a finish all around and did see some of the rubber stuff from the factory when I was stripping things down. However. . . I live on gravel and have to drive about three miles to blacktop. The rubber coating would protect things down there and sound deaden the car, but what a mess to get off if I ever needed to! Does it really sound deaden the inner fender wells that much? How much should one apply? Total covering of the metal? I'd appreciate any views on this or those who have tried it. Thanks.

What is the correct pronounciation of the word coupe? I have heard it pronounced coo-pay as in the old Stan Freeburg record "Green Christmas" where he's dashing through the snow in a fifty foot coo-pay. I also heard an actress say coo-pay on an old movie the other night. Might have been Gloria Swanson in "Sunset Blvd." By the way, the two guys who were going to repossess Bill Holden's car were driving a DeSoto S-11 from the looks of it. Anyway, Chuck Berry was chasing Mabeline in her "Coop DeVille." So which is it?