mjrobinson62

They call them Parade laps, and are controlled by pace cars. But as you go around everyone slows down for the professional photo opportunity. And then you have the opportunity to "catch up" with the pack in front of you. So the limit is kind of up to you. You can pass others just not the pace car. For me with my original 6 cyl. and original steering and ORIGINAL brakes I did not push it to the limit. I think I got it to 75. My father in law saw 100 briefly. It was a blast.

Here is a picture of my Business Coup beating my father-in-law's Chevy around the track at Charlotte......Now for the reality: Yes both cars were on the Charlotte Motor Speedway during the annual fall Goodguys Car show, but they were not there at the same time. We took mine in 2011 and his this year in 2012. The photographer, PhotosportsUSA, superimposed my Plymouth image from last year on to this year's photo. When asked who to put in front my response was "who is going to pay you." I think it turned out great and cant wait to give him a copy at Christmas.

Thanks for the leads will contact them after the storm

Are there any machine shops in mid Atlantic? I am in Virginia but can travel to MD Delaware PA. Seems all the ones I used to know in northern VA are closed. I bought a spare motor for my business coup and want to rebuild it right. Thanks

I am installing "Nu-Relics" power window kit in my 47-P15. I love these units they are direct bolt in replacing the stock regulator. However I am having some difficulty running wires from to the doors. The unit has 3 14 gauge wires plus I am running 4 more because I want the windows to work with my remote entry system. The angle the door swings open seems to prohibit a standard wire loom and their is almost no space between the door and pillar when closed. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

thanks Dave

I thought I was ready to do my first front Brake job on my 47'. But in typical fashion came across something on this car I had not seen before. The shoes appear to be attached to the push rod of the wheel cylinder. It looks like there is a tiny pin through the push rod and through the shoe. Is this how it is supposed to be? My new shoes do not have a hole through them so I assumed that the push rod simply rides in the notch of the shoe like all others I had seen. If it is correct do I have the wrong shoes? Or do I drill and how do I get the old shoe off? I knew I should not have waited until the time I want to drive to get this done. Any info is greatly appreciated.

Great looking car! What is the referece to bringing it to MD? Is there a show? If so when and where?

Never the less it is an interesting idea, salvaging just enough of the bracket to weld on to. Worth investigating. So is the other idea of welding on a new stud. But I am also trying to think long term. So I think I want to attempt to make my own brackets and then tack them back onto the Stainless. I picked up the stainless wire and gas for my mig and I am going to practice on scrap first. I figure the reason that the bracket is not tacked on the top of the grill pieces is so that the little spot welds will not show. I will be using mild steel too but I will treat it so it does not rust once i am done wlding I also it would be good to put a rubber or vinal gasket between the bracket and the body.

WOW I was so focused on bolt pattern offset and look I did not even see the main description. I am looking for something custom like they appear to be. I wonder what makes a wheel a trailer wheel vs a car wheel?

Does the lug nut seat style make a differnce on whether they will fit? i am looking at an alluminum wheel from Summit that says: Lug Nut Seat Style http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRR-W112-5612TC/?image=large

again based on what I saw here...was thinking about 215-75-15. I think

I have tried studing old posts and I think I understand what will fit but I want to double check given the huge non refundible cash out lay. Its kind of like cheating off of someone who has taken the test in the period just before my turn. Did not due it in school but would appreciate the help now. I am looking at buying from Wheel Vintuqes (recomended in previous threads) and it looks like this size will fit my 47' P-15. Once again I very mush appreciate the information! Rim Size: 15 x 6 Bolt Circle: 5-4 1/2 Rear Spacing: 3 3/4

Does anyone have experiece repairing the brakcets that attach the stainless grill pieces on the body? I have accumulated a complete dent free grill set (along with a bunch of extra parts) but on my best set I need to do some bracket and bracket stud repair. I assume that the brakets are not stainless given their deterioration. Has anyone fabricated and attached new brackets? My welding gas supplier says all I need is pure Argon gas and and special mig wire designed to mary stainless and mild steel. Any pointers or suggestions welcome.

After painting the car the grill needs some attention. The previous owner only had the 3 small bars on the car. It did not look so bad when the car was in primer. But now the new paint really draws your eye to the grill area. Luckily I have been accumulating the grill pieces over the last year. But my center upper cap has a dent in it and because of the bracket in the back you can not tap it out from behind. Plus the bracket in the back has separated from the top. Does anyone know of someone who rehabs these stainless parts or has an extra center cap?[/ATTACH]